flusted 0 Posted August 27, 2006 Just curious really, would love to do 16v/g60 but cant be arsed to take engine out again and try and build a low compression 16v block. Is it possible to just whack a 20v or 16v head on? I can get a log manifold made if needed. Also whats the score with the beetle crossflow head? If thats not an easy option, can i fit a 20v engine but fit all the g60 anciliries to it? Use the charger and digi 1? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted August 28, 2006 Just what i did mate,2 ABF metal headgaskets,O/E 16v new headbolts,Digi 1 injection with SNS-5 chip which works fine even on a 16v 2.0 engine. Don't bother using a 72mm pulley on the charger because the engine will use all the boost,it won't even register on the boost gauge.. 68mm pulley or even better 65mm jobbie.I'm considering going back to a turbo because i can't stand the noise the G-charger makes and i cant rid the engine of the bloody belt slip,there's no way i can put a tensioner on the belt because it's totally custom built by me using bits found off other cars,breakers etc. You could copy my set-up,depends on how much time you have,have you got a friendly breaker,loads of tools?,garage.. Good choice of intercooler is essential as is a good oil cooler. Remember,there will be no boost return so that charger will whistle while idleing,you may like it,i don't so i rigged up a kind of boost return to the O/E air box and it works ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VEEDUBBED 0 Posted August 28, 2006 I forgot,you've got the G60'PG' 1800cc engine which complicates things alot. You'll definatly need to change the PG's original pistons because the comp. ratio will be around 6.7/1 when adding the KR or 9A's cylinder head,i did it a few years back using a PG block and KR valver head.The turbo lag was quite bad because i was using a large turbo and the engine was totally gutless at low rpm but i got used to it. You'll also have problems regarding the IM shaft and wider camshaft pulley,cam belt etc. Unless you remove the engine block you won't be able to remove the IM shaft as it will hit the inner wing 'cos it's too long so you'll have to shave down a few mm's of the pulleys to get the pulleys to fit. 8valve's oil pump has a different drive to 16valvers,swap over pumps. Then there's the problem of the crankcase breather,valvers have theirs on the block while PG blocks have it on the cam cover. Pg block has a extra coolant passage behind the timing belt cover which interferes with the valver's metal timing belt cover but is a simple fix. And the PG's con rods have a 22mm gungeon pins as oposed to KR,9a's which make do with 20mm jobbies. I'm sure there's loads more that i've forgotton about,it's been a few years now,hope that helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites