Considering doing my own work on the Golf?

[markievw 0]

I am considering starting to do my own work on my mk2 Golf gti. I have done an oil and filter change, air filter.

I think the front brake pads are starting to bind, they are a bit low. So need changing really. They start to squeak/squeal when they get hot which stops when you apply the brakes

I have been looking at the Haynes manual as a start, and it seems that you only need basic tools

Seems okay, just need to get some copper grease and a set of brake pads.

Have to admit to being very wary about working on the brakes as if you make a mistake you could bascially end up killing yourself!

Is there anybody in the wrexham area who I could turn to for help if i get into difficulties?

Bit cheeky I know but am p****d off at paying garage charges. Hell they charge 5-6 times more than i earn per hour!

[_Monkey 0]

Brake pads are quite easy (and reletively fool proof), Especially if you have a haynes manual, the only special tool you need is a brake windback tool, but you can do without if you fancy pushing it back.

 

Just remember not to get any of that grease on the discs or friction area of the pads!

[TomB 0]

...and invest in an allen key for your socket set (7mm of the top of my head), and some new caliper bolts for when the old rusty ones have to be wrestled out with some gloves of power and a Bionic Grip the inside having rounded off under the allen key:-)

Not that this has happened twice you understand....

Good luck,

Cheers,

Tom

[_Monkey 0]

Not that this has happened twice you understand....

 

In one sitting?! :shock:

[StuartFZR400 0]

Markie, the Golf should be an easy palce to start. I used to own a Mk2 golf and did all of the work my self; there is plenty of room in these things to move about; parts are fairly cheap too, even off the main dealer VAG stuff.

 

Brakes are only slightly dodgy if they're ABS, as they're under huge pressure; other than this is childs play. Be aware of where you're putting that Copper Slip, not funny if you put them on the wrong side of the pad; be VERY careful not to touch the abrasive side of the brake pad. Copper grese on the back of them just helps prevent rust where the caliper touches it. I'd buy a £2.99 wire brush from homebase/halfords for cleaning up bolts and stuff, as long as teh rust isn't too bad - never wire brush near to the flexi hoses and other rubber bits. If you're thinking of draining out the fluid, just be sure not to get any air into the system. The Haynes should be simple to follow, I just remember there were times that you had to use common sense and fill in the blanks your self.!!!

[GIXXERUK 0]

yeah 7mm allen key is needed , the brakes are quite simple , have a go mate, if you get stuck you can always post on here :-)

[A1 VR6 0]

A 7mm allen key socket is only needed to remove the caliper carrier which the caliper is bolted to. If you're only doing the pads you don't need to remove this. Oh and safety first - use axle stands and don't rely just on a jack.

[_Monkey 0]

I thought the 7mm allen bolts held the caliper to the carrier, the carrier is bolted on with 19mm bolts, 8v ones are part of the hub.

[GIXXERUK 0]

I thought the 7mm allen bolts held the caliper to the carrier, the carrier is bolted on with 19mm bolts, 8v ones are part of the hub.

 

 

same here , sure i needed a 7mm, many moons ago though :-)

[Jonny_L 0]

You're lucky to have a Mk 2 to work on. It's a damn sight easier than a corrado, though not quite as easy to work on as an old beetle (aircooled simplicity, lovely).

That said, most discs and pads work the same way anyway, though some need bearings pressing in. If you ever do back pads/discs, make sure you've got one of those twist caliper clamp thingys, I only found that out on this forum after struggling for an hour.

 

Drum brakes, however, are a completely different matter, you end up cutting your hands up getting them off, then getting poked with springs, then have to bleed the system, and even then they're rubbish at braking! I can't stand them, which is why i'm slowly erradicating them out of my life :lol:

[A1 VR6 0]

I thought the 7mm allen bolts held the caliper to the carrier, the carrier is bolted on with 19mm bolts, 8v ones are part of the hub.

 

Long time since I did this so just cheked on EKTA and the allen bolts are only on the rear bolting the carrier to the hub.

[TomB 0]

Not that this has happened twice you understand....

 

In one sitting?! :shock:

 

Well, put it this way, when I did the ones on my GTD, 3 out of the 4 caliper bolts had to be persuaded off with a set of mole grips and welding gloves, as the insides of the bolts were so rusty they just rounded off....

When I did my mate's it was only one that I had to do, but you get the idea...

Good luck,

Tom