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coolent temp reaching 100-110!! in short distances

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I have had a problem recently with the coolent temp guage reaching between 100-110 oC within around 20miles of leaving my home. My oil and water levels are right, the water is not milky either. Maybe it was my thermostat not working? has anyone else encountered this?

 

I was showed by somebody it could be the electrical connection on the water tank. It may have been dirty?

 

Also what is the average running temp of the coolent, this time of year?

 

Cheers for any help

 

Ryan

 

2.0 litre 16 v 1992

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Could be that your black temp sensor is knackered.

 

My coolant only goes up to 100+ when sat in traffic, usually sits between 80 and 90.

 

what engine do you have? may help other dianose your problem.

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Both pipes to the rad get hot, bottom one not so much. I never get a reading on my dash for oil temp? could this be a sensor problem?

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Oil temp could be a faulty sensor for MFA, belive this sensor is located on the back of the head (side nearest to gearbox), will have a wire coming of it.

 

Both pipes should be hot, if you are chekcing while the car is static. After how long of a run did you check the pipes?

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If thats the case you could have too much pressure in the system caused by a faulty coolant cap or air in the system!

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i'll have take it out for a drive, to see what happens with the pipes. Is the sensor for the oil temp black?

 

what do you use for maintainence help, as im not too brilliant with my engines i need pics and photos for help. have you heard of a owners manual for a corrado?

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theres no haynes out for it mate but people have been purchasing these bently manuals expensive but if you look on ebay they do sell .pdf versions that can just be viewed on your computer!

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-CORRADO-90-94-BENTLEY-Workshop-Manual-Book_W0QQitemZ270092097954QQihZ017QQcategoryZ18439QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

As for the oil temp sensor havnt a clue mate!

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Only an idea but have you checked that your fan is actually coming on?

I say this as I had a similar problem with my VR engine (coolant quickly getting to 110degs), only to discover that the (inexpensive) thermoswitch (two stage bi-metallic thing) half way down the radiator was knackered.

You can test whether the fans are functioning by bridging the connections on the back of the thermo switch (I used a pair of needle nosed pliers, nice pointy bits on one end and comfy insulated handles!). If the fan comes on when the thermoswitch is bridged, then it probably the switch.

My engine was being saved by the second, higher temperature switch, located elsewhere, that was kicking stageIII of the fan in at 115degs!

ECP or GSF sell these parts, have a good look at the shape of the connector on the back, as I believe there have been several versions over the years.

You can change it quite easily without loosing much coolant. Just have the new one ready and swap with a slight of hand :wink:

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Old thread sorry but its still a problem on my old valver :cry:

 

The coolant and pressure is geeting very hot quickly, the car is at a garage and Before I got it taken away I wanted to know if there was anything else it could be. I cant afford to have them take the head apart to investigate further unfortunately.

 

They have fitted a new thermostat and tried it with a different rad still it gets too hot. sounds like its probably quite serious

 

cheers again

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Really do need to check the hose after your temp gets that high.....could be thermostat or water pump?

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it's unusual but I guess there could be a gasket leak from a cylinder into a water gallery in the head/block

do all the cheaper things first though, get that oil temp gauge working as that's a good reference for engine temp against your water

do you have the heater matrix by-pass valves fitted, to check their operation (and for blockage in the matrix) you should get hot air in the car with the heater on and the right had (out) hose should be warm/hot as well as the input from the head

with them off the car they are both one way valves that you should be able to blow through easily (in the direction of the arrow) and a small amount of air will escape via the small outlet (by-pass)

is you waterpump old? did you fit a genuine thermostat?

when running from cold a 16v takes about 10 minutes to get fully up to temp and I'd expect the thermostat to be fully open and the bottom hose of the rad get noticably warmer just before the water temp gauge hits mid way, then a few minutes after the stat opens, with the car idling, the first stage fan should kick in.

 

just a few thoughts.

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Have you read the post from Greg Kirby back in 2007?

 

Regardless of other issues with the cooling system, if it's getting to 100c then that fan should be running almost constantly, if this is not the case as I suspect then you need to change the Thermoswitch.

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I had the same problem recently. It turned out it was the thermo switch. I replaced that (£8 from AVS), flushed the coolant system and now all is well. Sits around 90 - 100.

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Well to be honest, if the car is driving ok, and the only thing is the temp guage rising to a level higher than you expect, then I wouldn't worry too much.

 

My VR used to suddenly shoot up to 110+ but this was down to a fault in the temp sender. And 20 miles isn't a short distance in my book.

 

Tom.

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no its the engine getting seriously hot too quick and boiling the coolant, unfortunately. :help:

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old thread, same issue, different car. The Daily :(

 

Im gonna try the coolant bottle and cap change I think, new oil and coolant, hope it works.

 

Its started this week, TBh oil levels where low and since I had this car its not had an oil change and filter change, so I'll get this sorted asap hopefully. It started misfiring badly today sounds like its chugging. sounds awful. I hope i've not fudged it

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Again...

 

Have you read the post from Greg Kirby back in 2007?

 

Regardless of other issues with the cooling system, if it's getting to 100c then that fan should be running almost constantly, if this is not the case as I suspect then you need to change the Thermoswitch.

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