Guest Posted November 8, 2005 cheers markmcie - I'll be breaking open several piggy banks so! Better to do it now rather than trawling ebay.de for a charger later I reckon. I'll check my boost tonite but the cheap gauge the previous owner installed shows about 10-12PSI around the redline - Its allegedly a ported and pullied one so thats probably not bad but like all secondhand G60's - I have no way of knowing for sure what state its in. A stitch in time and all that. Also, VST over on the VAGE.ie forum knows his G60s (he has a small collection onf them and he's in the trade so I'd heed his advice more than most) reckons you need to do the key on the crank pulley at the same time but I never see much mention of it here - anyone ever heard any horror stories about it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60IRL 0 Posted November 8, 2005 Well I talked to G-Werks today and he said send it over and he will look at it. If it neads a rebuild he will do it and if not he wont charge anything. Cant ask for fairer than that. I will probably get a 68mm pully put on at the same time anway tho and as strange_one says "a stich in time". Aside from that the guy who found the Corrado for me is back from holidays tomorro so i am going to try to get some thruth out of him about whether the charger was reconditioned or not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted November 8, 2005 The crank pullies are known to fail. It happened on my Passat syncro. Usually occurs after the crank bolt snaps or comes loose. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 9, 2005 Checked my boost last night - 1980 at the redline in third. I don't hink thats too bad (supposedly ported and pullied) but will still plan to rebuild over the Crimbo. Am going doing the timing belt at the same time so might put in a new key and bolt on the crank pulley. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markmcie 0 Posted November 9, 2005 Thats a quite good boost reading you have there. They say lower then 1500 your looking at a rebuild. If you do a search for the crank pully you will find a few threads about the bolt sheering, timing getting knocked out and the result being the crank pully has come loose and the key is worn out meaning a new crank needed i.e. bottom end stripped and new crank fitted. For piece of mind it well worth replacing this bolt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markmcie 0 Posted November 9, 2005 This is what you should be checking your boost readings against. Thinks its originaly from vwvortex. Are you runing the standard IC. With a bigger IC the boost readings will dropa little. EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted November 9, 2005 If the crank pulley has moved, that could affect boost readings.. Certainly fitting lumpier cams does. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 10, 2005 I have to run this test on my car. One question though. Does the test have to be run under load (ie whilst driving) or will it work when just reving the car whilst stationary - or is this a bad idea? Cheers Dusty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markmcie 0 Posted November 10, 2005 You will need to be driving. 3rd of 4th gear will give the best readings. So try find a nice quiet straight road :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites