Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
gogsboy

Normal Battery drain.

Recommended Posts

Still having some odd battery issues, wonder if anyone knows what the normal drop you would expect from a fully charged 55ah battery.

 

I fully charged it, left to rest and it was saying 12.72, decided to leave it off car for a couple of days to see how it would perform.

 

After a day it was showing 12.66 and after a further day its now 12.62.

 

If this normal for a battery taking into consideration its been relatively baltic up north?

 

Tomorrow I will try this fuse pulling mularky, I only have one of those multimeters, is it just a case of looking at one of them while someome pulls each fuse one by one.

 

Have heard about Corrados having dodgy earths, where should I be looking for this and whats best way to clean them up etc.

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I fully charged it, left to rest and it was saying 12.72, decided to leave it off car for a couple of days to see how it would perform.

 

After a day it was showing 12.66 and after a further day its now 12.62.

 

Sounds fine. Hardly going anywhere.. It'll still start the car till it reaches about 11.8V (though it'll struggle).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds fine. Hardly going anywhere.. It'll still start the car till it reaches about 11.8V (though it'll struggle).

 

Well battery is good then, thanks for confirming, I was starting to wonder if the battery might be the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

or take it to your local kwik fit Hi-Q etc and ask them to do a battery test on it, if they do a drop test on it, thats the way to finally kill a dieing battery :p so they might want to do that. then they can sell you a new one of course :), just dont get a battery from halfords they cost about twice what i sell em for and they have the same if less guarentee!. visit your local A1 motorstore and see if they can help ya :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
or take it to your local kwik fit Hi-Q etc and ask them to do a battery test on it, if they do a drop test on it, thats the way to finally kill a dieing battery :p so they might want to do that. then they can sell you a new one of course :), just dont get a battery from halfords they cost about twice what i sell em for and they have the same if less guarentee!. visit your local A1 motorstore and see if they can help ya :p

 

Kwik fit...mmm last time heard of them was when my Dad went with other halfs Golf GTI as it was a bit loud, apparently it needed a full system at around £300 or something stupid as cat was gassed too..

 

Turns out it needed a bolt or two, my mate sorted it for nothing and yes it's still on that same exahaust :D

 

I had read a few bits on the site about batteries and some seem to recommend Halfords calcium ones if have a card for discount.

 

Local motor stores...well I'm no mechanic but asked for a front brake hose the other day...turns out they gave me the rear, I mean, how difficult can it be :D

 

This battery I have still has the reciept from last owner and think its a 3 yr warranty and it was peanuts, he had some sort of account.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

to be fair to the motorstore, its not always the person who orderings fault, they might of asked for the right part but had the factor deliver it wrong, unless where you go is direct to the motor factors, in that case there just numptys lol. im not saying that halfords batteries aren't any good im saying there relativly expensive as to what i sell the same battery with longer warrenty for. eg 063 (3year at our local halfords) around the £70-80 mark, i sell the same battery with 4 year guarentee for £49-99 (063+) and its one of the Moura Intelligent batteries. 8)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
to be fair to the motorstore, its not always the person who orderings fault, they might of asked for the right part but had the factor deliver it wrong, unless where you go is direct to the motor factors, in that case there just numptys lol. im not saying that halfords batteries aren't any good im saying there relativly expensive as to what i sell the same battery with longer warrenty for. eg 063 (3year at our local halfords) around the £70-80 mark, i sell the same battery with 4 year guarentee for £49-99 (063+) and its one of the Moura Intelligent batteries. 8)

 

Sounds like a good price, will keep that in mind, are this Moura ones on par with the likes of more in your face names so to speak?

 

Is this available at the A1 store to joe bloggs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with dr_mat.

 

IMO far too many batteries are ditched when there is nothing much wrong with them.

The Corrado appears to have idiosyncratic battery drainage problems.

 

I believe a scarcity of lead has put car batteries at an all time high price - I saw Halfords calcium for Corrado was almost £100 the other week :shock: .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Riley mentioned this on the forum before...

 

'Disconnect the earth lead from the battery.

 

run a wire from battery earth to one pin on an indicater bulb.

 

run a wire from the earth lead on the car to the other pin on the bulb.

 

You may find that it lights up better than your headlights if there is a drain.'

 

So basciallyu had a bash at this and the bulb seems to light up sometimes but not always,, connections seem pretty good and sometimes it flashes on/off very rapidly.

 

Any more tips on how to suss out this fault, ie idiot proof guide, dont have a leccy box full of tool just a multimeter.

 

Does it not work just getting a battery reading having someone stand look at it and while somoene else pulls fuses, they would see a drop?

 

Also mean to say there is a rat tat tat type of noise when connect coming what seems to be scuttle part at back of engine bay passensger side

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on this finally got the indicator bulb to stay on after getting some better wire, seemed to help.

 

So nice bright bulb and pulled first fuse....still on then pulled second and it goes off, put back in said fuse but the light never came back on..

 

So what does this tell me, the problem has fixed itself....wishfull thinking :D

 

I never got as far as the main line up of fuses the first two I pulled were dangling around.

 

Oh and the light near the gearbox is staying on, the alarm locking thingy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
still on then pulled second and it goes off, put back in said fuse but the light never came back on..

 

So what does this tell me, the problem has fixed itself....wishfull thinking :D

 

It tells you that whatever is on the second fuse is pulling current ... What's the second fuse?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
still on then pulled second and it goes off, put back in said fuse but the light never came back on..

 

So what does this tell me, the problem has fixed itself....wishfull thinking :D

 

It tells you that whatever is on the second fuse is pulling current ... What's the second fuse?

 

Not sure, think got something to do with the central locking/alarm thing.

 

Well the light that is on at the gearstick now never comes on with it pulled out and the button on the keyfob does nothing now.

 

The two that hang down and kinda linked to each other, the bits they go onto are slotted together just to keep together I think.

 

Traced the wiring back up and took off the bottom panel in there and the wire that runs back up from this fuse I have pullled appears to have been joined...badly..I think, well I'm no leccy/mechanic but it looks shit.

 

It was taped up so took off tape to look, seems to have some solder blobbed on it.

 

Does this sound normal or quite the opposite, what I dont get is it's obviously been like this from day one but has not always drained the battery.

 

I could try and take a photo if that would help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Does sound like your alarm, yes. It could be the cause, for sure.

 

So in the professional world of car electrics is what you see in the photo with regards to the join in the wire the done thing?

 

I mean I have done a tiny bit of house electrics in the past and if ever needed to join/extend wire, normally with low voltage stuff I would use a connecting block.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So in the professional world of car electrics is what you see in the photo with regards to the join in the wire the done thing?

 

Who're you calling a professional car electrician?!

 

No idea mate, I've never done any auto electrics, I just put 2+2 together to come to a reasonable conclusion ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So in the professional world of car electrics is what you see in the photo with regards to the join in the wire the done thing?

 

Who're you calling a professional car electrician?!

 

No idea mate, I've never done any auto electrics, I just put 2+2 together to come to a reasonable conclusion ..

 

Not calling anyone...just appealing to anyone who might be more familiar with car electrics and the like than myself.

 

Just got a mechanic to have a look when in for test and he said he doesn't think it looks out of the ordinary.

 

That fuse needs to be in to get the alarm/immob off, what a pain in the neck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...