CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted April 9, 2006 they are spot on,if you were a tooth out you would know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 10, 2006 ok, used my golf haynes manual for reference and it said to put a bulb across -ve LT terminal, and to good earth. it said that if the bulb was on then i should rotate clockwise untill it went out, but it never did go out. so either this is diff to a golf or somethings wrong with my car. could i have damaged my ecu when rotating the dizzy? also when turning over by starter i sometimes get what i would guesse to be a backfire, its seems to come out of a inlet crack but cant be sure about that. i know my lambda probe was probably on its way out before i did this job too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted April 10, 2006 You ether have got the timing wrong or your lead order wrong,position no 1 on TDC,valves shut,pop off your dizy cap and look at the position of the rotor arm it should match up near enough with No1 lead Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 11, 2006 at tdc dizzy points at lead 1 and runs 1 3 4 2. Got her running, not very well. but i got a new plastic intake (old one split), second hand vag dizzie. and second hand isv. so what would make her run badly? it backfires and is generally a bag of sh*t. in at garage tommorow so if i cant get it done today its up to the pros lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 11, 2006 i dont know if this is related to the really bad running but ive noticed that the brakes seem heavy, as if the servo isnt working. im sure i connected up all the servo pipes ok. this may be to do with the carrier swap or suspension change. just thought i best say incase someone links the two problems Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted April 11, 2006 Major Air leak....crimp the the rubber hose at the inlet manifold whilst its running to see if it improves. Your air meter flap wont work correcty due to the vacum loss. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 11, 2006 sounds like you may have a severe vacuum leak... that'd screw up both the running of the engine AND the brakes as described... check that the black and yellow valve on the pipe to the servo is OK and that the little take off pipes from it are intact and either blanked off properly or connected to a pipe which is connected to something else with no splits... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valerian 0 Posted April 11, 2006 If any of the vacuum pipes are leaking....not connected .....or connected wrong....the engine won't start Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 14, 2006 Finally got it sorted and did it without the mechanics help. not 100% sure how i fixed it but what i did is start right from the beggining and removed the whole inlet manifold and checked everything out while applying gasket seal paste. all marks where at tdc so i put it all together again and started her up. and wahoo she ran well. id like to thank everytone who helped me with it, wouldnt have cariied on trying if it wasnt for you guys. in fact i reckon its my lucky day because i even started my vw golf 16v which i changed the head on recently and it runs like a peach. all the hard work shows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
saysomestuff 0 Posted April 14, 2006 :cheers: nice one Sam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted April 14, 2006 Good to see you got stuck in and got it sorted :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valerian 0 Posted April 14, 2006 Great to hear you got her running in the end......it's really satisfying when you hear an engine run after so many problems .....don't you think? What does she pull like with the KR cams in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 14, 2006 well i need to get the ignition timing set right before i can say about how the car behaves. does seem different. will let you know tomorow hopefully. I have kr cams and larger inlet manifold so should see a difference. saysomestuff, said that if i put a kr head on my car this will also change performance. if so how will it? if its worth it i may do it as my head is 148k miles old, and i have a spare kr head lying around ready for rebuilding. thanks again lads Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted April 14, 2006 I thought all the Valver heads were the same and the cams changed the spec? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 14, 2006 heads have different internals. think once they've been gas flowed theres not much difference though. anybody have proper information on this mod? also which is best timing setup? 6 BTDC or 9 BTDC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
saysomestuff 0 Posted April 14, 2006 i think it's 9 mate IIRC All the details you'll need to wring a bit more power out of yer 9A; 1.8 head etc.. are here Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 17, 2006 ok, took it to the garage on Saturday and they adjusted the ignition timing and they said it seems way out, he said about 20 degrees, but to me it looks more 10-15 is this a bad thing? car runs fine. all tdc marks are still ligning up too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites