Slim's G60 Turbo

[junkie 0]

I have the lead but at the moment I can't give it you as my house is upside down decorating hence why I have not sent out all the other bigs of info. I am going to send them but I'm about 3 weeks away I think all been well. I said to James when I dropped the engine off I still had it and he said he has a few so may be worth trying him. Also if you look in the haltech manual it will tell you what lead you need if you want to buy one from pc world or somewhere. There is no software either you just need an older style pc that has DOS. Plug it all in and start up in DOS then follow the instructions in the manual.

[dirtytorque 0]

you can might be able to find dos emulation software from somewhere.I think I have used it once for some obscure piece of hardware..

 

To me one of the benefits of a standalone should be the ability to see different engine parameters etc so i would of thought that the haltech would give yoU a clue.Judging by all that blue smoke it looks like either over fueling or a misfire.

[Slimg60 0]

I have the lead but at the moment I can't give it you as my house is upside down decorating hence why I have not sent out all the other bigs of info. I am going to send them but I'm about 3 weeks away I think all been well. I said to James when I dropped the engine off I still had it and he said he has a few so may be worth trying him. Also if you look in the haltech manual it will tell you what lead you need if you want to buy one from pc world or somewhere. There is no software either you just need an older style pc that has DOS. Plug it all in and start up in DOS then follow the instructions in the manual.

 

thats no worries then, I'll call james tomorrow and see what he has (if not Jabba might have one as the car was mapped when james fitted it)

 

you can might be able to find dos emulation software from somewhere.I think I have used it once for some obscure piece of hardware..

 

To me one of the benefits of a standalone should be the ability to see different engine parameters etc so i would of thought that the haltech would give yoU a clue.Judging by all that blue smoke it looks like either over fueling or a misfire.

 

Yep, my running problem turns out to be knackered spark plugs. there's no spark on boost now, and the big blue cloud was when it was diagnosed on the rollers!

[junkie 0]

you can might be able to find dos emulation software from somewhere.I think I have used it once for some obscure piece of hardware..

 

To me one of the benefits of a standalone should be the ability to see different engine parameters etc so i would of thought that the haltech would give yoU a clue.Judging by all that blue smoke it looks like either over fueling or a misfire.

 

from what I recall it does not show it in gauge format like some do but it will show what the afr, boost, etc all sensors are doing. The other benefits are more load sites, boost control, nos control, traction control and so on.

[dirtytorque 0]

where does it get its tach sig from btw?

does it use a cam trigger wheel or a crank trigger wheel or something?

Just curious how they did it.

[Slimg60 0]

where does it get its tach sig from btw?

does it use a cam trigger wheel or a crank trigger wheel or something?

Just curious how they did it.

 

erm..at the moment it diesnt, the tacho doesnt work! It has an interface box, but where this signal comes from is unknown to me! perhaps Simon knows :shrug:

[dirtytorque 0]

sorry when i say tach signal i just mean ecu tach signal not the cluster tach. :)

[junkie 0]

All I know is it uses a crank position sensor to know when to fire the plugs so I assume it uses that.

 

What's happening with the cluster rpm then, how come it's not working yet?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Interesting cloud of smoke! :D

 

What plugs are you using and what's the gap?

 

Zetec coils are good if not using them already. They have a very strong spark as Ford had problems igniting idle and part throttle mixtures.

 

The coil dwell time needs to be right aswell, 3ms is usually where you need to be.

 

If the mixture is too rich on boost, that won't help with spark extinguishing issues either.

 

VR6 turbos suffer the same issue at high boost, but they like NGK-R5671A-7 gapped to 0.022". Just thinking as the G60 is also a 2 valve head, the same practices might help?

 

Turbo engines all follow the same basic principals, so something fairly basic is at fault here, but I don't want to stick my oar in too much :D

[Slimg60 0]

Interesting cloud of smoke! :D

 

What plugs are you using and what's the gap?

 

Zetec coils are good if not using them already. They have a very strong spark as Ford had problems igniting idle and part throttle mixtures.

 

The coil dwell time needs to be right aswell, 3ms is usually where you need to be.

 

If the mixture is too rich on boost, that won't help with spark extinguishing issues either.

 

VR6 turbos suffer the same issue at high boost, but they like NGK-R5671A-7 gapped to 0.022". Just thinking as the G60 is also a 2 valve head, the same practices might help?

 

Turbo engines all follow the same basic principals, so something fairly basic is at fault here, but I don't want to stick my oar in too much :D

 

I'm quite impressed by the cloud too, the vido on youtube is even funnier :lol: (search: Lincs Driver Rolling Road)

I have a set of NGK's on order now, and when they turn up it'll be going back for a full diagnosis.

[Slimg60 0]

Video

 

mines at 1:46 :wink:

[Slimg60 0]

scan0001.jpg[/attachment:2ylx6iwe]

 

Not quiet what I wanted :(

[junkie 0]

Very odd looking regardless of power output. Something def a miss obviously. Seems like the fuelings all over for some reason. Can you not get to James or jabba for some investigation or have the garage said a possible cause?

[Slimg60 0]

Very odd looking regardless of power output. Something def a miss obviously. Seems like the fuelings all over for some reason. Can you not get to James or jabba for some investigation or have the garage said a possible cause?

 

Yer, although the spikes in the afr trace are when it was misfiring, so the mixture would be all over the place.

I cant get down to James or Jabba anytime soon, and at the moment I cant drive it either in this condition. Corten are going to fit the new plugs (NGK platinum) and put it back on the roller to check the fuelling throughout the boost range. I keep looking on here at the exhaust off the 1.8t that being broken, 2.5" bore and a single box :norty: it's just the 4" tail pipe thats putting me off at the moment.

[junkie 0]

Au so that's the original run graph and not after putting the new plugs in.

 

Just go and get a custom exhaust made mate. Mne cost 350 at blueflame

[Slimg60 0]

Yeh new plugs arnt in yet and it's sitting there at the moment unloveed :( Corten cant fit it in yet and dont want to fit the plugs without knowing the fuelings ok.

I'd love a custom exhaust, just need to find somewhere local that does them (only power flow round here :? ) and I also need to know what I want (one or two box system). Failing that, it's going to be a jetex system instead of my miltek.

[junkie 0]

I had a 3 box system and 2.75" bore with 2.5" downpipe. Good luck mate hopefully it will be simple and quick to get sorted, usually always seem bad and turn out to be nothing.

[Slimg60 0]

I had a 3 box system and 2.75" bore with 2.5" downpipe. Good luck mate hopefully it will be simple and quick to get sorted, usually always seem bad and turn out to be nothing.

 

I want to ideally get my hands on a Jetex system as these are 2.5" bore off the shelf.

What plugs did you use to run with Simon? I'm just wondering why the G60 plugs have been cooked in less that 1000 miles :(

[dirtytorque 0]

maybe they are just fouled because of over fueling.So less of a spark plug issue,more of a fueling issue.....

[junkie 0]

Just the standard G60 platinums mate. They used to always get cokes up hence why they only lasted 5-10k off memory but only caused an issue at 6k. I put it down to the fact that 1 it's running nearly twice the original power than they were designed for and 2 the cold start could be a pain in the arse taking sometimes several attempts all depending on the ambient temp, if freezing cold in winter it took ages and summer almost always on the 1st turn sometimes second. Once I mastered it the plugs lasted longer. But James has got the ignition adjustment pot on for you which I never had and as far as I'm aware that should now make it start on the turn of the key practically.

 

Before you start it are you letting the fuel pump prime because during that time the ecu is collecting data from the sensors for the cold start, I think from the water temp sensor so it knows how much enrichment to do on cold start/water temp map of I recall correctly. If your key in igntion and cranking Instantly then it's not calibrating and defaulting onto a standard set of rules.

 

When I had the innovate on it would read 11-12 afr on cold start which I think is too rich and coking the plugs if it does not start the 1st or 2nd attempt, and the more attempts it takes the harder it is to start each time until it does and then once started could run quite lumpy until upto temp but once there the afr was a nice healthy Reading but can't remember what now.

 

All this may be totally irrelevant now though as James has changed stuff.

[Slimg60 0]

Always let the pump prime itself, even if it cuts out trying to cold start.

Is the cold start issue a map problem or is it due to the spec of the engine?

On the colder mornings it would really struggle, taking several attemps and then gentle throttle inputs to keep it idling. It would also run noticeably cooler (water 80 degree's)

Just laid claim to the Innovate on here so hopefully get that fitted and can watch the fuelling that way.

[junkie 0]

Yea I used to as well so all good there.

 

It is a map issue on cold start but as you can imagine it is not easy to get it to be perfect as you get 5 mins each morning to get it right. I was told you need a very small throttle input,what took me ages to figure out was how small an input on the throttle is needed it almost felt like I was not touching the pedal. Once started it will idle around 500-600 rpm but rises naturally within a couple of minutes, if you were giving more throttle initially whilst cranking it would cut out.

 

Standalones are renowned for been poor with cold start, ask kev he will tell you. He has his sorted now but it's took a long while to do and that's with him been able to tweak his ecu all self taught through trial and error. I just got used to starting it and put up with it and changing the plugs a couple times a year.

 

I remember biggerbigben having the same issues with his on the 20v on haltech the plugs would need regular cleaning, it's all just down to the fact that it's mapped by 1 guy who knows his stuff but has not got the millions to spend like OE stuff has had on it.

[Slimg60 0]

Well she's off on Sunday to be sorted, I'm able to leave it there all week so they have a couple of morning to look at the cold map.

Also have a Jetex system on it's way, so now have no worries about my restrictive Milltek.

Cant wait til next weekend now to pick her up and be able to thrash the ar$e off her :lol:

[junkie 0]

Another thing that may help is fitting a mk1 mechanical idle valve.

[Slimg60 0]

been looking into my running problem. removed the crank sensor and it was thick with grime, but going to order a new coil pack and some 8mm leads.

Other than that, just need to fit my new Jetex exhaust in place of my Milltek.

Old milltek on the left

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