Crappy Starting and cutting out

[Stan 24v 0]

My VR is a pain to start sometimes. It turns over but doesnt fire. This can last for a while, and sometimes takes 2-3 times of turning over to start. Its had a new coil pack, leads and plugs in the last few months, what else could it be?

 

Also when driving it sometimes cuts out when I put my foot on the clutch. The revs die right off, and it loses power, but other times its ok. Ive adjusted the stopper thingy under the bonnet, and cleaned my ISV but to no avail. Anyone got any ideas?

 

If it helps, my Alt is a bit dodgy. It pulses a bit (can see when lights are on) and also the lights go a bit dimmer when the car isnt moving and brighten up when I get going again.

 

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

Stan :wink:

[Taggart 0]

Mine does the same on idle, seems to want to idle too low from cold, and is OK when it warms up. I'd be interested to hear remedies for this too because I have to slightly depress my pedal on start up.

 

Mine cuts out when I put the clutch down because I forgot to replace my dashpot when I upgraded my TB :oops: Apparently my TB had been adjusted too

[emmafwa 0]

I was just about to post a topic on this. :lol:

 

I have a 16v and mine cuts out when I put my foot on the clutch doesnt seem to matter if the engine is hot or cold, although it doesnt do it everytime, and always starts first time.

 

Some people have suggested that it could be the idle valve or something to do with the throttle? :?

 

I will keep my eye on this to see if anyone has any answers.

 

Emma

[lukeage 0]

I am having the same issue - Mine starts fine, but can sometimes cut out if i dip in the clutch for too long (Every now and then i feel the steering go heavy where its cut out, so i lift the clutch and use that to roll the engine over and fire it back).

 

I have read a few posts mainly suggesting the cleaning out of the ISV, coil pack (does not seem to have made a diff to most).

 

This weekend i am going to have a look at cleaning the ISV and i am also going to lift the plugs out to have a look at there condition. There is a few guides on the CF.net on the ISV so will use them as a reference.

 

My idle is not that great as well - it tends to burp and bump when idling but i have also heard this is a normal behavoir for the VR6.

[StormVR6 0]

I suggest you all get it on VAG-COM, ISV could be the problem, MAF could also, change the fuel filter.

VAG-COM will report most problems.

 

I use to have stalling issues when slowing from high speeds (if I dipped the clutch) a new battery solved that problem. Something people tend to forget about.

[lukeage 0]

I suggest you all get it on VAG-COM, ISV could be the problem, MAF could also, change the fuel filter.

VAG-COM will report most problems.

 

I use to have stalling issues when slowing from high speeds (if I dipped the clutch) a new battery solved that problem. Something people tend to forget about.

 

My next investment is going to have to be a VAG-COM - mine is 93/94 model (Dec 94) so i guess i need to search and find out which connector to use.

 

Battery is new, so that out-rules that one.

[StormVR6 0]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-KKL-for-Audi- ... dZViewItem

 

This is what I have, works perfectly with VAG-COM 409-1 free software.

There are plenty more on ebay, it's not as comprehensive as Kev's full monty kit but will show most faults and allow you to erase them.

You need to make sure yours is the 16pin plug, I'm not sure which models/years had the 2+2 setup.

[vr6storm 0]

crap starting from cold and sometime crap hot starting can also be the coolant temp sensor.........approx £10 for the part(its the ecu one u need btw) and well under 30mins to fit...........if you're nifty with yer hands then you should lose very little coolant when you swap them over....bear in mind to do this on a cold engine tho :wink:

[lukeage 0]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-KKL-for-Audi- ... dZViewItem

 

This is what I have, works perfectly with VAG-COM 409-1 free software.

There are plenty more on ebay, it's not as comprehensive as Kev's full monty kit but will show most faults and allow you to erase them.

You need to make sure yours is the 16pin plug, I'm not sure which models/years had the 2+2 setup.

 

I think i must have the 2X2 connector as mine is a 93/94 - the VAG-COM sticky thread states that the 16 pin was 95 and later.

 

Bummer, i could have shelled out 29 quid's and got one right away.

[StormVR6 0]

Just lift off the gearstick surround (carefully) and take a look at the socket. The two different types are very different.

 

There are both types for sale on ebay, all around the £20-30 mark, even ones which include both types together!

[lukeage 0]

Coolio - I can see the lifting of the gear surround being a lot of fun as is with the rado!

[Stan 24v 0]

VAG-Com'd mine last month, not a problem.???

[vr6storm 0]

VAG-Com'd mine last month, not a problem.???

 

ah but what about this month??? :D

 

 

 

might also be a sign that yer fuel pump aint got much life left in it................mine very rarely used to cut out.........then the fuel pump went 2 years ago and since that was replaced its never cut-out

[StormVR6 0]

might also be a sign that yer fuel pump aint got much life left in it................mine very rarely used to cut out.........then the fuel pump went 2 years ago and since that was replaced its never cut-out

 

Good point, they're not cheap (about £120 IIRC) but if you have no luck otherwise then this is worth a go.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

When is the VR hard to start, cold in the mornings or after a run?

 

When the fuel accumulator starts to jam, hot starting can be a problem.

 

A crank sensor that's losing it's resolution can also cause starting problems.

 

Mine used to cut out regularly and as Roddy found, I replaced the fuel pump recently and it hasn't done it since.

[Stan 24v 0]

Have problems with starting at any time, doesnt have to be hot or cold, and also doesnt happen all of the time.

 

After advice from RW1 yesterday, I tried testing the battery and alt to see whats happening :shock: :shock:

 

Ive had pulsing lights for a while so knew not all was right, but when I checked it with a multi meter, the battery is holding charge about 12.6v, b=and when running it goes up to around 13-13.5v, but when I did the 3000rpm test it shot up to 17.5v!!!!!!! :shock: and the battery is cooking slightly too!!!

 

We managed to work out that it must be the regulator pack that is knackered. Question is.....can you buy them separate to the Alt? Reason I ask is cos the alt was changed about 2-3 months ago, but wondering if they kept the old reg pack on it????

 

Any help welcomed :cry:

[RW1 0]

Just for the record on this topic.

 

12/9/05

 

Stan,

 

Whats the battery like? New? If old it may be past it a little but your alternator perhaps needs checking. The combination could be giving a poorly charged battery. The lights flicking you describe suggest a low charged battery for some reason. It's usually the battery but I don't know the car's history.

 

Cos the battery may be low in volt's, things shut down at about 9.5 - 10.0volts, hence it won't start cos the starter drops the volts to below 9.5 -10.0 volts.

 

The other common culprit to poor starting is a the grey coloured plastic cover version of relay 109 (ECU relay). Black plastic cover relays don't seem to be prone to this one. They are prone to corrosion / cracking of contacts on the inside of the base plate. Open up the relay and check it's clean inside.

 

My view it's the battery but before rushing out and buying a new one. Charge it up if you can. Must go upto somewhere like 14.5 volts after 24 hours on a slow (4 - 6 amp) charge rate. Then leave for 6 hours. See what the voltage settles at. Is Ok if above 12.25 ish volts. Below this it's tired. If 12.0 volts or below, definitely change it.

 

Chris

 

-------------

 

12/9/05

 

Stan,

 

Whiles you are checking the battery, just check with no electrical loads switched on that the battery terminals are sitting at 13.75 to 14.00 volts at idle and the same at 1,500 - 2,000 rpm speed (not speed critical). It shouldn't change.

 

If it does remain a steady voltage across the battery terminals and the battery afterwards checks out OK, then the alternator could be suspect.

 

Cheers

Chris

 

 

 

--------------

13/9/05

 

Hi Stan,

 

I haven’t an ETKA parts list with me. By all accounts the voltage regulator should be available separately but you may find the only option is to buy at the dealers.

 

I doubt the regulator pack being transferred as the new one usually comes with it unless someone swapped it cos they needed it at the garage.

 

It won’t have done the battery any good and the voltages you are seeing are the steady state ones. The dynamic ones will be much higher and there is in the long run probably some battery damage so just keep an eye on things after the alternator is sorted. No need to change but if you can open filler caps, watch the electrolyte levels for 3 months, 1st month weekly after that once a month.

 

It will certainly be your starting problems. It may also sort out the other problems as well. The latter could be because the engine ECU needed to be put through “Basic Settings” procedure, the second part of the ECU reset procedure. Changing the battery now requires you to do the whole procedure in “Knowledge Base”, the second half is badly laid out in the text but there is a thread with it all set out so it can be read here on the second part – Basic Settings, note it is ECU specific in the note at the bottom.

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&start=60

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight=

 

Chris

 

 

.

[Taggart 0]

Cheers RW1, I've got a few bits to try and play with myself now, first I need access to VAGCOM, hoping to find someone over here with it.

 

Seems my car had probs in the past and people have over adjusted the idle screw, so when I put in my new TB there are a few teething troubles.