diggerbucket 0 Posted August 26, 2006 Just a quick one - which way do I need to adjust the bias valve to move the bias to the front a bit more? As far as I can see, i need to move the nut towards the top of the slot, because I have lowered the car, which raises the rear beam, which pulls on the regulator. Right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diggerbucket 0 Posted August 26, 2006 Oh and it's a VR if that makes a difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 20, 2010 old thread, but i need to do the same thing - after having lowered my car by about 40mm the rear end is quite twitchy on hard braking. In the pic below, which way should the arm be moved, upwards (towards the chassis) or downwards (towards the ground)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted April 20, 2010 it wants to be moved further downwards, when you lower it the beam lifts and as such lifts the mechanism. I had the same problem, seems to be alot better now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 20, 2010 OK, thanks for the prompt reply. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 21, 2010 for setting the brake bias, car should be kerb weight, spare tyre, full of fuel and driver, front pressure to brakes should be about twice that to the rear, which obviously needs special gauges and unions to test. But I guess as long as the spring is set so that as you increase weight in the back of the car the bias valve gradually gets moved by the spring, that will be about right, if there's play before the valve starts to get moved than that's got to be wrong, as you'd be adding weight and getting no increased braking to the back to start with. equally, if the valve is already partly moved at kerb weight (e.g. lowered suspension) then you'd be getting too much bias with an empty boot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted April 21, 2010 I had it pretty bad because my car is lowered quite alot and i found when i was braking quite hard, not even slamming, on the back end was fishtailing. Was highly amusing when i meant to do it, felt like i was drifting but highly unsafe in the event of an emergency brake so i fixed it! Now seems to be spot on, just 288's to do now and i'll have some proper brakes! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 23, 2010 just adjusted mine, and braking is back to normal. Just need to get the toe-out sorted and we're in business! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark_Storm 0 Posted June 30, 2010 Glad I found this thread. Just did a track day at Bedford and went through 2 sets of rear brake pads in 170 miles! Changed them at lunch afer grinding them to nothing, then at the end of the day there's little left of the new ones! Will be giving this a go this weekend Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
