Spykee 0 Posted May 29, 2006 im getting a really bad problems with the G60 at the moment to the point where im wanting to get rid of it cos im fed up! basically i have been having issues with the acceleration for a good few months where it seems like its not going as fast as it should and then givein one hell of a kick at 5k rpm...... now i knew this was wrong as this is where the it normally starts to lose its guts in the go faster department. because of this i have recently had a new cambelt and tensioner, dizzy cap and rotor along with the timing set up by my mate who is a mechanic. the current stage that im at is that when putting my foot down in 2nd gear its flat as a pancake and then in 3rd and 4th gear it now gives a massive kick as if its coming on boost at about 3,000rpm as if its got a turbo!?! my mate has done an emissions test on it and is saying that they are through the roof! he said that one of the emissions readings (might be CO) is supposed to be at about 2.5 percent and my car is currently running at 10 percent, which is way over what is expected and is guzzling fuel like im getting it for free! im basically after some advice now on where to look for the potential problem as my mate isnt too familiar with Corrado's and its the only G60 he has ever worked on. i have now been without the car for almost 3 weeks back and forth due to it being in the garage with him looking at it when he gets a chance so ive had enough of it and would really, really appreciate it if someone could give me some help and shed some light on the situation? thanks in advance, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted May 30, 2006 vac hose form TB to the ecu, must be 2.5mm internal diameter and exactly 1m long,, try that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dubcharged 0 Posted May 30, 2006 Might sound obvious but have you tried adjusting the CO pot on the boost pipe using your mates gas analyser? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 cheers guys i will give those things a go i have also been told that it could be something to do with the blue temp sensor? so for the sakes of a tenner im gonna change that as well. where abouts on the TB is the vac hose to the ECU cos there are quite a few hoses tbh? :lol: cheers, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted May 30, 2006 the one closest to the inlet manifold out the back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 the one closest to the inlet manifold out the back ok i will change that, im sure it will only be a few quid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 oh i forgot to say in the original post that my mate has taken it to a friends garage who has electronic diagnostic systems and this guy is sayng that i need to get a Break Out Test done on the car or something? what's one of these and do i need to go down that road yet cos it's gonna be time consuming apparently so it sounds expensive?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dubcharged 0 Posted May 30, 2006 Try the cheapest/easiest things first. Check/change the vac hose to the ECU (there are 2 very close to each other at the back of the throttle body - the one you want is the uppermost one) Adjust the CO pot using the gas analyser How is your idle? Can you smell petrol while it idles/ is it lumpy? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted May 30, 2006 vac hose form TB to the ecu, must be 2.5mm internal diameter and exactly 1m long,, try that? I thought it was 3.5mm x 1m in length :?: I replaced mine not long back. Used Diesel run off pipe at 3.5mm internal bore. Hay Dubcharged if one has a gas anylizer what readings is one looking for. Last week I retuned the CO pot to 450 as per yr recomendations after fittimg me new 5.5 chip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60griff 0 Posted May 30, 2006 also if the vac pipe doesnt work, try the lambda probe, sounds like a problem ive got. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 the bloke at the parts desk at VW Kettering said that its a 3.5mm x 1M lenght as well and hes pretty up on his G-laders as he has a Polo G40........ called it exactly what you did as well, diesel run off pipe! im going to replace that and i have also spotted a vac pipe that is totally broken off the front left hand side of the Inlet Manifold as well so im sure that cant be helping! VW want £15 a meter for that cotton braided hose though! what a rip off! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 Try the cheapest/easiest things first. Check/change the vac hose to the ECU (there are 2 very close to each other at the back of the throttle body - the one you want is the uppermost one) Adjust the CO pot using the gas analyser How is your idle? Can you smell petrol while it idles/ is it lumpy? i have looked at the Vac hose on the back of the TB and its not in teh best of conditions so im gonna change that tomorrow by the CO Pot do you mean CO potentometer? or something like that? :lol: it idles fine but it does smell pretty rich though to be honest Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted May 30, 2006 Hi mate. go to Halfrauds. 1m x 3.5mm bore is £3 plus you get two diesel injector caps for blocking the other vac nipple. That is if you have no carbon canister like me. The pack is sealed. Typical Halfrauds style. It sez 1m X 3.4. When you look on the hose braiding it has printed 3.5mm. Not that .1 of a mmm is going to change things. Before I rebuilt my vac system and throttle body my ECU line was 3m long :shock: See here all soughts of conections!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted May 30, 2006 It should be 3.2mm or 1/4" for a nice snug fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 cheers 2 door, thats loads cheaper! Darren, have you got any other ideas what it could be thats cheaper than getting the ECU readings checked out? i just replaced the blue temp sensor and thats made no difference cheers, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted May 30, 2006 cheers 2 door, thats loads cheaper! Darren, have you got any other ideas what it could be thats cheaper than getting the ECU readings checked out? i just replaced the blue temp sensor and thats made no difference cheers, Pop Down and we will hook it up for you for FREE. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy T 0 Posted May 30, 2006 Was just going to say blue temp sensor as it cured my 12% CO idle! at least you've ruled it out anyway! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 30, 2006 cheers 2 door, thats loads cheaper! Darren, have you got any other ideas what it could be thats cheaper than getting the ECU readings checked out? i just replaced the blue temp sensor and thats made no difference cheers, Pop Down and we will hook it up for you for FREE. really? :shock: erm.... i might just do that even though you are about 2 hours away from me! there is a few things i was thinking of getting from you anyway such as an rsr outlet to solve my boost leak on my charger :lol: how busy are you this week? im off for half term you see cos im a teacher... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 31, 2006 right im trying to check the CO pot readings..... do i do it with the engine running and it plugged in to the 3 pin plug that goes off somewhere else or can i disconnect it and do it that way? i have tried both and get totally different readings from both! i know im turning the screw so it reaches 500 ohms but has anyone got any ideas how to hold the multimeter pins in place as well as turn the scrw?! cheers, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted May 31, 2006 right im trying to check the CO pot readings..... do i do it with the engine running and it plugged in to the 3 pin plug that goes off somewhere else or can i disconnect it and do it that way? i have tried both and get totally different readings from both! i know im turning the screw so it reaches 500 ohms but has anyone got any ideas how to hold the multimeter pins in place as well as turn the scrw?! cheers, Remove the co pot from engine. Take to kitchen make a coffee. Set Mmeter up and touch outer pins. Have mate hold co pot and pins you turn the pot with driver :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 31, 2006 right thats all done! its running a lot better now with it set at 500 ohms on the CO pot but its still smelling tooty fruity in terms of exhaust fumes as well as it still feeling a bit lathargic but this is in every gear smoothly rather than just flat in 1st and second and then better in the others...... now i havnt had the car running normally for ages and have forgotten what it actually feels like acceleration wise so when im saying it feels lathargic thats comparing it to my Clio 172 Cup..... is this a fair comparison or not? i have no idea! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted May 31, 2006 may have missed something earlier in the thread but, is the wiring/connector plug to the lambda probe all good? its down under the brake servo. also,you havent got a fuel leak anywhere have ya? pipes to and from the injector rail via the fuel pressure regulator (fpr) also,dont know if anyone else has had this,but one of my fuel lines running under the car was leaking,and it seemed as though the engine was running rich with the way the smell was floating about. neil. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 31, 2006 may have missed something earlier in the thread but, is the wiring/connector plug to the lambda probe all good? its down under the brake servo. also,you havent got a fuel leak anywhere have ya? pipes to and from the injector rail via the fuel pressure regulator (fpr) also,dont know if anyone else has had this,but one of my fuel lines running under the car was leaking,and it seemed as though the engine was running rich with the way the smell was floating about. neil. :) Neil, i havnt checked the wiring on the lambda probe in the engine bay but all the fuel pipes are fine cos i have already looked at them and the pressure seems ok as there is a nice gush of fuel coming out of the pipe into the back of the TB area when i turn the key to the 2nd stage of the ignition. i have had a really good look underneath as well with it up on the hydraulic ramp in my mates garage..... any other suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted May 31, 2006 ahh,worth checking the lambda wiring then m8 :) also,i know you have replaced the bts,but i wonder if the wiring is damaged in the connector? you could test it roughly by unplugging the bts while the car is running,the tickover should drop pretty low. apart from that im not sure really sorry m8 :( neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted May 31, 2006 right then, i have just had another look at the vac pipe off the ECU to hte TB and its pretty much broken completely where it goes onto the nipple on the back of the TB...... now changing the pipe is easy but how the hell do you get the ECU out or the plug off the ECU to get to the vac pipe where it goes onto the ECU? mine is here by the way as its a leftie :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
