The Hub 0 Posted June 7, 2008 Hi all, I've just been looking in the WIKI and noticed there is a guide for upgrading to 312 brakes for the VR6. I am about to upgrade the brakes on my 16v to G60 fronts and MK4 rears and was wondering if anyone who has carried out these upgrades would be willing to do a similar guide so I know I dont' miss anything. I know this takes alot of time to compile but think I it would be useful to alot of members. If this is too much of a hassle has anyone got any tips or pointers of things that may be easily over looked. I've also read the WIKI guide for Front brakes removal and refitting so got a few pointers from that :) Thanks in advance for any help :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Hub 0 Posted June 8, 2008 Anyone willing to help ??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 8, 2008 I've done G60 fronts and was going to write a guide but never got round to it. I've got all the pics on the other computer, I'll post them tonight. Basically, off the top of my head, you need: 11mm brake pipe spanner or good open ended spanner, 13mm spanner/socket, 14mm spanner , 15mm spanner, 19mm and 18mm sockets, ratchet and breaker bar, large phillips screwdriver, Brake fluid, Brake fluid recepticle or easybleed kit, Copper grease, WD40 or similar Wire brush Items that can come in useful but not essential Hammer and punch might be handy Assistant to laugh at you while you swear Tap to clean up the threads on the hub for calliper carrier bolt and locating screw Parts required G60/VR 280mm callipers and carriers. Brakelines (note difference in legnth ~1991) G60/VR6 brake pads G60 brake disks Calliper carrier to hub bolts, New spring clips for solid-flexi hose connection Might need access to copper brake line and flaring tools if all goes badly. Right. Do you need this car to go to work tomorrow? if you do, you might want to think carefuly as you can knacker your solid brake lines and need to make new ones. Jack car up, remove front wheel etc. Take wire brush and poking item and clean up the joint between solid and flexi brake lines, give a large dose of WD40 or similar. Look down the back of the hub and locate the old carrier to hub bolts, liberally does with WD, especially on the ends of the threads, between the hub and disk. Try to loosen solid line to flexi line, make sure the 11mm spanner fits welll and you will not twist it off, if it is really tight, bend the spring clip with pliers or screwdriver to release tension, apply more WD, and using a punch and hammer, clout the union on the flexi line, this might help to free any corrosion off. attack again with spanner until the connection comes loose, nip this back up so it doesn't leak for the time being. It might be the case that this connection will not undo, in which case you will need to make a new solid line up. Do a search for this as it has been covered... Undo the caliper to carrier bolts 2x 13mm with 15mm collars on the inside of the pins, and remove the calliper, you can hang this from the coils by string, or sit it on the wishbone. Remove old pads. Take breaker bar and 19mm socket (I think, could be 17mm) and undo the carrier to hub bolts, these will be chuffing tight no doubt. Remove carrier, and disk (remove locating screw beforehand) you might need to encourage the disk off with a hammer at this point. clean any threads up and fit g60 disk with locating screw, I like to put copper grease between the hub and disk to prevent it sticking next time. fit the g60 carriers, and use new bolts to secure, do these up nice and tight. fit pads(backs and sliding edges copper greased up), calliper and fit bolts loosely, then remove existing calliper flexi line from solid line and fit new calliper flexi line to solid line (minimises losses using this method. I like to open the nipple on the calliper at this point until fluid runs out. Check all bolts are tight, and after checking brake fluid level, bleed brakes. Repeat on other side and feel smug. This method is the same for changing disks too... For Mk4 rears, leave car in gear, handbrake off. Jack car and remove wheel. undo flexi line to solid line connection using method described above. remove handbrake cable clip and using screwdriver to move handbrake pawl, remove cable, remove calliper as described above, refit mk4 unit with conversion hoses, retighten and bleed brake. Job is a gooden.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Hub 0 Posted June 9, 2008 Ta very much, thanks for taking the time to do this :salute: is there torque settings fro the bolts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 9, 2008 Ummm, there are, but I just did mine tight... I'll try to sort pics tonight... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Hub 0 Posted June 9, 2008 Much apprciated mate :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 9, 2008 Here are some pics in no particular order. Sorry for that... Bear in mind the flexi to solid line position is different on later cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites