boost monkey 0 Posted June 23, 2008 Hi team, trying to get my coolant guage on the dash to move from 70degrees for the first time in my ownership, and I found this on the Tex: Does anyone know if this is accurate? I don't think I have TWO of the larger sensors underneath the coolant flange, but I could be wrong. Can anyone confirm or deny it's the top right sensor I need to be swapping? I have a few spares still attached to my other cylinder head! Cheers, Jon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 23, 2008 btw, the needle on the dash has never ever moved... I would be surprised if the coolant is at a permanent 70 degrees! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dec 1 Posted June 23, 2008 KR head has three of the single pin (#5) senders, instead of the two pin (#3) plug in that photo. I cant remember offhand which one of the three is for the temp gauge, but they are all identical, so temporarily swaping the plugs around to check for a reading on the gauge should work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 23, 2008 swapping the leads doesn't work, I remember trying that and even piggybacking leads off other sensors. But as you say there are 3 and they are all the same part# aswell, so I will try to swap some out of the spare head I have and see what happens. Would be nice to have a properly labelled up pic like that one above, but one that is actually accurate! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted June 23, 2008 Aye, the above pic is of a 2.0 16v :) One of the 3 single spade terminals as Dec says :) Just unplug them one by one (1 will make car cut out as it goes to ecu) Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 23, 2008 Cheers Neil! :salute: Well I know the coolant gauge doesn't work, and neither does the thermotime switch as that's the one sheared in the head :brickwall: might try the extractors on that tomorrow, so there must only be 1 of 3 sensors plugged in that's doing anything... anyone know which one actually works on by car then, by a process of elimination?! :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted June 23, 2008 Afraid i can't remember which colour wire it is mate :oops: its years since ive been involved with valvers (apart from recent purchase) So process of elimination it is...What id do is replace the 3 sensors so you know they are good (not expensive) and go from there mate :) I could pop up to my unit tommorow where the valver is, and see which colour wire it is for ya if you want like? Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted June 24, 2008 yellow with red tracer, if you earth it the gauge should shoot up to max, this tests gauge is ok Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 24, 2008 Awesome, cheers flusted. I just went out and earthed it with a screwdriver on the chassis and nothing's happening so I guess it is indeed dead! That means whatever is controlled by the blue/white wire is the 1 out of 3 sensor that's working! :pale: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 24, 2008 Sounds like swapping these sensors out would be good Wiki write-up material :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 24, 2008 yellow with red tracer, if you earth it the gauge should shoot up to max, this tests gauge is ok Wait a mo....that means my DASH GAUGE is dead? :sad: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 25, 2008 Bump for an answer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted June 25, 2008 Im pretty sure its when you just disconnect the wire that the gauge will read max. Same as it does when the sender in the expansion tank is broken. It dosn't mean your gauge is knackered yet mate...Does your coolant light flash? It could be the wiring which isn't as simple as you think it would be as it works in conjunction with expansion tank sender. Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 25, 2008 Yeah coolant light flashes when ignition's on, then goes off when the engine starts. Is it worth swapping in one of my spare sensors and seeing if I get a reading off that, or is it way more likely to be wiring? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted June 25, 2008 Aye, thats what i would do mate...stick a known working sensor in, stick a new spade terminal on the wire and if that dosn't work, then work your way back from there. :) Just strange how swapping them didn't work though...Im trying to rack my brains remembering how it all works. Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 25, 2008 I haven't swapped anything as of yet! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 25, 2008 Thanks for the help though :grin: I have a spare sensor, I just don't know if it works or not. Can I do a boiling water trick on it or anything? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kentyboy 0 Posted June 28, 2008 i asked this question at the start of june but all i got back was a stupid answer saying there are lots and lots and lots and lots of answers on this forum,where are they then boost monkey,i thought that you would have looked there and found the answers,hence i only got one reply and had to work it out for myself cheers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 28, 2008 :lol: Who knows mate, I always search but didn't find anything specific to Early 16v engines. Might just go ask on a Mk2 forum! :cuckoo: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites