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randal

Wheel bearing - early life failure?

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Just wondering how common, if it all the above is. I replaced mine a couple of months ago, and now the O/S rear is droning a good un. I'm presuming it's that, unless anyone else has an idea?

 

It's relational to speed, does it in gear or not and is freaking annoying!

 

Also, would knackered rear bushes have any effect on this too? Think they're going to get done soon, so at least jacking the car up for the bearing is worth while :roll:

 

Thanks

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Sorry, I meant that could just need the assembly tightening up.

 

Happened to me I took the hub off again, re greased and put back it together making sure that the bearing was seated correctly then tightened it up and all was well (touch wood). Will be worth just tightening it up first I would have thought..

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Ah ha, damn work cooked my.. ..er.. ...thinking... ...thing. :D

 

Think I'm just going to stick another one on there anyway. They're like 7 quid a pop, so it's not like it's going to break the bank. I just have to last the week doing 100 miles a day with that drone :mad:

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It's worth finding out the torque value for the hub nut, cos it isn't very much at all. It's quite common to over-tighten them (apparently) and that'll bugger the bearing quickly and as Steve says, cause it to drone...

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dinkus, There is no torque value for the rear hub nut - the nut should be less than finger tight.

 

When fitting the rear bearing kits, it's essential that grease is "massaged" into the bearing first - with your fingers. Dry or semi-dry bearings will not last very long at all.

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Rightski, spoke to the branch a minute ago and was told that there is a right way and a wrong way for wheels bearings. Haynes is wrong, VW is right... ...duh.

 

Apparently they need to get re-adjusted after 500 miles. Initially they are tightened until resistance can be felt as you spin the disc - then back off 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn. Then you drive for 500 miles and repeat. Didn't know this.

 

So he said he'd do me a store credit if proved faulty, otherwise it's down to my over zealous tightening. (I said the last bit, not him) :lol:

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I'm having the same problem on my raddo, must be on my 3rd set this year.

 

I've always used the same procedure to tighten them and never had this much trouble, must have changed 20+ sets on Vdubs in my time on my own and friends cars.

 

I leave the caliper off and reattach the wheel then slowly tighten the nut untill there is no play side to side or top and bottom but the wheel still turns freely.

 

I do just like you say stevemac and massage grease into the bearings and put plenty around them but never fill the cavity between the inner and outer bearings.

 

Maybe i need a new bearing supplier.

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I replaced all 4 wheel brgs got them from euro car parts and had them all to replace again after about 1000 miles, which didn't make me to happy. Got replacements from my local motor factors ("premier" brgs supplied) and they've been fine now for a good 10k. My guess is it's all down to shoddy quality brgs! Needless to say euro car parts haven't had any more of my custom. Wa***rs!

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Yep, VW supply SFK bearings and on a 150mph car I wouldn't use anything but genuine parts.

 

I've compared a pair of ECP rear bearing made by Hi-Cap in Japan with the German SFK ones, just spinning it freely on my finger the SFK clearly turns 2 or 3 times more that the Jap rubbish, much less resistance.

 

These parts will probably last a few years on a 1.3 Golf but on a tuned Corrado, stressed with much more speed and heat from brakes etc, No way!

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Supercharged, We sell the SKF (SFK?) bearings too.

 

IMO - the best bearings are made by a German company called FAG.

 

 

Just a note - I used to suffer regular bearing failure on the NSR wheel. Bearing kits used to last approx 3k. Couldn't work out what was wrong, so I replaced the stub axle - no more problems !

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