1990 1.8 16v Starting problem, no spark and no fuel

[16vrixter 0]

Yes, sorry but yet another Corrado starting problem. :(

 

The problem first began when I was in the outside lane of the M6 and the engine just cut out and so I had to coast onto the hard shoulder. :shock:

 

When the car came to a stop it took a few minutes before it would start again.

 

The next day it started fine then after a short journey it wouldn't start. I called the AA and the guy spent about 90 minutes trying to diagnose what was wrong. He checked out the battery, spark plugs, leads, the dizzy and various other electrics etc

 

He said that the starter motor was turning over but there was no spark or fuel injection getting to the engine. When you turned the ignition you couldn't hear the fuel pump priming. He then checked the relay and fuses for the fuel pump and they were fine.

 

He did find a badly frayed earth cable which was attached / very near to the ignition amplifier / ECU and replaced that but it didn't solve the problem. He said that as there was a lack of both spark and fuel then it was likely to be a problem with the ECU or maybe the immobiliser. Ever since I have had the car I have never used the immobiliser as I had been told it had been deactivated. I am thinking it might be related to the frayed earth cable and the ECU?

 

Anyway I have done a few searches on here and found that Corrado starting problems seem to be pretty common. The main causes seem to be:

 

1. Ignition switch - I get the impression that this would not affect fuel injection?

 

2. Ignition amplifier - again is this a spark only issue?

 

3. ECU - Am I right in assuming that this would control both spark and fuel injection and could be the likely problem?

 

4. Dizzy problems - the AA guy checked this out and said this was fine but is this a spark only issue?

 

5. Idle Stabilisation Valve - does this affect fuel and spark and would cause the engine not to start.

 

Anyway, it would be great to get some pointers, especially from people who have had the same no spark, no fuel, no start problem.

[iggi 0]

hi. i had a similar problem. didnt happen while driving though. it started when my dizzy fell apart. bought a new one. fitted it. wouldnt start. spent an age tracing that fault, then realised i was getting no fuel! fuel distributor had packed in at same time . no pressure at the bolts on top of fuel distributor, or coming out of injectors while cranking. coincedence i think. totally seperate systems though. repaired it all myself and im no genius! :lol:

[16vrixter 0]

Yeah, thanks that's a good point Iggi, it could maybe be two different problems.

 

Another problem is I was up in Glasgow when it happened and had to leave the car up there, 300 miles away, as I needed to go back to work. So I have to wait to next weekend until I can have a better look at it again.

[16vrixter 0]

Also, forgot to ask whether you could use a Golf Mk2 1.8 16v Gti ECU in the 1.8 16v Corrado as well? There seems to be more of those on EBAY compared to Corrado ECU.

[saysomestuff 0]

The ignition switch could be to blame.

 

I had it go on my passat and it would turn & spark but not fire. I'd try a new one of those first if I were you, they can be responsible for so many random issues.

[iggi 0]

im not 100% sure they exactly the same ecu, but i dont know why they would be different. it only controls the spark. what i did was get someone who had a barrel-load of spares and went thru the old trial and error technique to find what the problem was. i think the other ecu i had was a golf. i was just lucky i knew someone with all the spares!! :lol:

[mattkh 0]

Hi

Replace the ignition switch.

Repair the badly frayed earth wire.

[16vrixter 0]

Thanks for the advice.

 

The frayed earth wire has been replaced. I will have a go at replacing the ignition switch.

 

Just out of interest, does the ignition switch affect the fuel supply in some way?

[stevef182 0]

i have had this problem and am still kinda trying to solve it..once i fix one thing, something else seems to go..the fuses might be fine but the connection to the fuse box itself could be loose..this was one of the problems with mine..if not try the ignition switch..thats the next thing on my list to try!

[16vrixter 0]

Cheers Steve. I will try the fuse box connection as well. So do you have intermittent starting problems then?

[mattkh 0]

Thanks for the advice.Just out of interest, does the ignition switch affect the fuel supply in some way?

 

Hi

The current to the fuel relay will go through the ignition switch, so yes the ignition switch does affect the fuel supply.

[davidwort 0]

no spark - suspect hall sender, haynes passat/golf manual tells you basic checks for this resistance etc.

golf 16v ECU's are basically the same, some really old ones have a diff part no. and are in fact better as they have a more agressive ignition advance, they rarely have faults though.

 

fuel, check pump is priming the system, no buzz is not good, they always make a priming noise and buzz when the car is running.

 

If you loosen the fuel supply feed to the metering head with everything turned off and a rag around the banjo you'll loose a little fuel as the system depressurises. tighten it back up again.

Turn the ignition on and off a few times and the system should prime up and there will be fuel pressure in the feed to the metering head again all being well.

left for 30 minutes there should still be full pressure, in fact it shoul hold pressure pretty much permanently.

 

Lift the metering head up off the air filter - un-clip and check the air plate moves freely and smoothly up, don't force it, but there should be gentle smooth resitance.

 

You may need to get all the system pressures checked with proper gauges should the basic K-jet checks look OK.

[16vrixter 0]

Thanks for the posts and info on the fuel supply system.

The AA guy already tested the hall sender and said it seemed ok.

I think I will try changing the ignition switch first and see how it goes from there.

 

BRAND NEW GENUINE VOLKSWAGEN IGNITION STARTER SWITCH ordered via ebay - VAG part number 6N0 905 865. I live round the corner from a GSF store but I think I read some where on here that the GSF part is inferior compared to the VAG part.

 

Pictures given below for other peoples benefit:

[davidwort 0]

6NO that will be the revised polo part.

[16vrixter 0]

Yeah I think the part is used in a host of different VWs.

Have they revised it to hopefully make it more reliable?

Have been led to believe that it should fit the 1990 16v and it is listed in the ignition switch repair part in the knowledge base section of the forum.

[Supercharged 2]

Yep thats the one mate - you can test it by just plugging in without fitting and turning with the end of the key...

 

- Car out of gear tho and make sure the steering lock is off before you drive it :lol:

[16vrixter 0]

Yeah cheers, I'll remember that steering lock...... :)

[16vrixter 0]

Yep thats the one mate - you can test it by just plugging in without fitting and turning with the end of the key...

 

- Car out of gear tho and make sure the steering lock is off before you drive it :lol:

 

Drove the 300 miles up to Glasgow in my polo with the new ignition switch for the valver.....

 

Tried testing it by plugging it in without fitting and turning with the end of the key. Would you expect the engine to start? I got a clicking / switching noise from the relay area, is that what you would expect?

 

Trying to remove the small screw that holds the ignition switch in is a real challenge. I think I need to get a jewellery cross head screw driver. I used a 0 (zero) point small screw driver that I previously used to dismantle my laptop with but the shaft :oops: was too thick to fit through the small hole.

[mattkh 0]

Hi

The clicking noises are a good sign BUT you do not say if the engine did turn and fired up. You should check this before fitting the new switch in.

 

Some members suggest bending the screw driver to reach the screw.

 

can you put a picture of the switch and also the location of the hole

[16vrixter 0]

Hi matt. Sorry should have said that the engine didn't turn and fire up but I wasn't sure if it was supposed to without being fully fitted.

 

Just have this picture of the switch and the hole but it doesn't convey how really difficult it is to get to the screw.... I don't have a picture of the old switch located in it's housing.

[mattkh 0]

Hi

Thanks for the reply.

With the tip of the key in the new ignition switch and turning the key, how many positions can you feel, 3 ?

By the way put the battery on charge as well.

[Supercharged 2]

Hmmm - the new switch should at least crank the engine over (I take it this was ok before and it just didn't fire?)

 

As above check you are turning the new switch all the way (should get dash lights on pos 2 and position 3 sends 12v's down the red/black line to the starter solenoid)

 

Relay click is a good sign but you could just now have a dead battery as above...

 

Hall Sender - I'm fairly sure this should spark when you turn the rotor arm with just the ignition in stage 2 - not sure how the AA guy tested this was ok but got no spark??

[16vrixter 0]

Hi again. Before I unplugged the old switch, I had a go on the ignition and it did crank the engine over but it didn't fire up.

 

The car has been left standing for three weeks and so the battery won't be in great condition but I left it disconnected hoping it wouldn't discharge too fast.

 

Didn't notice how many positions but I turned the key as far as it would go - about half a revolution.

 

I am staying about 10 miles away from where the car is at the moment - will have another go at turning the switch when I get over there.

 

Might have to get some local mechanics involved as I am too far away in Derby and probably don't have the skills to get the car up and running quick enough. For example, it took me what seemed like ages to fit a new starter motor before, that damn bush :roll: .

 

There is a garage called IN TUNE, in Glasgow, if anyone has used them.

They have auto electricians, are just around the corner from where the car is and will also pick up the car for me. Might have to put the front car seat back in first - it's in the boot at the moment :lol:. Removed it as per ignition switch removal instructions.

 

With regard to the hall sender. I remember the AA guy checking voltage to it and he got me to switch on the ignition. I am sure he checked the signal from it as well and said it was ok.

 

Thanks for all your advice and help.

[16vrixter 0]

Had another go and gave it a bit more welly. The new switch did crank the engine over but it didn't start. Maybe the battery is too weak. It was raining heavy so didn't hear the pump prime but could smell petrol.

 

Going back out now the rain is off to see if I can hear pump prime. Will put the battery on trickle charge and try again tommorow.

[trevor 0]

good luck. . its hard to help with these sorts of problem over the net . i know . but help is on hand with questions . . can't fault vw people for that side of things