The-Mortman 0 Posted January 5, 2006 The aux drive belt tensioner (alternator belt) has a habit of making some lovely noises on occasion. I thought it might be the alternator on the way out but after listening I figure its the tensioner. Parts are 70quid (ECP) but how much of a headache is the replacement process? Anyone done it and fancy giving me a blow-by-blow account? I'm no pro when it comes to automotive mechanics so let me know if you think its owrth me doing it or paying for someone else to worry about it? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GIXXERUK 0 Posted January 5, 2006 http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.p ... ley_repair just fit a new bearing mate , i did mine , probably took about an hour tops i didnt bother taking the whole tensioner off , i just took the pulley off and you can get the new belt on without taking the wheel off :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 5, 2006 Yep, easy job on a VR but you'll need a M8 bolt to release the tension then just undo the 3 bolts holding it on, check all the pulleys before fitting the new belt... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted January 5, 2006 I did it over the Christmas holidays and it's straightforward. As GIXXERUK says, you don't need to take the tensioner itself off. Just take out the air box, release the spring tension with an M8 bolt and undo the bolt that holds the pulley itself (it's a left-hand thread). Print off the guide from the Knowledge Base - it is excellent. It's a bit tedious scraping the rim of the pulley boss to get the bearing out, but it is fairly soft material; use a good sharp Stanley knife and wear some thick leather gloves in case it slips. I tapped the old bearing out with a suitable socket, and the new one in the same way. The bearing came from SimplyBearings (look them up on the Internet), for less than £4 including next day delivery by 1st class post. Bearing size is 6203-2RS. The whole job will take less than 2 hours. The old bearing was well-and-truly worn and very noisy; with a new one peace was restored. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The-Mortman 0 Posted January 5, 2006 All thanks for the info, the guide should be easy to follow Roger, the part number you gave, it matches a bearing costing over £10 on the simplybearings website, based on your post I assume this is not the correct one?! Are there any numbers missing of that part code? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted January 5, 2006 I ordered the 62032RSR, which is sufficiently specified for this application I think - about £3. I will confirm this later. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted January 6, 2006 I can't find a specific reference to the designation 6203-2RSR, but the 6203 bit means that it is the right size and load rating, 2RS means it has double rubber seals. The one I took off was designated 6203 , so the size and load rating correspond with the original. As "Simply Bearings" guarantee that all their goods are of a reputable manufacture, I went for the less costly option. It fits, it works. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 23, 2007 I just bought a tensioner to polish up and fitr to my engine bay. Replaced the bearing as per the Wiki, which i must say is a very straightforward and worthwhile "service". The old bearing was ok, but of unknown mileage so best to replace. I've used an NSK bearing which was about £6. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites