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poundhound

1989 16v trouble

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I'll start by apologising for not finding enough posts on the subject of overheating 16v's to fix my own. My only excuse is I'm new to the forum so be gentle.

 

You've probably heard this a million times before but any help would be very welcomed.

 

As soon as the car is started the temp guage goes straight to the top of the dial and the red light comes on.

 

The car will then start to warm its self up normally until it becomes hot (very)

 

Its had new water pump and thermostat and still not cured. My expansion tank isn't the normal style with the protruding cap. Its a round one with a black cap that you screw into the chamber. My audi a4 has a similar type of chamber.

 

The top radiator hose gets red hot but the bottom one luke warm.

 

Is it best to change the radiator? could it be the expansion chamber? could it be the expansion chamber cap? I haven't changed the coolant to a 50/50 mix yet as can't get my head around how this would cure it. Oh and there is no mixing of oil and water or water and oil.

 

Does anyone know of a majic cure?

 

please help cos I'm driving my mk3 escort and starting to wonder why I have the corrado!!!!! the wife would sell me let alone my cars so would like to fix things before she calls time on me and my 16v.

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1.8 valvers run hot as fuk well mine allways did , it sounds as if you have a doggy sender or wires

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yeah air lock take the cap off and run the motor for like 20 mins if it starts to bubble thats the air coming out so let it

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Thanks folks,

 

I'll maybe massage the missus first to get in the good books then stick me head under the bonnet.

 

Been looking through the forum and found that my header bottle is the same as on a vr6 (like a peach coloured ball with a black filler top).

 

Did give the pipes a bit of a squeeze earlier to see if there was a blockage but every time I squeezed, it put water in the expansion chamber. This means no blockage? but maybe hasn't shifted the air?

 

New to corrados so having to learn fast.

 

Never had this problem with my mk1 golf.

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yeah RUST my mate had a small rear light one the black paint and rust :) also when it rained car the filled up with rain lol like 2" we found the leak all the rain that rain off the car from the roof went in the car at the back of the engine why you ask RUST!! hole

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Mines a lovely low owner/mileage 1.8 in lhasa that'll never see the road again due to rust. grrr.

 

Whole of the back ends gone soft and its just not worth doing. That'll teach me for not listening to the wife 4 years ago when she said sell it!!!

 

hence the corrado. Gotta have a veedub around, the wife likes the a4 and I got a mk3 escort but want the corrado to run before she insists it goes!

 

can't afford a divorce!!

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Mines a lovely low owner/mileage 1.8 in lhasa that'll never see the road again due to rust. grrr.

 

Whole of the back ends gone soft and its just not worth doing. That'll teach me for not listening to the wife 4 years ago when she said sell it!!!

 

hence the corrado. Gotta have a veedub around, the wife likes the a4 and I got a mk3 escort but want the corrado to run before she insists it goes!

 

can't afford a divorce!!

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yeah man just have a mess with it let it heat right up with the cap off might clear it oh yeah put the matrix on full heat too

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having a similar problem with my 89 16v i can drive it from cold for about 20 mins then it starts sputtering at about 3-4k revs then gets as bad as not being able to take off at all.

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never tried it!!!!!!!!!!!

 

spent my time looking at the engine!!

 

not doing anything just looking thinking - 'no don't boil'. Doesn't fix itself though.

 

I'll find out tomorrow.

 

Tempted to go and have a look tonight but the neighbours will think I'm a loony.

 

Ford escorts get to you though.

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check the heaters are hot,mine used to blow hot and cold when i had an airlock.

Ended up undoing different pipes when it was hot (be carefull) and bleeding off the air

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even my 8valve golf mk2 got air locks when i changed all the water real ez to get out tho on them , i miss my 8v golf :) a real nippy car

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Massaged pipes today............hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

b@stard thing stilll gets too hot too quick. :(

 

Decided it must be the head gasket. Fk sakes. Grrr its back to the ford. Maybe the wife is right. :p

 

Got the thing hot enough to boil out the bubbles and the thing started to run lumpy. Switched the engine off and the expansion chamber boiled over. Toppped it back up and started it up again. Wouldn't start straight away then back fired then started. Ran great over 2000 revs but when allowed to idle it started missing. Applied the throttle and more backfiring before it revved smooth again. Head gasket right? :x

 

Someone please tell me no. :wink:

 

The good news is that both top and bottom radiator pipes are now hot. That I'm afraid is as good as it gets.

 

Changed the temp sender unit cos the guage flies up to the top when you turn the key. Still does. Wasn't that then? any ideas other than knackered wiring? :cry:

 

Whats best option for head gasket, change complete engine (I have a KR 1.8 16v in the garage (another fkin head gasket piece of VW Cak) which I know is now spot on (cost £500 to fix its head then scrapped the thing) or is the gasket DIY able?

 

any thoughts are appreciated even the link to the blue oval club via the scrap man.

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I had a similar problem trying to refill my valver without airlocking - my prefered method is to remove the heater matrix hose where it joins the cylinder head and fill it with the garden hose. Let the water run out of the head for a while - and then put the hose back on. Works for me!!

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best way to tell is a garage will have a thing that tells you if you have oil in your water

You mean a block tester? They're used to determine if there are exhaust gasses in the coolant. Oil in water generally shows up as white snot on the oil filler cap.

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