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1.8T engine in a VR6

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My VR engine is begining to show signs of its age and mileage now. I was thinking unless i found a replacement engine with low miles i may swap for a 1.8t. Question is i've seen loads of G60 with this conversion but not seen a vr, now does the 1.8t engine fit either subframes?, if not does that mean that i got to change wishbones and all the rest of the stuff from a g60

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Either go for the 24v or go for the stealth package of fully rebuilt head new chains and tensioners and clutch £1450 all in. Should bring her back up to speed!

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I think 24v route is the best bet - I know when the day comes for mine to need a major rebuild, there will be a whole new engine going in.

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It is my understanding the the 1.8t engine are a load of dump. Go for the 20VT or as Phat said a 24v. You may also consider a Briggs and Straton 3hp lawn mower engine. Very good power-weight ratios!

 

1.8T and 20vt are the same thing mate!

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If you've got a VR already I would get the engine rebuilt and keep the character of the beast, there won't be many around with all these engine conversions going on!

 

If you had a valver or a G60, I'd say throw in a R32 or 4motion lump in

 

Otherwise sell your car and get one with a good engine, the cost should be cheaper

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I have to agree stick with some sort of v6. Anything else would spoil the character of the car. Plus they sound absolutely gorgeous.

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The only time I'd recommend refurbing the 12V is if you have a particular liking of it, want to keep the car original as an investment or can't be arsed with conversions.

 

I'd always go 24V over any other VAG engine and the 1.8T is the only 4 cylinder I'd consider.

 

A Briggs and Stratton motor is way too classy and powerful for any VW though....

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this is my engine it the moment

Picture007.jpg

 

i was going to rebuild it but have now got hold of an engine with 46k miles on it :)

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I do like the 1.8t, it's an impressive engine, but I would not replace a VR6 with one. If you had a valver, then yes, but you've gotta stick with a 6 cylinder.

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It is my understanding the the 1.8t engine are a load of dump. Go for the 20VT or as Phat said a 24v. You may also consider a Briggs and Straton 3hp lawn mower engine. Very good power-weight ratios!

 

1.8T and 20vt are the same thing mate!

 

My bad, i thought they were different. I feel a little stupid now. :roll:

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Am I right in assuming the 24v lump is the 3.2l v6 from an R32? Must be expensive - how much for the lump and all necessary parts for the conversion and fitting? A 3.2 should be pretty interesting in the light weight frame plus it should have (if I'm right 230ish bhp?) If the price is not too expensive go for that over any 4 cylinder lump. Otherwise go for the rebuild at Stealth. At the end of the day with a high miler it's not normally the VR engine that goes wrong but all the parts around it!

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The 24V can be a 2.8 (4Motion Bora/Golf) or a 3.2 from the R32.

 

The 2.8 is 204hp and the R32 is about 236 odd in MK4 flavour, but VW later updated the ECUs on them which took power to just under 250 IIRC.

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Its costing me £1100 for a new engine, and £1400 to get it fitted (including diagnosis and removal of my VR) mate. So weigh up the options.

 

Are you going to remove/refit the engine yourself?

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Its costing me £1100 for a new engine, and £1400 to get it fitted (including diagnosis and removal of my VR) mate. So weigh up the options.

 

Really, that sounds like a bargain, before I started messing around with my valver I spoke to quite a few people about gas flowed heads and cams, they were all trying to persuade me to go for a 1.8t transplant, which they would do for around £4K-£5K about 2 years ago.

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Its costing me £1100 for a new engine, and £1400 to get it fitted (including diagnosis and removal of my VR) mate. So weigh up the options.

 

Are you going to remove/refit the engine yourself?

 

You have got yourself a deal there matey! thats very good!

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Yeah that is a very good price. If Stealth were to rebuild the top and bottom ends of the 12V for you, it would cost £2800 fitted plus VAT....so it really does make sense to go 24v! It costs £2300 fitted to rebuild just the block on the 12V. The parts are quite expensive.....and 2 days of £40 p/h adds up too.

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If you stick a 24V in don't you need to weld a new firewall in like Jay Renshaw did, or was that more by choice to get Mk4 pedal box working. I'd be quite happy with the mechanical and electrical aspects but I'm not into welding....yet

Is there a definitive guide anywhere as to exactly what needs changing to get the 24V in.

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