Stan 24v 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Finding it a little bit difficult at times to keep the front wheel down and the car going in the correct direction :shock: Whats the best way to try and get it sorted? Ive got lowered and stiffened suspension (Koni TA and Eibach springs), but the power is causing the fron to lift a little more than it used to. :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue_Joe 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Understeer I think you'd sort by uprating the antiroll bars to an eibach or similar set. Upgrading suspension to a decent set of coilovers etc etc Torquesteer I don't think you can so anything about as it is caused be the two driveshafts being different lengths IIRC!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil K 0 Posted February 3, 2006 You want to do an engine swap matey... I hear the 2.9 12V is a good motor ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted February 3, 2006 You want to do an engine swap matey... I hear the 2.9 12V is a good motor :lol: Finding it a little bit difficult at times to keep the front wheel down ... Whats the best way to try and get it sorted? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veeDuB_Rado 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Strut brace maybe? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Torque steer can be corrected by adding more castor angle (either through custom wishbones or custom top mounts). But that's not something to be done without serious discussions with "people who know".. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted February 3, 2006 As you are still using the Vr box then won't an LSD help with the application of the extra power you now have? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trig 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Yeh an LSD would help a lot I would have thought.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
logicaltuning 0 Posted February 3, 2006 dummy shaft to make equal length driveshafts some of the nova 2.0 turbo lads do this due to 200+bhp in a crisp packet means masses of torque steer. anti roll bars, bracking, bloody good tires, and a softer right foot are usually a good'un aswell Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmn 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Quaiffe or peloguin diff would be a good start, with some new bushes and maybe even arb's Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan 24v 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Ok cheers. Will speak to PSI when I go back in a couple of weeks. Phil, that 12v thing is just so old school :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 3, 2006 The ATB in theory just makes things worse because power that would normally spin away is being retained in the transmission....plus the ATB's natural desire to pull the car in a straight line permanently can often cause a bit of a fight mid bend if you're not used to it.....but we're talking 8/10ths and beyond here. To reduce understeer I'd recommend fitting a rear brace and Eibach or Neuspeed ARB. Leave the front one standard and don't go any lower than -1 degree negative on the camber with stiff coilovers, or -1.2 with a moderately stiff kit. Torque steer, all you can do is make sure your wheels aren't too wide, the dampers are in good nick, you're not too low and don't punch it on adversely cambered roads, or you'll just pull in the direction of the camber :-) Far too many variables with this..... if the car is sound bush, damper, tyre and driveshaft wise (Worn CVs can cause torque steer)...then it's the roads and you need to take care. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmn 0 Posted February 3, 2006 Maybe someone could do a chassis tuning guide, hint at kev :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 3, 2006 LOL, it's all subjective though, some people might not like my personal preferences :-) On an otherwise relatively standard car, a rear brace and rear ARB will immediately sharpen the turn-in and make it feel less understeery, so they're a good start ;-) The front doesn't roll so much and uprated fronts in combo with the rear will give you stupendous grip in the dry, but you've got be careful on slimey roundabouts or the nose will run wide too early. But if you've got a quaife, simply step on the gas and it'll kill the understeer almost instantly and pull you round smoothly - without lighting up the inside tyre 8) IMO, the best thing to do on cars this old is to brace the rear as that's where the body flexs the most. There's nothing strapping the two rear turrets together like in a saloon car, so it just twists when you push it. The MK2 Honda Civic type R comes with front and rear braces as standard ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 0 Posted February 4, 2006 Nice info here. Does the same or similar regarding mods to improve the handling apply to my Golf VR6? The torque steer in my car is rediculous. Really have to apply the pressure lightly on the gas pedal! When I first got my car I almost spun it on a roundabout not realising how powerful it was off the line. It skidded into the next lane...luckily the car behind could see what was happening and slowed down. That was all in the dry with relatively little acceleration... but first and second gears are very quick. 200bhp in a golf tends to equal a lot of torque steer ! However I have totally standard suspension (other than vag gas shocks). I would certainly like to improve my handling - so is a rear strut brace the first mod I should make? Is this a strut brace that attaches to the top mounts in my boot? Or a brace that sits underneath the car at the rear? How easy to fit are they (many hours labour) or could I fit it, and how much are they? Any recommended makes? Are front strut braces worth it? And how much are rear anti-roll bars and how much labour for a garage to fit or is this something relatively easy that a lamen could attempt? Again, any recommended makes to go for that last? I'm also looking to upgrade my actual suspension too - not sure whether to go for a spring/shock combo or coilovers. I like the idea of konigsport or Highsport coilovers but do coilovers tend to last longer than spring shock combos? Cheers. Ps. By the way what does ATB stand for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites