Both rear wheel bearings of gone MORE HELP NEEDED!

[Not_Aircooled_or_Taxfree 0]

Hello! Both of my rear wheel bearings have decided to die on me (3-4mm travel through the wheel and alot of noise) so I am off to get some more from GSF. But before I do I am wondering about the fact that BOTH bearings have gone at the same time, is it symptomatic of another problem? And would this problem ruin the new bearings in a short period of time? I was told to look at the rear break callipers (thanks Yanards) to see if they were binding, but is this all I should be checking or is there something else like evil dwarfs or bad spirits that could be the problem? I have run a search but nothing has been said about simultaneous bearing failure. Ta!

 

PS Is it only the wheel bearing kit I need to do the job and are there any special tools needed?Hello! Both of my rear wheel bearings have decided to die on me (3-4mm travel through the wheel and alot of noise) so I am off to get some more from GSF. But before I do I am wondering about the fact that BOTH bearings have gone at the same time, is it symptomatic of another problem? And would this problem ruin the new bearings in a short period of time? I was told to look at the rear break callipers (thanks Yanards) to see if they were binding, but is this all I should be checking or is there something else like evil dwarfs or bad spirits that could be the problem? I have run a search but nothing has been said about simultaneous bearing failure. Ta!

 

PS Is it only the wheel bearing kit I need to do the job and are there any special tools needed?

[davidwort 0]

Hello! Both of my rear wheel bearings have decided to die on me (3-4mm travel through the wheel and alot of noise) so I am off to get some more from GSF. But before I do I am wondering about the fact that BOTH bearings have gone at the same time, is it symptomatic of another problem? And would this problem ruin the new bearings in a short period of time? I was told to look at the rear break callipers (thanks Yanards) to see if they were binding, but is this all I should be checking or is there something else like evil dwarfs or bad spirits that could be the problem? I have run a search but nothing has been said about simultaneous bearing failure. Ta!

 

PS Is it only the wheel bearing kit I need to do the job and are there any special tools needed?

 

just need a small punch to knock the old races out, use the old race to tap the new ones in, providing the wheels spin freely with the handbrake off I can't see they have overheated from binding brakes, perhaps they were both badly adjusted?

You will need a caliper wind back tool though most likely, I'd personally replace the rear disks while I'm at it.

 

Oh, you will need grease and a couple of split pins.

David.

[Not_Aircooled_or_Taxfree 0]

Cheers dude! Of to GSF now

[Supercharged 2]

Make sure you get the SFK ones, not the cheap Jap rubbish...

[2cc 0]

AND you need to get the carriers off to remove the disc. They have 4 recessed hex head bolts so you will need a spline drive on a socket T bar to get them out; 8mm IIRC. Actually I would buy some new ones to put back in as they are prone to damage when you (or previous owner/garage) take em off

[gradeAfailure 0]

Do GSF sell both the SFK and the Jap ones then...? My rear bearings are being done at The Phirm tomorrow (simply cos it's too cold for me to be bothered!) and they'll be sourcing the bearings for me, and I suspect they'll come from the ubiquitous GSF seeing as they're right by one...

[kebabman 0]

I got the cheap GSF ones last time and they've lasted 8 months, had put it down to my poor fitting of them....but maybe it wasn't all my fault.

 

Gone for the more expensive ones now, £9.90 each as opposed to £6something. BTW, if you mention you are a member of the corrado club (no proof required) when on the phone, you get a 10% discount! So that brings the bearings in at £8.91 each. :lol:

[Not_Aircooled_or_Taxfree 0]

Doing the job now and i am wondering what grease to use! I have some high temp grease Castrol MS3 will that be ok or do i need to get some LM grease?

[Not_Aircooled_or_Taxfree 0]

Help me please, its cold and snowing (a bit) and i wanna put my car back together!

[davidwort 0]

Help me please, its cold and snowing (a bit) and i wanna put my car back together!

 

CV joint high temp grease is fine.

 

David.

[Not_Aircooled_or_Taxfree 0]

thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Huggs and kisses!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Make sure you get the SFK ones, not the cheap Jap rubbish...

 

You mean the £6.50 'VTECH' ones? They're what's in mine at the moment :-) I dumped my warped rear discs (cheap VAG rubbish ;-) ) and fitted Pagid FRs and Brembos to match the fronts.....and tbh I looked at the bearings closely and they're fine.... £90 for both Brembos, set of MK4 FRs and 2 bearing kits.... can't really grumble at that :-)

 

Not fried or Barbequed, use LM grease mate, it's designed for wheel bearings, graphite CV grease isn't!

[kebabman 0]

Agreed, LM grease all the way. What does LM stand for by the way? Low melting?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

High melting point LithiuM apparently....

 

You want the grease to melt anyway so that it goes to a smooth oily consistency, hence why you have the rear rubber seal and front cap to stop it leaking out ;-) If the grease stayed highly viscous, it would cause too much drag and the bearings would run dry..... but you don't want it to get too hot too quickly.....

[Not_Aircooled_or_Taxfree 0]

I have broken one of the sliding bolts on the carriers. GSF dont seem to sell them or they are not listed as carriers. Anyone have any advise or better a spare one? ..............stupid rusty thing........................

[kebabman 0]

Get a new one from VW, I got a whole bag of them from a VW commercial vehicle centre for next to nothing. Is worth having spares for all 4 as those bolts are very prone to snapping when rusty.