ABS FAULT CODE

[gollfy 0]

Abs light comes on after pulling off, plugged on and got the following fault code

 

00267 ABS OUTLET VALVE, FR-N100

 

Any idea's on where to start

[dr_mat 0]

Valve errors usually point to problems in the valve block. Could also be wiring, but seems unlikely.

[gollfy 0]

Do you suggest a new abs pump, I have checked connector that goes on to pump and its ok>

[dr_mat 0]

The full procedure includes testing all the wiring and so on, but when mine did this it was (of course) the ABS block (which includes the pump). £1200 from VW ... £25 from a breaker.

 

They are usually quite reliable, so you are unlikely to stumble on another broken one. Supply outstrips demand.

[gollfy 0]

Thanks for the advise :)

 

Have to give it go, does not look an easy job to swop though :cry:

[dr_mat 0]

Errr... watch out mate, the book says you should turn the ignition off and pump the brake pedal twenty times .. the brake fluid pressure inside the pump unit is enough to cut your hand off if a stream bursts out when you disconnect a hose ...!!

[larkin 0]

sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but im about to replace my faulty abs pump/valve unit with a replacement one from ebay..

 

anyone got any advice on how to remove the old pump and bleeding the replacement safely/correctly?

 

is it possible to plug the new pump into the cars wiring loom before installing it to test that it is working correctly via vag without damaging it?

[larkin 0]

bump, any tips for replacing the abs pump/valve unit?

[dr_mat 0]

Dunno mate, never done it. Suggest you check out the Haynes book for a Golf Mk3 GTi/VR6 ABS-equipped car, there will be nothing different about the Corrado VR6 ABS system.

[larkin 0]

dont have the haynes for the mk3 only the mk2 and passat, oh well

thanks anyway dr_mat!

 

found this general abs repair guide on google that might help, also says to pump the brakes to depressurise the system

http://webtools.delmarlearning.com/sample_chapters/3520P-09.pdf

[Critical_Mass 10]

First of all id be tempted to bleed all the brakes, if what Dr_mat said is the case - that the fluid could cut your hand off. That fluid needs to go anyway. MAy as well do it in a more clean way.

[larkin 0]

i would think all 4 brakes would need to be bled alright..

 

would that mean i would be emptying the reservoir / master cylinder etc also. i hear these are a pain to bleed if air gets in.. last time i changed the fluid i just bled all 4 brakes and kept topping up the reservoir to avoid this..

 

maybe there is a way to depressure the pump via pumping the brakes and then clamp the lines from the master cylinder before disconnecting any lines? or would i be better off bleeding the entire system dry to avoid a mess..

[Critical_Mass 10]

i would think all 4 brakes would need to be bled alright..

 

would that mean i would be emptying the reservoir / master cylinder etc also. i hear these are a pain to bleed if air gets in.. last time i changed the fluid i just bled all 4 brakes and kept topping up the reservoir to avoid this..

 

maybe there is a way to depressure the pump via pumping the brakes and then clamp the lines from the master cylinder before disconnecting any lines? or would i be better off bleeding the entire system dry to avoid a mess..

 

I had this problem after i had take the calipers off and then back on. I bled all the calipers in the correct order. I bled the master cylinder (the nipple is under the brake fluid reservois, just in case you didnt realise). Theres also a nipple on the top of the gear box, assuming its for that, can anyone clarify that? No fluid came out of that anyway before i realised it could be for the gear box :?

 

Since then, the brakes have never felt quite right. They're still a tad soft. :(

[larkin 0]

i think depending on the abs system you have there are different bleed procedures, for some of the teves systems you need to cycle the abs pump via VAG COM.

I dont think this is the case with the Teves IV that i have...

 

have also seen posts mentioning after you bleed to go for a drive slam on the brakes on gravel or whatever to activate the pump and then rebleed the 4 wheels to remove any additional air than may have been in the pump...

 

feel free to correct me if im wrong as this is based just on what ive been reading on the forums! havent replaced my pump yet so will let you know

 

anyone know if i can remove the pump without draining the master cylinder?

[Neil VR6 0]

Thought I'd throw my 2p worth in. I've got 2 intermittant faults on my ABS. One's a b-voltage (sp) or something like that relating to the power and another's the actual valve unit. My ABS light comes on and goes off at randon - very odd. I was told by JMR that if the brakes aren't bled for ages that you can get tiny bits of crud trapped in the valve unit which is made up of very narrow capillaries and this is enough to trip an error. I had the brakes pressure bled and flushed through and the problem's still there.

[larkin 0]

this is somthing else ive found on my google trawls...

 

http://www.geocities.com/e36rulz/ABSRep ... ption.html

 

its relating to the 3 series bmw but seems to be teves IV also.. seems that the wiring on the valve block is repairable if your not afraid to do a little soldering.

[alemay 0]

Hi All,

 

For what it's worth a couple of years ago I had a similar problem with the faults showing up on the ABS. To cut a long story short it turns out to be a ribbon cable fault within the ABS unit. I had the unit removed and an auto-electrician bypassed the ribbon cable. Hey presto... no faults.

 

Andy

[larkin 0]

hey alemay, cheers for that.. yea i think that may be the problem with my own pump, that link in my previous post outlines the procedure for the teves IV in the beemer..

 

i might try that first before i replace my own as the replacement pump i got on ebay has a broken fluid line where it enters the pump, aaargh :sad:

 

anyone know if its possible to use my valve block off the new unit with the pump part of my old unit.. the top and bottom seems to be attached with 3 long torx screws, im afraid to open it up though in case theres seals or gaskets between thepump and valve parts that i wont be able to replace..

[alemay 0]

Hi Larkin,

 

IGNORE BELOW - THEY CAN'T HELP

 

I've found a place that will sort out the ecu and provide a 2 year guarantee. I'm going to remove mine and send it to them. They take 2-3 days to turn it around and only charge £100 + postage and packing. They say that 99% of them are ecu problems, well probably the ribbon cable, hence the price!

 

Check out http://www.ecutesting.com they are based in Nottingham. V.friendly and seem to know what they are doing.

 

Hope this helps

 

Good luck

 

Andy

[alemay 0]

So it turns out that ecu-testing CAN'T fix the 1995 Corrado VR6 ABS. So..... I took the unit off and carefully worked out where all the connections for the ribbon cable should go. Cut the offending ribbon cable off and rewired all the wires to the plug. A delicate and tricky job but it worked!! If anyone would like pics and a description drop me a line!

 

In hindsight it is probably not necessary to cut off all the wires but to just bypass a couple. Bloody tricky to find the cracks in the cable though.

 

Andy

[larkin 0]

hey andy a couple of pics would be great if you had them handy, im gonna be doing the same as soon as I get a chance..