Oil temps and water temps?

[BarneyVR6 0]

FYI the original Corrado owners manual says "The engine speed should be reduced if the oil temperature rises to 145 degrees C".

 

Suggests that as long as you are using a suitable oil you are fine up to that temp.

[BarneyVR6 0]

On the coolant side of things I find my temp can rise up to 110 degrees before the fan kicks in when I'm just idling but if I raise the revs a bit it kicks in much earlier. As the temperature is being read immediately out of the engine but the fan switch is in the radiator, this suggests that the water isn't being pumped around fast enough at idle which is fine for you only getting up to 102 but for those of us whose temp is getting really high I think one of the water pumps may be on its way out. Only time will tell on that one.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

On the coolant side of things I find my temp can rise up to 110 degrees before the fan kicks in when I'm just idling but if I raise the revs a bit it kicks in much earlier. As the temperature is being read immediately out of the engine but the fan switch is in the radiator, this suggests that the water isn't being pumped around fast enough at idle which is fine for you only getting up to 102 but for those of us whose temp is getting really high I think one of the water pumps may be on its way out. Only time will tell on that one.

 

If the water pump is wearing, the interior heater would be cold at idle and warm up when you drive off. Not a bad job to replace on the G60. A pain in the backside on the VR6.

 

Kev

[StormVR6 0]

Im not sure where you guys are getting your "maximum" oil temps from but my C has got as high as 128 on a hot day while giving it some, I myself was slightly worried at this but upon consulting the C Instruction manual it says "The engine speed should be reduced if the oil temp rises to +145C" Now obviously no one wants to see that kind of temp but I have had no problems due to overheating of the oil and believe me I drive my car very hard at times.

I think regular "quality" servicing and "quality" oil and fuel is all you need.

I am a firm believer in Shell products and I ALWAYS use "Optimax" petrol and Shell's semi synthetic 10w-40 oil (which is cheaper and better than many so-called performance oils).

One thing I will say is that the water temp does get high (esp. on VR6) and I have since had "Samco" hoses installed after a main hoses literally exploded whilst driving (not something you want while motorway driving) and it could have been far more damaging if it was a lower hose and therefore not immediately detectable.

[stevemac 0]

Im not sure where you guys are getting your "maximum" oil temps from but my C has got as high as 128 on a hot day while giving it some, I myself was slightly worried at this but upon consulting the C Instruction manual it says "The engine speed should be reduced if the oil temp rises to +145C" Now obviously no one wants to see that kind of temp but I have had no problems due to overheating of the oil and believe me I drive my car very hard at times.

I think regular "quality" servicing and "quality" oil and fuel is all you need.

I am a firm believer in Shell products and I ALWAYS use "Optimax" petrol and Shell's semi synthetic 10w-40 oil (which is cheaper and better than many so-called performance oils).

One thing I will say is that the water temp does get high (esp. on VR6) and I have since had "Samco" hoses installed after a main hoses literally exploded whilst driving (not something you want while motorway driving) and it could have been far more damaging if it was a lower hose and therefore not immediately detectable.

 

Best lubricating temperature for engine oil is between 95-110 degrees in a road car. Anything over 120 degrees is far too high - your oil will not lubricate correctly and it's condition will deteriorate very rapidly (i.e. need changing much sooner than the service schedule would suggest). The effect of high oil temperatures is that your engine will wear much quicker. I have heard so many stories from VR6 owners complaining about timing chain wear & noisy idling - this is almost always due to bad lubrication caused by heat damaged oil.

 

Racing cars operate at much higher temperatures but they use specialist oil and renew it after each race.

 

The reference to 145 degrees in the handbook is incorrect. (suspected misprint)

 

I have worked in the motor trade for 15 years including 2 years at VWUK and the rest with Mercedes Benz.

[StormVR6 0]

With reference to "Stevemac" I completely agree that the temperatures you stated are indeed optimal temperatures and would think that any car being driven "normally" would register such numbers but under hard driving conditions/hot weather any car will overheat (unless you had a oil cooler the size of kent) but certain cars are built to a certain degree to handle higher temperatures for short periods of time (e.g cheap brake pads/discs cannot handle too much heat without fading whereas more expensive ones are made to withstand extreme temperatures, and in certain cases completely). Refering to engine damage my experience with larger engines being damaged has mainly been due to a combination of cold running (i.e short journies) and cheap oil, also neglect by over-revving (red lining) and holding the engine at high revs for long periods of time. I have tried to irradicate (as much as possible) engine damage with an additive, namely Slick 50 which I hope helps with low and high temperatures. I would be amazed if your G60 didn't overheat on a hard run! Boundaries are there to be broken and it's up to the individual where he/she draws the line!! Also you will find that the Ferrari F1 team use Shell Helix oil as used by myself.

[stevemac 0]

StormVR6 - I agree with what you have posted, mainly.

 

With reference to my G60 project car. Over the last 2 weeks I have pushed this car to the limit on several occasions. I simply cannot make the engine overheat - no matter how hard I drive it (managed to break 2 wheels though). The oil gets a little hotter than I would like - I've seen temperatures of 128 degrees. This is why an oil cooler is now on my "to do" list.

 

You obviously know your racing cars better than I do. I do, however, find it very difficult to beleive that Ferrari F1 cars use the same 10w40 semi-synthetic oil which is also available from your local Shell garage.

[StormVR6 0]

StormVR6 - I agree with what you have posted, mainly.

 

With reference to my G60 project car. Over the last 2 weeks I have pushed this car to the limit on several occasions. I simply cannot make the engine overheat - no matter how hard I drive it (managed to break 2 wheels though). The oil gets a little hotter than I would like - I've seen temperatures of 128 degrees. This is why an oil cooler is now on my "to do" list.

 

You obviously know your racing cars better than I do. I do, however, find it very difficult to beleive that Ferrari F1 cars use the same 10w40 semi-synthetic oil which is also available from your local Shell garage.

The same "Helix" technology is used (base ingredients) in the whole range but I would guess that the grade would be around 0w-50, thin enough not to hinder performance (parts in a F1 car are minute compared to a road car!) but also be able to keep a "steady viscosity" at high/extreme temperatures. Full synthetic oil is no doubt used.

 

Enough of that anyway, I'm quite interested in how you (stevemac) have managed to break the 200bhp mark with your project car, have you used a different supercharger (bolt-on) and how has it affected the overall performance of the engine? Any times (0-60 etc)

[stevemac 0]

I'm quite interested in how you (stevemac) have managed to break the 200bhp mark with your project car, have you used a different supercharger (bolt-on) and how has it affected the overall performance of the engine? Any times (0-60 etc)

 

The car is, unfortunately, still at "project" stage.

 

So far I've fitted a R1 charger, Jabba induction kit, 65mm pulley, Powerflow CAT bypass, Magnex CAT back exhaust & Superchip.

 

I'm currently obtaining all the parts I need to fit a larger, custom built front mounted intercooler & RSR outlet.

3.5bar FPR will be fitted in the next couple of weeks. This will then be followed by a SNS rechip & oil cooler.

Flowed & ported, big valve head will follow maybe early next year.

 

0-60 times are for the Max-Power brigade but when I'm happy with the car I'll be putting it onto a rolling road.

[StormVR6 0]

Magnex CAT back exhaust

 

I was wondering how much you paid for the exhaust as I've seen prices range from about £290-£340 for a "Milltek Sport" exhaust system, but does the CAT come with this as it seems very cheap. I still have the original exhaust on my car but will one day (soon methinks) need a new one and there is no way I'm buying one from VW!

[woody 0]

I had a oil cooler fitted by john (16vG60) at weekend. Driving back i had a max oil temp of 104 degrees at 70mph and 98 degrees in traffic as before i drove it to john the oil was 116-120 degrees which worried me. Bottom line get an oil cooler if you want to keep the car!. John charged £135 including all pipework + fitting and has done a tip top job. I feel much happier now and i am no longer keeping the MFA on oil temp all of the time.

[stevemac 0]

I was wondering how much you paid for the exhaust as I've seen prices range from about £290-£340 for a "Milltek Sport" exhaust system, but does the CAT come with this as it seems very cheap. I still have the original exhaust on my car but will one day (soon methinks) need a new one and there is no way I'm buying one from VW!

 

Can't really comment on the Miltek system as I have no experience of them, although there are several other forum users who have Miltek exhausts fitted. The Magnex that I have was fitted by Jabbasport at the same time as the R1 charger conversion. I paid about £350 for the CAT back system (does not include the CAT). Excellent quality stainless steel system and I would fully recommend it. The tailpipe is oval and very similar in appearance to the original. The CAT bypass pipe cost £60, custom made & fitted from a local Powerflow dealer here in Leeds. My car was registered in February 1992 and so does not legally need to have a CAT fitted.

[DruidicCurse 0]

Back to the coolant levels a minute.

if you are worried about running hot......change the theromstat.

get the lowest one you can find. then get a lower temp fan switch with it that will run your fan a bit more, especially in stop and go traffic it will cool the engine much more.

sounds like you like to "run" the car a bit if you want lower oil temps ........get the bigger oil cooler.

[DruidicCurse 0]

BTW....that was thermostat.......i just cant type