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potatonet

removal of supercharger, what belt size to buy so I candrive

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I've got an update for you mate,i temp. closed the full throttle switch and my car finally lost it's habit of suddenly,briefly losing ALL power and bogging down,i also noticed that when using the O/E G60 chip i'd get a flat spot exactly at 2900rpm,every time in any gear, so i tried another spare digi ECU fitted with an old BBM st.4 chip,same thing,digilag,AFR signal dissapearing off the scale etc,so i tried the same thing using that ECU and all those problems went even when using a modded chipunfortunatly,that switch can only be engauged when the engine's hot.

My head gaskit is fine though,check the wiring within the 02's sensor carefully.

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ok fellas I replaced the headgasket and I need some driving tips, I drove today to work under 3000 rpms and I made it fine, engine was kinda hot though, timing is on I believe. the only problem that I am having is that I dont know how to drive after changing this headgasket.

 

how many rpms is the limit for how long and do I retighten the bolts when I get home? I mean the whole half turn thing isnt really accurate and I need to know so I dont blow this one as well. its copper so its kinda different than a normal headgasket.

 

and the whole sputtering thing presists, right when i turn the car on, ~30 seconds after turn over, the thing sputters and putts, I will take a video and see what I can do to get it on here. its really wierd. Im thinking O2 sensor but its relatively new so I dont know what else to check, maybe a vacuum leak, I have heard that vacuum leaks can cause overheating issues as well, Im thinkin this may be it, once you guys see the video you will understand what I am talking about.

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ok so its running on 3 cylinders when I start the car until I rev it, it wil fix itself if it tries....

 

could all of this be coming from the BTS sender, I replaced the previous one about 10k ago...

 

when driving home tonight, you guys will love this, I let it idle right? it idles okish temp goes up to about 195F, IF I use any gas at all temp just starts climbing its way up to about 220F, I have a 180 degree thermostat and 176 degree fan switch, this shouldnt be happening.

 

I get home, car is warm mind you, take out the timing light, at idle it is 7-8 degrees advance where it should be according to the bentley, Im going to test later today what happens to the timing at higher rpms with the BTS disconnected, the idle just gives a rough estimate, a more precise value would be obtained by revving the car to 2500.

 

IF my valves were off 1 tooth. what would happen?

 

btw Im running LEAN as a mofo and I cant figure it out... about to call the shop....

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I'm no G60 expert, but from reading posts on here primary culprits are:

- lambda

- timing

- vacuum leaks confusing ECU

- thermostat (you sure the rad is cooking too?)

 

erm ..

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thermostat is almost brand new, lambda is being checked today, timing is being checked today, fuel pressure is also being checked today, I dont know how to check for vacuum leaks,

 

does anyone know how to check for vacuum leaks?

 

PS I am filling up my water, quite a bit I might add, almost every time I get into the car, cracked block?

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if you're running that lean that it gets as hot as you say, it sounds to me like a failing fuel pump... Get the fuel pressure tested...

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ok guys, sorry but I ahve to say I am done dealing with this thing, I have scheduled an appointment with the local shop and am taking it in thursday, the copper headgasket didnt seal so I am leaking coolant into the engine and out of the front of the engine. I am going to order a multi layer headgasket and hope it does the job, hopefully it will. im kinda done with dealing with this issue.

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I've experienced the very same thing with the same gasket with H8RRA's VR and he ordered a multi layered metal gasket from EIP and it's spot on, sealing perfectly first time and never flickered since!

 

Oh, and hello potatonet

 

 

Chris

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i was just wondering if you had tried taking an ecu out of a corrado thats running well and swap it in it couldnt hurt. i had driveability problems much like the ones your having and it turned out to be a crack in the vaccum line from the manifold to the ecu. Strange things can happen when the ecu isnt functioning properly (i.e. lean condition)

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I still reckon that a new VAG G60 head gasket and a full engine setup/timing session will sort all of your problems Potato... 8)

 

I don't rate copper head gaskets myself for use on G60s as they just don't seem to seal properly from what I've heard... :|

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thats correct cause I had 2 and they both didnt seal correctly, I have a shop putting in a new G60 headgasket and timing it right now.

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got my car back today, HAHA only 3 days more than it should have been. I DROVE THE CAR UP A HILL AND THE TEMPERATURE WENT DOWN! OMG IT WORKS!

 

only problem I have now is the idle being erratic, and the backfiring/no power issues. I belive that the AFR gauge I have is pulling 2 much juice from the AFR and is causing messy signals in the ECU, AFR comes off this weekend unless someone can give me a reason not to.

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something like that Supercharged, I am checking to see how much I actually lose to the AFR itself, other than that the car screams like a bat out of hell and I

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if I feel vibrating everywhere, pedals, steering wheel, somewhat on the shifter, seat, when I accelerate, which engine mount is fried?

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Front mount most likely, the engine lifts at the front under acceleration.

Lift the bonnet, hold the brakes on and gently lift the clutch in 1st gear to see how much movement there is ..

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my engine lopes at idle once I get the revs up I get some decent power, but starting off the line is slower than shiot. I press the gas in 4th gear at 2000 rpms and my engine starts jumping, this happens in all gears if my revs arent high enough, before it just did nothing. now it jumps. also I backfire some pretty decent sized flames says my friend. o2 sensor wire maybe?, o2 sensor is semi new so I know its not that.

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