bighairymuppet 0 Posted November 13, 2005 please read later post in this thread thanks :roll: soz could not find straight answers to help using search. no spark / starting issues 1.8 16v :( batterys ok. compression is good engine is turning over. no spark/ not starting first time. can someone please list logical steps for diagnosis bearing in mind the batt is ok have even tried giving boost. Also note was starting first time , then took few attempts to start but once started ran fine. Now no spark? (have taken ht lead and spark plug out to check if spark across plug). Need help on where to go from here? ________________________________ My car is being such a twisted *******. :mad: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billinjah 0 Posted November 13, 2005 check the permanent live to the distributer thats what mine was it had fallen out of the fuse box so i ran one direct from the battery. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted November 14, 2005 Check the black wire on the coil to be 12 volts when ignition is on. (Battery means the coil is always powered, battery drain!) Otherwise I'd suspect the Hall Effect Sender has gone in the distributor. They sometimes go intermittantly first but they can just give up the suddenly. Plenty of 16v distributors going on Ebay. Hall Effect Senders can be bought & fitted separately but the VAG price ain't cheap. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted November 14, 2005 thanks for the help will be testing ahoy once i get some goodish weather. Please refer to my wanted list if anyone can help. on the main list is a cheap coil , newish leads, and now possibly a hall sender. (will be buying a new dizzy cap for all the cost). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Heath 0 Posted November 15, 2005 Look on e-bay mate, theres always plenty of 16v stuff on there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted November 28, 2005 ok now i had the opportunity to do some work and testing. new plugs, dizzy cap rotor arm (wanted to do this anyway). new coil. runs a beaut once started but still having starting issues def points to hall sensor but how do you change these. mate at a garage says fitting a new distributer would take no time at all compared to replacing hall sensor. any ideas and any ideas on prices thanks guys... ive tried the search. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
White2505 0 Posted November 28, 2005 IIRC someone the other day was saying hall sender was about £30 ebay has had new complete distributors for under £50 recently Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 4, 2005 got new dizzy changing this soon. will update once changed. thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 13, 2005 ok dizzy changed no difference so not hall sensor :mad: :cry: :cry: so to recap have changed: full dizzy, coil, spark plugs , battery all ok. Earth has changed and checked. have also changed fuel pump a while back. symptoms: doesn't start properly takes a few extended go's( No action on rev dial at times). starter motor and engine turns, appears to be no spark fueling seems to be ok. Does not matter whether its cold or warm. Once started will restart immediately if stopped and started soon after. Once started does not hunt or stall behave abnormally at all. drives completeley fine with full power once started only thing ive noticed is that on my mfa the best mpg ive had is 24.5 - 26mpg recently???? argh!!! please help im really stuck and now i need my car more than ever due to work. btw permanent live where does that run form the coil? thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robbymac 0 Posted December 13, 2005 i have this problem with mine i have changed many thing luckly i have a spare engine to change bit over from but still aint found it i am going to look over christmas when car comes back from spray shop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 14, 2005 keep us updated robbymac and ill do the same. any ideas guys???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chubbybrown 0 Posted December 14, 2005 Knackered ignition amplfier that stupid thing that sits up by the ECU somebodys bound to have a spare and they fit all sorts of cars as well as corrados audi 80 etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 15, 2005 is it on the same mount at the ecu on the bottom? i have a nother ecu (i hope) assuming it fits its form a kr 1.8 16v gti golf. Part num 811 907 384b. anyone any ideas whether this will fit and if the amp is part of it? thanks guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psykokid 0 Posted December 16, 2005 the igniton amplifier (ICU/ICM are other names for it) is pictured attached to the same bracket as the knock sensor computer (upper right in the photo) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
White2505 0 Posted December 16, 2005 I have a spare ignition amplifier from a 1.8 16v. pm me if youre interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 17, 2005 There is one mounted on the bottom of the ecu that i have from a mk2 golf gti. yee hah! :) changing it tommorow gonna be a bitch though. anyone any ideas the best way to get the ecu and mounting plate out. Looks awkward! thanks guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
White2505 0 Posted December 18, 2005 its a fiddle! the plate should slide towards the nearside to clear the mounting lugs then with judicious wiggling you should be able to pull it from underneath the scuttle. make sure you disconnect all the cables first as this makes it much easier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 26, 2005 update: Changed ign amplifier and cleaned isv whilst i was at it. started on 3 turns first try then started first go thereafter. Tried same again after leaving to cool for an hour. started around 3 turns and then started first time thereafter. It seems to start on the "return" (ie when you let go of the key. I have another ecu is it worth trying this? timing?? also whats the grey dial on the side of the ecu adjust? any ideas? thanks for help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chubbybrown 0 Posted December 26, 2005 Cant help you anymore,My prob was knackered ign amp,but wouldnt start at all ! This hall sender on distributor seems a likely candidate,also I replaced the coil as they aint that steep anyway. Dont buy a new ign amp,they are cheap as chips 2nd hand ,I paid £30 in a hurry for one and paid £8 for a new one,so bide your time if you dont need it. Is it ok once its started ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psykokid 0 Posted December 26, 2005 i know this may seem like a shot in the dark, but what shape is the electrical part of your ignition switch in? seen lots of wierd stuff go on because it was on its way out.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted December 26, 2005 ign switch seems ok but no idea how to check. ignition amp , coil dizzy with hall and plugs all changed. once started runs fine may be using more fuel though as according to msf im getting 25mpg. im officially stuck but going to check timing anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted January 1, 2006 Any more updates? My car packed in today for the first time in two years. It turns over but fails to fire on any cylinder. Unfortunately I only had 30 minutes of light when the problem reared its ugly head so I only had a chance to check the coil, TCI-H unit, FEI control unit and feeds to/from the Hall sender. All of those check out fine. The car usually starts almost instantly so it was a real surprise when it failed to start today. My problem seems to point to the Hall sender as it's about the only component I haven't tested. It's also a component I don't have a spare for. According to the VAG ignition system workshop manual, the Hall sender can be tested using a diode test lamp....which I don't have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted January 1, 2006 no updates as yet been too busy with christmas an all. my car though will start eventually and then run fine. ill keep you updated when im on it again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted January 2, 2006 Likewise. Hopefully I'll have mine up and running tomorrow....famous last words! It's easier to find a problem if its a permanent one after all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighairymuppet 0 Posted January 3, 2006 Its taking so many times to try and start my car i can tell its trying to eat the starter motor. Hence me pre-empting this and getting a new one if poss just in case. pity its not that thats the prob though!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites