Starting and idling problems

[catch_twotwo 0]

Ok ever since I've got it back from the bodyshop and it sat doing nothing for 2 weeks, starting the cars been a little flaky... The bodyshop basically ran the battery down totally, but that was fine as I needed a new one. So on Saturday got a new Varfis (I think) battery that was uprated from the one in the car. Fitted and seemed fine....

 

However whenever I start the car it turns over and starts, then a second later just dies again.... Usually it's fine on the second try, but today it took 4 times to get it to turn over. When it starts to cut out, if you apply slight gas it just cuts out quicker like it's overfueling. Also I'm getting an irregular idle which might be connected. It idles fine, then drops to a level where it's almost going to stall, then recovers. This only takes about 2/3 seconds, but happens on and off. Finally I've always had the problem of the revs raising without me putting my foot on the accelerator. When at lights it sometimes clicks up to 2000 revs a few times then goes back to normal...

 

I know I need to replace the knock sensor as mines damaged, but any other thoughts on what might be causing this strange behaviour ? It's in for a cambelt/tensioners/PAS belt tomorrow so might be a good time to get this sorted if I can find what it is.....

[Andy D 0]

Could try cleaning the isv out and put a coolant temp sensor on. Could be a lot of things have you checked all tha basic like cap and arm make sure there is no damp in there?

[catch_twotwo 0]

At this point it might be worth mentioning that I know less about engines than the average girl... ;)

 

ISV I can check though... can you expand on the other points ?

[g60greeny 0]

don't know if its any good... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... e+stalling

[Andy D 0]

Ok On the front of the cylinder head there is a black plastic flange it has the top hose for the radiator doing to it. Also it has one black sensor one blue sensor on the top of the flange with wires coming off them. The blue one is the ECU cooling temp sensor this send a signal to the ecu (the brain) so the correct mixture (air/fuel strength) of fuel is injected into the engine i.e. a sort of choke. These sensor can go wrong causing all sorts of problem like bad cold/warm starting high MPG and other straight running faults. There not to expensive from GSF think about £6 or so. Right next on the engine near the inlet manifold you should see a round like cylindrical valve that control you idle when hot or cold and keeps the idle nice and even. If you remove the valve by undoing the two jubilee clips holding the two breather pipes on both ends and unclip the multi plug with wire coming off. You can then slide the rubber hanger and valve off the mount BE CARFUL NOT TO SPLIT THE RUBBER MOUNT its not the end of the world if you do. Next you will need some carburettor cleaner squirt the clean down the end of the valve and you will see lots of dirt come out. Keep doing it for about 30 second from both ends. Then get some rag and hold the valve it and shack it about to get any excess out of the valve. Then refit the valve and see if it has helped. I'll post pic if i cam get the forum to except my pic

[catch_twotwo 0]

Thanks for the help there guys.... as soon as I can get the car and some daylight I'll give those things a try.

[catch_twotwo 0]

Ok while it was in the garage for my cam I got the guys to clean out the ISV (I've got no time right now).

 

Started first time when I picked it up.... then again I thought it might have just been stil warm. So went for a drive and no idling problems. Stop and started a few times at people houses as I did the rounds and worked wonderfully.

 

Thanks for the hints on this.... much appreciated.