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ChrisWardVR6

Corrado VR6 Engine Cutting out.

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I'm hoping someone on here can help with a really annoying problem that has happened on my VR6 since I bought it.The Car tries to stall intermittantly when hot, for example if you stop at a junction the engine dies.You can re start the car but as soon as the enigne is under load it kangaroos and trys to cut out again.If you park up & leave it for 20 min its fine.The car seems to do this when cold aswell but this seems to occur while on the move,so the engine doesn't cut out.I've had the car checked on a VAG system & it mentioned that the engine speed sensor might be at fault.Could this cause the problem ???

Any advice or help would be great.

Chris.

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This is quite often due to a dirty idle stabilisation valve- dead easy to clean and often eliminates the stalling (mine never stalled since I cleaned mine)

 

You should be able to find the instructions on here- if not then I'll post them up.

 

Be careful with the Vag-Com readings- One of the sensors will show as faulty if the you test without the engine running (and I'm pretty sure its the engine speed sensor!)

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Thanks for the replies.I'd heard that about the engine speed sensor.I'm not sure what is causing it to try to cut out or stall when moving though.

I've had it rolling roaded & they gave it a clean bill of health.It was even putting out 200 BHP.The only mods to it are a Mongoose & K&N Panel filter.

The plugs were replaced at the last service so not sure if that could be causing it.The HT leads have been check as has most of the other sensors.

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Its 95% the ISV- give it a clean :lol:

 

Edit: Ok maybe not 95% as I haven't heard of ISV's causing kangarooing on the move- but its certainly the no.1 suspect for the stalling

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The ISV is located just behind the engine, as you look at it from the front.

 

I had kangarooing on my last VR and that was caused by the MAF.

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Thanks, whats best to clean the ISV with ???

I might shuld dumb but what does the MAF do ??

 

Stan 24v did yours stall when you came to a halt after it had stated to kangaroo ?

Thanks for all the help.

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No it didnt stall but it wouldnt drive.

 

Try taking the ISV off, clean it with carb cleaner and see if it helps mate, its cheaper than replacing the MAF. A new MAF is around £300!!!

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One more thing- don't forget to clean all around the throttle butterfly as well- shite around the TB butterfly can have as much of an influence as a dirty ISV in my experience

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I'll try that.

One thing I have also noticed is the fuel pump is noticeable but not all the time.I've never run it low on fuel but I've got no record of it having a Fuel Pump or filter.The car has only do 72K so should it of had a filter buy now ?

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Sounds like classic engine speed sensor symptoms. Trouble is it's hard to diagnose...

 

Bear in mind that if you let the car stall, and THEN read the engine error codes, you *will* see "engine speed sensor - no signal", but this does NOT mean anything - it's just telling you the engine isn't turning.

 

The only way to diagnose for sure is when the car has kangarood a few times, leave the engine running and get the ECU straight onto the VAG-COM - DO NOT TURN OFF THE IGNITION. If the error code scan says "Engine speed sensor - implausible signal - intermittent" - that's your proof...

 

Replacing it is easy peasy, but as stated it's an expensive part.

 

Also note that I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be my piggy-back rechip ECU failing. If you have anything like this try bypassing it.

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The trouble is the engine dies as soon as you dip the clutch once it has started to kangaroo.The odd thing with it is it will rev ok if you dip the clutch and rev the eninge once the Kangarooing has started.

It seems to play up as soon as its under load.Ie in gear.

When it happend it cleared itself after 20 min of waiting for the RAC to come out.

Where is the speed sensor I'll try removing it and see if it looks damaged etc ?

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You can't really tell if it's damaged. It is, essentially, a magnet with a coil wrapped round it. But all this stuff is encased in a solid plastic casing so you can't see it.

The cable for it is clipped to the front engine mount, and the sensor itself is bolted into the face of the block in line with the flywheel, more or less.

You can test it electrically: it should be reading between 500-700 ohms resistance iirc. Even better if you can break-out the cables and attach an oscilloscope (obviously at the same time as having it hooked to the engine's wiring loom!). You should see a nice sharp square wave when the engine is turning. If you can do this, let the temperatures build up - typically a failing sensor will lose resolution when everything heats up - and be good again once it's all cooled down. (I.e. after 20 minutes!)

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Its just happened again now, the engine restarted but as soon as you try to drive it trys to cut out.It seems to be fine on idle but not under load.Luckily I was near a friends garage & they have said they will have a look at it.Atleast its consistant.

Thanks for all the help & advice, hopefully it'll get fixed.

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You should change that if you havnt before anyway as it can make a lot of difference in the drive ability of the car ,smoother more responsive! It did when I changed mine ,but I dont reckon thats the stalling problem.

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