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bananawhip

Can anyone fix the unfixable car???

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Right I posted on here a while ago that after fitting my SP 263's my VR developed a lack of spark to cylinders 2 and 5, well that problem is still with me and it's getting depressing now.

 

This is what I've replaced so it definately isn't...

 

Plugs

Leads

Coil pack

ECU

Battery

 

All I know is when I remove the wire to the cam position sensor it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the idle, I fitted a new trigger wheel when I fitted the cams, if it's a duff one could it cause these symptoms? Also my engine loom looks a touch iffy but I'm probably just speculating now.

 

I currently have no MOT so driving it around to put it on VAG-COM isn't an option, so it's trial and error.

 

Somebody must have an idea as it's got me and my local vag specialist mechanic stumped!!

 

Cheers

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Could there be a broken connection in the big multipin engine loom plug? Have heard of difficult to trace gremlins being caused by broken connections there...

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Could there be a broken connection in the big multipin engine loom plug? Have heard of difficult to trace gremlins being caused by broken connections there...

 

Yeah this is what I'm thinking, I sprayed wd40 into the end of the loom which made no difference.

 

Saying that though if I pull the loom around it does change the sound of the idle, nearly sounds as if I'm running on 3 cylinders if I push down on it so I'm thinking loose connections/damaged loom somewhere.

 

Are the symptoms definately not indicative of a knackered trigger wheel/CPS? as I'd love to be able to rule those out without taking it all apart again.

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Spraying WD40 in there won't fix a broken connector because it's a di-electric formula (won't conduct electricity) :salute:

 

hpoe you get it sorted out, deffo have a very close look at wiring, it can get so brittle form the engine heat.

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Spraying WD40 in there won't fix a broken connector because it's a di-electric formula (won't conduct electricity) :salute:

 

But it would force any moisture out.

 

I'd be looking at the plug, and the connections to and from it. Try the continuity between the coilpack and ecu.

 

Hope you get it sorted soon Tom.

 

Tom.

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If you're sure cyls 2 and 5 aren't firing, that's where you need to start your investigation.

 

From memory, in the coilpack's plug, you have the following:-

 

Brown - earth

Black - 12V

Brown/Black - Cyls 1 and 6

Blue/Black - Cyls 3 and 4

Purple/Black - Cyls 2 and 5

 

The blue and purple ones could be the other way round, it's been a while since I've use standard parts.

 

But trace the wire for 2/5 and check for breaks / shorts.

 

If the cam sensor was dead, it failsafes to the crank sensor, but runs in batched injection mode and heavily retarted ignition....but all cylinders still run.

 

If the cam trigger wheel was duff, none of the cylinders would fire sequentially, same symptoms as dead cam sensor.

 

Plugs wouldn't prevent a spark unless seriously oil fouled.

 

My money's on a loom issue, since you've changed every thing else.

 

Have you got a meter with a continuity buzzer? If so, find the wire for cyls 2 and 5 on the ECU plug and continuity check that pin to the pin in the coil pack. No buzz, no circuit!

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I am 100% certain 2 and 5 don't even attempt to fire, Looks like all routes lead to the engine loom

 

Which leads me to my next question, can it be fixed by a standard mechanic or is it easier to replace the whole loom?

 

If the latter then will an obd1 golf fit as they are easier to come by?

 

Thanks for everyones help so far

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I'll say again shall I?

 

Have you got a meter with a continuity buzzer? If so, find the wire for cyls 2 and 5 on the ECU plug and continuity check that pin to the pin in the coil pack. No buzz, no circuit!

 

It won't take a minute with a soldering iron to rejoin a broken wire. It can only break in 2 places usually.

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