Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
mr_fusion

The 'Running a Rotrex charger on a VR6' thread..

Recommended Posts

Right then, I got hold of the guy in Denmark and aparently I do need to grind a few mm of the manifold.

 

There is a small area of metal that sticks out that can be cut away (but only about 7-8mm) on the head side where the manifold meets it (where the gasket is).

 

My only concern is that if i fuck it up then its new head time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you'll be OK. I don't think you're in any danger of grinding into a water jacket or anything, they're pretty thick castings and the manifold can certainly lose a few mill.

 

Perhaps get him to send a close up shot of where he ground his? Just to be sure.

 

I do applaud you for doing this and not going down the usual Vortech route, it's quite brave. Storm Developments won't tell us sweet FA about these kits, so you're doing well gathering all the knowledge for us. You've got to be the only person outside of Storm D in the UK to use this charger.....good stuff!

 

Heads are cheap anyway.....if you do mess it up (unlikely) it's a good excuse to drop the CR slightly and whack that boost up :lol:

Actually, wouldn't a smaller pulley give you less of a belt clearance headache anyway?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have filed about 3mm of the head, seems to be enough clearance.

 

Boy is it tight though!

 

The smooth idler puley clears the fuel rail by about 2mm and the C's own idler pulley clears the fuel inlet and outlet by about the same distance. (this seems to be the tolerence all round in fact).

 

The mounting itslelf is very solid. Only headache now is to route the inlet hose and filter.

 

I had already moved the carbon canister, so I am going to move the k&n into the hole it left behind and run some hose up to the charger.

 

Thanks for all your help and support Kev (this goes for everyone on the forum as you are all a great bunch)

 

More pics tomorrow!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just thought i'd grab a pic of the latest progress.

 

I sorted the intake hose and fitted it in the dark to try it for size, works pretty well!

 

Black hose is from a Renault 5 Turbo (as it was the right ID and had all the right bends in it)

 

Also note the Bailey dump valve (recommended by rotrex).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

aha yes

 

it is used to tension the belt.

 

apparently the triangle wedge shape part is used to force the smooth idle pulley along the slot it is held in on the bracket by hammering the top of it. like a wedge to force it and thus tighten the belt, any other slack is taken up by the original idle tensioner that is now installed on the bracket.

 

maybe that doesn't make sense! hard to explain without taking another pic.

 

tomorrow i have a few things to do

 

install oil system

prime oil system

install belt.

tension belt

install inlet hose and k&n filter

put mapped chip back in (from my previous visit to stealth)

start testing it!

 

I will take more pics as i do these and post over the weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent progress!

 

Which bailey dump valve did you use out of interest? Just thinking of losing my recirc valve and using one of those instead.

 

Do you know what psi is that pulley going to give?

 

I'm liking this kit :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can't remember which one i have got, i think its about 90mm (will have to verify) off the top of my head i think 8psi was mentioned with the standard pulley.

 

quote from r-techs.dk (where i got the charger)

 

"We have pulleysizes from 60 mm to 110 mm in 6,7 and 8 ribs. If you want a special mm-size we can make that also. PSI It depend on the pulleysize but 20 psi is possible"

 

the bailey dump valve is a DV24 single piston (good for 60psi), never used one before though so not sure how well its going to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right then, right then!!

 

All fitted and running now!

 

All I can say is "bloody hell!"

 

You wouldn't believe the difference between this and the z-eng charger.

 

It sounds like a jet engine and goes like one as well.

 

Haven't pushed it too hard yet, but makes 5psi boost pretty much as soon as you hit the accelerator. Absolutley wonderful!

 

The dump valve works well with a satisfiying "pshhhhhtt" when you let off the accelerator.

 

Turned every pedestrians head when I took it for a spin round the block, bet they were all thinking "what the f*ck is that!!"

 

Only two niggles now:

 

1) the whistling noise is pretty load

2) when letting of the accelerator too sharply , it is stalling - any way to remedy this easily (ISV maybe or adjust the dashpot?)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what a nice compact installation that is mr_fusion, i cant help you on the questions youv`e asked but i hope you feel pleased with yourself ... looks great, i wonder what your bhp output will be now ? top job mate :thumbleft:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the biggest smile on my face!

 

I'm just charging up my tablet pc and then will run a quick vag-com on it in a bit to see if it throws up anything.

 

I think bhp must be at least 270 - 280 now (it feels more though and i managed to spin the wheels in 3rd gear!)

 

The current stealth remap will be limiting the output no doubt, but i will probably get the chains and the head gasket done before I take the C up to Vince again though).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I had read I thought that the charger was 'Totally silent' (to quote the rotrex blurb)

 

 

Is that more horse sh't?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The whistling is coming from the pipe that goes from the inlet hose to the ISV

 

I had to "manufacture" the connection and the hole is making the whistle.

 

It was doing this before I fitted the charger, but was much quieter then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, sorted the stalling

 

Adjusted the dashpot and now it settles down without dropping the revs too far and stalling the car.

 

Just need to run it on vag-com later to check the TPS angle isn't over 14 degrees.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Superb!! Glad it's all in and running :thumb right:

 

5psi as soon as you touch the accelerator - awesome, I wish mine was like that! The bottom end pick up must be insane! The Vortechs don't do sweet FA until 3000rpm, which makes me chuckle as the whole idea of a supercharger is bottom end performance (compared to a laggy turbo)!

 

The Rotrexes are known for giving a lot of low boost though. I wonder if fitting a DV to the Vortech (in place of the recirc valve) would help boost up the bottom end a bit.....hmmmmm

 

Next step for you (after you're bored!) is the short runner intake and intercooler ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah, the low end torque is insane now!

 

Car drives so differently now, its chomping at the bit to pull away all the time.

 

As you said, the 50mm hose from the charger gives it a huge push down low.

 

0-60 time must be pretty low, but I will need an assistant to help me time that I think.

 

getting a bit of kangarooing now though, only when easing off the accelerator an then trying to floor it again.

 

i have the 4bar FPR in still, but perhaps bigger injectors may be called for in the future as I'm not sure if the current ones can deliver fuel quick enough in certain situations.

 

a trip up to Vinceville is becoming more important me thinks...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The kangarooing, or snatching as Vincent calls it, is due to the MAF blowing hot and cold, at idle and slow speeds there is too much turbulence from the charger. Binning the MAF at the remap stage will cure that.

 

Take it easy for the time being as the standard injectors will running at their limit!! If the pulley is 8psi, you'll need the Bosch red tops for the required top end fuelling.

 

It's going to fly when mapped!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

16 ohm Bosch 150 series, 303cc, aka red tops ;-)

 

You will definitely need them if you want to explore the full rev range without risk of detonation. The standard squirters aren't up to it unfortunatley, and yep, they will need to go in before the remap.....but they can do that there, doesn't take long.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...