onlyG60ing 0 Posted September 5, 2003 Why is it that when I connect the blue wire that goes to the cold enrichment temperature sensor the idle starts to go up and down in a weird way ,also when I drive it (with the sensor attached) it seems like the car is choking (not getting gas from the pump) , I've been told that it can be an electrical short. this problem is there only when the cold enrichment temperature sensor is pluged the car runs ok without the sensor, both fuel pumps are working fine.and I have changed the blue sensor a couple of times. does this sensor effect on the performane of the car,and am I harming the engine when I drive while it is unplugged ?? what could be the problem???? :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spoier 0 Posted September 5, 2003 That is strange, if I disconnect my blue sensor with the car running the RPM drops but stays steady, and plug it back in the RPMs rise and stay steady... an unsteady ("hunting") idle is usually due to a faulty or dirty ISV valve My fave link.... http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/Engine/g60_problems.html Get a multimeter and you can check the blue sensor: [Jan]: The values of this sensor must be roughly, Bentely pp 24.250-2: 10 C = 3000 - 4000 Ohm 20 C = 2000 - 2800 Ohm (this is typical room temp) 80 C = 300 - 400 Ohm 100C = 170 - 220 Ohm (this is typical operating temp) Skye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
USOPHUNKE 0 Posted September 7, 2003 if i disconect my blue sensor my car shuts right off......it use to just drop my idle down....now just off :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gee60 0 Posted September 15, 2003 Hmmm... cold enrichment temperature sensor = blue sensor ?? gee60 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gee60 0 Posted September 15, 2003 Every time I start the engine (even blue sensor hot) it runs few seconds (20s-1min) over 1000 rpm at idle...so there must be some sort of timer in ECU that keeps rev higher than idle set ...any idea :?: gee60 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted September 19, 2003 if i disconect my blue sensor my car shuts right off......it use to just drop my idle down....now just off :? Sounds like your timing needs looking at. Blue temp sensor sends a signal to the ECU enabling the self correcting timing system to operate. With this temp sensor connected, your ECU will make corrections to the timing which will enable your engine to run even when the timing is set wrongly. Re-setting the timing must be done with the blue temp sensor disconnected. It should be set to approx 6 degrees BTDC. The cause of your timing being incorrect is what you will need to find out. Possibilities :- loose distributor, damaged or incorrectly mounted distributor cap or rotor arm, damaged cambelt. Damaged cambelt is very serious and its condition should be checked immediately. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted September 19, 2003 Every time I start the engine (even blue sensor hot) it runs few seconds (20s-1min) over 1000 rpm at idle...so there must be some sort of timer in ECU that keeps rev higher than idle set ...any idea :?: gee60 Not normal, although I'm not sure of the cause. Possibly a fault somewhere in the cold start system ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
USOPHUNKE 0 Posted September 19, 2003 i will have to check that.....do you know how....i looked at my dist..and saw no bolt just a plastic piece and a wire conected..... ????may sound stupid but what is a cam belt????and where is it.....???? thanks for all your info ......ill take a look inside my dist today...it was just changed last month and was in real bad shape.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted September 19, 2003 Cambelt is a toothed belt which connects the camshaft, crankshaft & distributor drive gears together. On the drivers side edge of your engine you will see 2 plastic covers - the top one covers the top of the belt where it rides on the camshaft pulley. Cambelt & cambelt tensioner pulley should be replaced every 50-60 thousand miles by a suitably qualified/knowledgeable person. Your distributor should be secured by a small clamping plate with a bolt through it. This clamp is located at the narrow base of the distributor where it connects into the engine block. The plastic piece & wire that you have noticed will be the "hall sender". This sensor tells the ECU when cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Centre. This info will be used, along with info from various other sensors, by the ECU to self correct any timing problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
USOPHUNKE 0 Posted September 19, 2003 your info is awsome and i should be able to set my timing.....i will have a shop look at the cam stuff...sounds alittle out of my tech. abilities...although i do know where it is cuz i took that cover off before... I'll keep ya posted on my results...thanks :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted September 19, 2003 No problem Just make sure you take your car to a specialist who knows the G60 electrical system - try to use a workshop which specialises in VW cars. Otherwise you may drive away with more problems than you went in with. Hope the garages in your area are better than the ones here in Leeds. VW specialists here are useless. Good luck............ :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites