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samthegram

samthegrams 2ltr 16v, now 180bhp!!

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Done it! Had to brush about 10cm of snow off the C' first though and i thought I had better fire it up as I have not touched it since the snow started 3 weeks ago. Battery struggled but it did fire first time :D . The suede feels good and not as cold to hold in the winter, Can't wait 'til the snow goes so I can give it a drive.

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A bit blurry, took it with my camera phone.

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also took a pic of the tunelnessness for Kempy.

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My sunroof has been leakin, and I've swapped my dash. so whilst the cars been stripped. Decided to remove the tired old soggy sound deadening, bagged it up and it came to 15kg, now just lookin for a suitable replacement, good sound proofing/light weight/good price, If ya intrested I'll let ya know how I get on.

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Finally got round to having it weighed, found a local factory with a weighbridge accurate to within 10kg. I just asked nicely and they said yeah, no probs. The actual weight then is 1050kg +/- 5kg , with a 1/4 tank of fuel, so not quite in line with the VW handbook weight but like I said before still 100kg lighter than before and significantly lighter than a VR. Now to get an up to date rolling road read out after a few more engine tweeks :norty:

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excellent!

100kg is a fair old weight, you've got it down to mk2 golf territory,

seems like the VW figures are right, 1150kg for an early 1.8 valver, not sure about a late 2L,

you've got a later car with a sunroof, large fuel tank, ABS and lots of small changes that would make it more than 1150kg

I can't remember, does the manual list kerb weight or empty weight with fluids but no fuel or driver?

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Not sure of finer details of kerb weight etc.. but the wiki and the brochure says 1100kg .

 

yeah, I'm sure that's empty with no sunroof, ABS, electric windows, adjustable steering column and the 1.8 engine with small fuel tank, lol!

looks like they didn't update the info if your 2L manual says 1100.

 

Have you done a fixed steering column? they're much lighter than the heavy UJ adjustable one.

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Whilst it goes against the grain of the praise in this thread, I've got to say your top harness mounts suck balls. You would be safer with three point belts. Harnesses need a proper mounting bar, welded into something like a proper rollcage.

 

Using the rear seatbelt top mounts provides points which haven't been designed to strain in the direction you're loading them in an accident, so they might well tear out, which could do serious damage to your back as your unrestrained torso flops violently forward on to that rather nice wheel.

 

Sorry, just an observation. The rest looks cool.

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Have you done a fixed steering column? they're much lighter than the heavy UJ adjustable one.

maybe a couple of kilo's but looking at your instruction thread it seems a little too complicated for me! Mine hasn't got any play anyway. Thanks for the idea though.

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Whilst it goes against the grain of the praise in this thread, I've got to say your top harness mounts suck balls. You would be safer with three point belts. Harnesses need a proper mounting bar, welded into something like a proper rollcage.

 

Using the rear seatbelt top mounts provides points which haven't been designed to strain in the direction you're loading them in an accident, so they might well tear out, which could do serious damage to your back as your unrestrained torso flops violently forward on to that rather nice wheel.

 

Sorry, just an observation. The rest looks cool.

Steady on there! I was going off the advice that the guy who I bought them off told me. He said try to keep the harnesses as horizontal as possible and to mount them to the original mounting points if I wasn't fitting a cage as they would be strong enough. I think his advice was sound as he specializes in converting road cars to track/rally cars. I appriciate the thought though, thanks.

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In my instruction manual i states-

16v 100kw(with cat) 1175kg

without cat 1150

G60 118kw 1155

VR6 140kw 1210

 

it looks like you have done well to get it to 1050 ! :D

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I was going off the advice that the guy who I bought them off told me.

 

There's your screw-up, right there.

 

There's not really any safe and correct way of fitting harnesses without a cage.

 

Plus those are 2" straps, which are renowned as collarbone snappers.

 

Plus they're only four-point, so there's nothing to stop you submarining down in an impact - further spinal damage.

 

Plus, with the mounting point offset they're try and pull the seats across under duress, too.

 

Sorry, but poorly fitted harnesses are a bugbear of mine. People fit them as if they're some sort of safety improvement, when normally they're detrimental to passenger safety.

 

Let's not get started on half and 'show' cages.....

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great thread, amazing all the little things adding up to mean 100+kg lost!

 

Unless its a trade secret, could you post up some info on the carpetted shelf thing that covers the boot and rear seat areas? is it just some carpetted wood cut to size? looks very smart, and as i've been running with no rear seats or carpet for a while and know why you'd do it!

 

what are your next plans? enjoy it?

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great thread, amazing all the little things adding up to mean 100+kg lost!

 

Unless its a trade secret, could you post up some info on the carpetted shelf thing that covers the boot and rear seat areas? is it just some carpetted wood cut to size? looks very smart, and as i've been running with no rear seats or carpet for a while and know why you'd do it!

 

what are your next plans? enjoy it?

 

Yes it is just a piece of thin hardboard with black acoustic carpet glued on with spray glue. I just measured up and cut it with a band saw. I have been busy with some engine bay and interior jobs, will post them up later today.

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During these last few snow bound months I have been busy with some engine bay jobs, mainly cosmetic but while I was at it I thought I would improve the breathing, here goes with quite a few pictures;

Removed the inlet manifold which was polished and replaced it with a rather tasty chrome one bought off the 'bay but also from someone on here. Comparison shots of old and new;

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It arrived with the inside nicely cleaned out and the tubular bores smoothed. That gave me some ideas.....

Next I cleaned up the throttle body exterior and interior and set about porting and knife edging the butterflies

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After that i took off the lower inlet manifold and set about cleaning it up. I removed the injector housings which i didn't even know were brass ('cos they were so black) and shined them up, then spent about 5hrs (not all in one go!) smoothing, porting and gasket matching the inside of the tubes. Then I gave it a nice coating of wrinkle black heat resistant paint.

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Whilst I had the paint on the go I cleaned up and painted the rocker cover too.

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I then re-assembled using plenty of stainless dome nuts, washers and cap head bolts and some nice new gaskets in the process.

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Also in the pics is a lovely polished alloy header tank and power steering tank bought from andy665, and one of crazy daves slimline fan set ups.Cheers Andy and Dave

 

Finally one or two more chrome parts to feast your eyes on,

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shifter weight and cable bracket.

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bonnet pins (on a super duper carbon bonnet bought from jetta16v, cheers Neal.)

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bonnet latch.

Phew! that's enough for the time being, it's exhausting this corrado ownership 8)

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the water reservoir looks like the thing that held flubber in the film no? :shrug:

 

:lol: :cuckoo:

 

 

What pipe work is that you used? cant seam to find any for a valver

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the water reservoir looks like the thing that held flubber in the film no? :shrug:

a bit random :cuckoo: , i'll take your word for it :lol:

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What pipe work is that you used? cant seam to find any for a valver

It is Samco, listed to fit a mk2 16v golf, they don't list one for the c. Fits perfect though, just wondering whether or not to order up some matching lengths to fit the heater pipes.

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