Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
White2505

engine size??

Recommended Posts

Not sure if this is in the right place!

 

just bought a 1.8 16v C

 

bloke "said" it had been bored out to a 2.0 and had high lift cams fitted

he's also fitted (cos I can see it!) a superchips iconrace ignition computer

she's a little rough when cold but idles nice when warm, also is a little sluggish at low revs but goes well higher up the rev range.

Just to throw a red herring in MFA shows mpg as about 12 regardless of how I drive.

 

so questions are as follows.

Anyway to easily confirm the engine displacement without taking the head off?

 

anyone got any experience of the superchips icon race module? is it bu**ering up the ignition timing or necessary upgrade? (I'll probably take it off at least temporarily to see if it makes any difference!!)

 

rough cold idle, symptomatic of fault with WUR or evidence of high lift cams?

 

The Journey begins!!

Cheers

Whitey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

rough idle is typical of a race-cam'd engine, generally they're pretty poor to drive about town since the cams arent designed for that type of driving, doesnt apply to all cams though.

 

also is a little sluggish at low revs but goes well higher up the rev range.

 

thats the valver engine for you! they go better when you thrash them! ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as dazzy says, they were originally fitted to bikes however in the states they have been fitting them to corrado race cars apparantly.

the unit interupts the ignition timing signal and 'remaps' it to the one installed in the unit.

personally I suspect it's a bit of a gimmick as I fail to see how anything like this could work without it being mapped specifically to the vehicle on a rolling road but was hoping someone on here may have had some experience with this module.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well this morning I have mostly been........

chiselling of the old rotor arm which had melted itself to the distributor arm and fitted a new one and new distributor cap.

Suspect this may have something to do with the iconrace module as this surely can't be normal so I have taken off the icon race module to see if it improves the running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nope this was definately in early stage of melting, I actually broke the old rotor arm getting it off where it had gone so brittle. If it was glued, god only knows what with!

I ended up having to clean up the distributor shaft with some emery paper as there was what looked like carbon scoring on the outside of the shaft where the residue of rotor arm/glue?? was stuck to the shaft.

 

it's now nice and smooth and shiny as Mr VW intended and the rotor arm slides on and off as you would expect.

 

It could of course just be me wanting it to sound better to make me feel better about the expense and effort but I'm certain she sounds a bit healthier ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's still the original rotor arm, it will have been bonded on with black resin.

 

All you need to do is crush the bakelite rotor arm with pliers and it'll fall off. Bakelite will not 'melt' onto the rotor arm spindle. No need to chisel anything and the centre bearings won't thank you for that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'd be amazed if it was an original rotor arm on a 15 year old car,

but as you say looks like it mey well have een glued.

unfortunately so much glue that it was impossible despite crushing, pulling, pushing, swearing, more pushing then it snapped.

which shows how much force was being applied without it budging at all!

 

why did they need to glue it on, it has a perfectly acceptable mechanical interferance fit without the need foe added gunge??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early Golf 16Vs suffered a problem whereby the centrifugal forces were throwing the rotor arm off the shaft, so VW glued them on as a precaution!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

okay that makes sense now, the rotor arm has a spring within the recess that holds the arm on the shaft so I think i'll give the glue a miss. I could'nt believe how difficult it was to get it off. I was seriously concerned about damaging the dizzy.

They must have used almost a teaspoon full of glue!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...