bananawhip 0 Posted September 21, 2008 Right I posted on here a while ago that after fitting my SP 263's my VR developed a lack of spark to cylinders 2 and 5, well that problem is still with me and it's getting depressing now. This is what I've replaced so it definately isn't... Plugs Leads Coil pack ECU Battery All I know is when I remove the wire to the cam position sensor it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the idle, I fitted a new trigger wheel when I fitted the cams, if it's a duff one could it cause these symptoms? Also my engine loom looks a touch iffy but I'm probably just speculating now. I currently have no MOT so driving it around to put it on VAG-COM isn't an option, so it's trial and error. Somebody must have an idea as it's got me and my local vag specialist mechanic stumped!! Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted September 22, 2008 Could there be a broken connection in the big multipin engine loom plug? Have heard of difficult to trace gremlins being caused by broken connections there... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bananawhip 0 Posted September 22, 2008 Could there be a broken connection in the big multipin engine loom plug? Have heard of difficult to trace gremlins being caused by broken connections there... Yeah this is what I'm thinking, I sprayed wd40 into the end of the loom which made no difference. Saying that though if I pull the loom around it does change the sound of the idle, nearly sounds as if I'm running on 3 cylinders if I push down on it so I'm thinking loose connections/damaged loom somewhere. Are the symptoms definately not indicative of a knackered trigger wheel/CPS? as I'd love to be able to rule those out without taking it all apart again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 22, 2008 Spraying WD40 in there won't fix a broken connector because it's a di-electric formula (won't conduct electricity) :salute: hpoe you get it sorted out, deffo have a very close look at wiring, it can get so brittle form the engine heat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted September 22, 2008 Spraying WD40 in there won't fix a broken connector because it's a di-electric formula (won't conduct electricity) :salute: But it would force any moisture out. I'd be looking at the plug, and the connections to and from it. Try the continuity between the coilpack and ecu. Hope you get it sorted soon Tom. Tom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted September 22, 2008 Yes, that's a given. But as the question was for a broken connector then it's not gonna bridge the gap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 22, 2008 If you're sure cyls 2 and 5 aren't firing, that's where you need to start your investigation. From memory, in the coilpack's plug, you have the following:- Brown - earth Black - 12V Brown/Black - Cyls 1 and 6 Blue/Black - Cyls 3 and 4 Purple/Black - Cyls 2 and 5 The blue and purple ones could be the other way round, it's been a while since I've use standard parts. But trace the wire for 2/5 and check for breaks / shorts. If the cam sensor was dead, it failsafes to the crank sensor, but runs in batched injection mode and heavily retarted ignition....but all cylinders still run. If the cam trigger wheel was duff, none of the cylinders would fire sequentially, same symptoms as dead cam sensor. Plugs wouldn't prevent a spark unless seriously oil fouled. My money's on a loom issue, since you've changed every thing else. Have you got a meter with a continuity buzzer? If so, find the wire for cyls 2 and 5 on the ECU plug and continuity check that pin to the pin in the coil pack. No buzz, no circuit! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bananawhip 0 Posted September 22, 2008 I am 100% certain 2 and 5 don't even attempt to fire, Looks like all routes lead to the engine loom Which leads me to my next question, can it be fixed by a standard mechanic or is it easier to replace the whole loom? If the latter then will an obd1 golf fit as they are easier to come by? Thanks for everyones help so far Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 22, 2008 I'll say again shall I? Have you got a meter with a continuity buzzer? If so, find the wire for cyls 2 and 5 on the ECU plug and continuity check that pin to the pin in the coil pack. No buzz, no circuit! It won't take a minute with a soldering iron to rejoin a broken wire. It can only break in 2 places usually. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites