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PJutla

Rough running

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Hi there

 

Been lurking aroung for a while now, been looking for hints to sort my c out.

Bought this car back in january, been sorting things slowly, got the electrical things sorted (usual sunroof, wing mirrors etc), the guy i bought this off neglected the car a bit, so been sorting a few things as and when i can.

 

Anyway, been having problems with the car running rough and using too much fuel (approx 23mpg, checked with actual usage not mfa), So far i have changed with new parts:

Distributer and rotor arm

Ht leads

ISV - old one was knackered

Water temp sensor

 

Sorted the rough idle with the new ISV, but the car has a definate regular misfire which im having trouble tracing the source of the misfire, i've checked the vacuum hoses for cracks - none that i could find. The car starts fine but takes forever to start if it doesnt start first time, i get occasional smell of petrol too, kangaroos at low revs when slowing down.

 

I've no idea where to go from here, anyone got any ideas...

 

Thanks for any help

Prit

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hi mate i had no end of running probs with my 16V eventually sorted them with a new throttle switch and a new lambda probe the car runs great now and returning a far better mpg.....

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Yeah, as reaper1_3 says, the Lambda probe is probably a good place to start. There aren't many things that will cause a 2.0 16v to over-fuel but that's the main one.

 

As for the starting problem, I think that's a characteristic of the mechanical Bosch injection. My 1.8 16v starts perfectly 99% of the time; on occasion I'll release the key before it's started properly though and after that it can take a lot of cranking to get it to fire again. My friend's 2.0 16v is the same.

 

The misfire I'm not sure about. I guess the Lambda could re the root cause of that too but I wouldn't swear to it. One step at a time!

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Sorry to barge in but.. any idea what the going rate for a new 16v ISV is these days? I think mine needs swapping as idle is starting to get lumpier than a bowl of week old rice pudding!

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My 1.8 16v starts perfectly 99% of the time; on occasion I'll release the key before it's started properly though and after that it can take a lot of cranking to get it to fire again.

 

Mine's exactly the same, my bro's Golf 16v starts straight away though. :mad: I'm thinking injectors - but can't afford to swap 'em without being certain.

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im having exactly the same prob

ive bin told by 4 mechanicvs its an air leak.try spraying a tad of WD40 or pouring a small ammount of water around the injectors or intake manifold.

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Changed the lambda on firday, hasnt made any difference to the rich running. Will try the following next:

 

Throttle switch - is that the black coloured unit on the bottom side of the throttle body? Also how can i test it?

Will try water around the the injectors and around the intake manifold.

 

Will let you know how i get on.

 

Prit

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Where are you based? tbh I'd recomend that you go in to see a decent mechanic with full diagnostics and see if the engine is thowing up any error codes...

 

This will certainly show if your throttle position sensor is working properly!

 

I've had untold problems with mine and from my experience you will end up spending a lot of money before you get to the root of the problem unless you go and get the ECU scanned...

 

HTH

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My 1.8 16v starts perfectly 99% of the time; on occasion I'll release the key before it's started properly though and after that it can take a lot of cranking to get it to fire again.

 

Mine's exactly the same, my bro's Golf 16v starts straight away though. :mad: I'm thinking injectors - but can't afford to swap 'em without being certain.

That's with brand new injectors. I'm sure it's just how it is.

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If you suspect an air leak then spraying carb cleaner around the inlet is probably more useful than water. If there's a leak the engine will change it's tone as the combustable carb cleaner finds its way into the cylinders. It's pretty flammable though so be a bit careful where you're spraying it if the engine/exhaust is hot. Air leaks cause lean running though...you're saying your car is running rich.

 

Some 2.0 16vs have two throttle switches, some have just the one. They're both visible from the top and can be checked with a simple continuity test. There's a connector just below the throttle body. I tend to perform this sort of test at the ECU connector as it proves the wiring as well. As I see it, out of the two, only the full throttle switch being stuck closed could cause a rich-running problem.

 

There's no guarantee a VAG-COM check will show a problem. It's worth doing I guess but the KE-Motronic diagnostic capability is very sparse.

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Had a few days to mess about and check a few things out, checked the throttle switch it is switch in two positions, throttle closed and WOT. and continuity is ok there, where does the wiring correspond on the ecu connector?

 

Tried the carb cleaner aroung the injectors and intakes manifold - no affect on the sound of the engine.

 

Car misses a beat no and again...could the coil pack be on the way out?

Decided to check the timing, brought the timing marks on the crank pulley together (that is TDC on piston 1 right?), but i couldnt see the timing marks on the flywheel, are they obvious when you seen them?

 

Prit

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