marcpw 0 Posted August 24, 2003 Help!! My Corrado (2.0 16v) has just been through it's first MOT and service and has come out worse than it went in!! In the six months (and 10,000miles) that i have owned the car i haven't had a single problem with it - then the day after it's service it broke down twice. The first time i was driving in the outside lane of the motorway and the second time i was doing about forty - both times the revs just dropped out and the car spluttered a lot. At first the car won't start but after a short break it will just start again and be fine! I took it back into the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it but i don't really trust them very much!! Any ideas as to what could be wrong? Cheers Marc mailto:[email protected] P.S - Rear right ABS sensor has gone - is this easy to change? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 25, 2003 Where did you get the service done? and what service was it, IE what did they change - may give you a clue... plugs, leads etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
capnahab 0 Posted August 25, 2003 this used to happen to my gf's seat ibiza 1.2. She'd be driving along normally, and the revs would just drop without warning. Pull over and wait 30 seconds and it'd restart fine. Im sorry to say I dont kno wwhats causing this, but shes now bought a Corrado 16v and looking to sell the Seat, so at least something good has come out of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted August 25, 2003 I've seen this on older cars too. Check all the 'lectrics. Mainly the distributor, if you've got one.. And when you say "cut out" do you mean the engine was actually lifeless (as if no spark or turned off), or do you just mean it stopped pulling..? Dirty dizzy can cause the latter, dodgy immobiliser is the most likely prognosis of the former. Meanwhile, my lovely VR6 once again killed it's battery while I was away for 3 weeks. Great. Hello, Mr RAC man. Again. We're on first name terms now... To make it worse, we had the technology - we had jump leads, but the "donor" car - a 1.4 Peugeot 206 simply didn't have enough AMPS to turn over my V6 lump!! :( Tip for the rest of you tho - if trying to jump from a weaker car, try charging your own battery from the other car (running, obviously) for about ten minutes or so - this charge, combined with the current from the donor car, should be enough to turn over your own car. The VR6 needs around 150-170 amps to turn over correctly, apparently.. Scary, I'd say.. Anyway... I digress. As usual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcpw 0 Posted August 26, 2003 Thanks all who have replied - here are the answers to some of your questions!! They didn't change anything at the service and they said that they didn't tinker with anything either! I have had a play with the distributor and the power cable was definitely loose but it still doesn't feel right now! It doesn't seem to have all that much power and seems noisier than normal! :? I came across another problem at the weekend - i was changing the rear brakes (discs and pads) but couldn't loosen the bolts (alan key head) that hold on the carrier? any ideas of how best to loosen these as there isn't much room to play with! Also they seem to need a 7.5mm key - isn't this a bit of an unusual size?? Finally does anyone know where i can find replacement bolts in case i have to destroy them to get them off! Cheers all Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 26, 2003 They didn't change anything at the service and they said that they didn't tinker with anything either! Who the hell did your service?? - Volkswagen! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2cc 0 Posted August 28, 2003 Hi Marc, The rear calliper carrier bolts are a swine to get off, not long ago did my rear discs. Be prepared to spend time on them and lots of wd40. The only tips I can offer are: make sure you clean up the inside of the bold head as much as you can to the allen key goes in as deep as possible; fabricate some means of extending the allen key (make sure a good fit or it will slip) to give you as much leverage as possible; get a mate to repeatedly hammer the edge of the carrier (carefully - the vibrations will help to break the bolt free) while you are exerting pressure on the allen key; when it does let go it will be very sudden - I had a bruised elbow for weeks afterwards coz it hit the ramp VERY hard. Take care with this as it is easy to hurt yourself. You could always take it to the garage and ask them to break the lock for you then go home and do the job yourself. Get 4 new bolts from VAG - they are very cheap and it's not worth reusing the old ones. Or plan B is to grind/file flats on the heads and use a spanner - also time consuming as hardly any room to work. Have fun & let us know how you get on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Majik 0 Posted August 28, 2003 Ok so if the igntion side of things have been checked than i'd say check the fuel pump relay sometimes these can have bad connections and give problems intermittently. like my no 18 relay has a buzzing sound every now and then and the heater/sunroof stop working. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stephan 0 Posted September 18, 2003 My VR6 behaved exactly the same way. Replacing all the little vacuum hose connections (about seven of 'em) around the engine, followed by resetting the ECU solved it. - The ECU goes to weird settings to try and compensate for the wayward readings it is getting from the leaky vacuum connections. Stephan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
