bad2vbone 0 Posted September 15, 2008 Hiya, Not a regular, but had a VR6 rado for a few years with 140k miles on the clock. Just discovered while sticking in a fresh set of hydraulic cam followers last week that the upper timing chain tensioner has just started to catch the top rivets. Had a quote I thought quite reasonable of £500 to change all tensioners (the curved metal bits, the plastic guides, and the oil pressure operated tensioner bolt itself), both chains and a new clutch-it has done 140k after all, with genuine parts including labour at a specialist. While they've got it that far apart, any suggestions on anything else that could and should be changed? Have had a search but couldn't find any similar q's, did find a very good quide of how to change them if i was keen enough myself though!! Many thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted September 15, 2008 That's not a bad price really. Swap rear engine mount as it will be a lot easier with it all in bits. Get mk4 style solid plastic upper tensioner and bolt. New cam position sensor (if it's a coilpack car) Main crank oil seal (imagine that's included in the price) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zak 0 Posted September 15, 2008 have a read through of the timing chains how to in the knowledge base, it has a comprehensive list of parts to change while doing the job. Off the top of my head in addition to the parts you have mentioned i would also change the lower crankshaft seal, the clutch lever arm and inspect the thermostat housing and coolant transfer pipe and associated hoses and replace if necessary. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted September 16, 2008 The only other thing I can think of is the chain intermediate shaft. It goes off into the head to drive the oil pump, and they can get rattly with old age. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 16, 2008 Actually it goes through the block and it's the bearings that fail, not the shaft itself.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted September 16, 2008 Actually it goes through the block and it's the bearings that fail, not the shaft itself.... Durrr of course I meant block. Doh! Presumably the bearings can be replaced at the same time, but it's for sure impossible to replace them without taking the chains off.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bad2vbone 0 Posted September 16, 2008 Hey, Thanks guys, that's a pretty comphrehensive list! I'll giv them a bell 2moro &see how much they add on 4that lil lot. Rear engine mount might be a no no, i think they are planning on just lowering the engine on the gearbox side 2do the work so could add alota time 2do the job if i ask 4that, i'll c. They sound quite confident, say they've done a few of them, company is vw specialists RK Engineering btw, don't know if anyone's ever heard of them?!! Hopefully all thermostat housing is ok, had a new rad, thermo and electric water pump a couple years back and i went through all that then. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites