need some advise on parts for my vr rebuild

[Chris 0]

my vr is stripped and ready for it rebuild, im only redoing the head as the block is fine.

 

ive been having a look around and decided to buy my bits from mjm autohaus http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=2_4_19_241 as there prices arent too bad and they ship via usps, so hopefully no duty tax on top of the shipping - if anyone knows of a better place please say, im trying to keep this as budget as possible

 

 

ill start with the arp hardware- is it more worthwhile getting the full kit (main studs, head studs & rod bolts) or should i just get the head studs and the rod bolts? it will be turbo'd during the year

 

timing chain kit - is the obd2 kit a good one to go for (it all fits ok doesnt it?) heres the link - http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_4_19_241_3847&info=OEM_VAG_021109503A.UPKIT_Timing_Chain_Kit_Dual_Chain_Up_to_1995&products_id=172

 

im going to replace my valve guides and seals too, is there anything else anyone would recommend? is it worth looking into the lightweight cam lifters, valve keepers, retainers or hd springs?

 

lastly, the cams. schrick 263s or the cheaper autotech 262s? http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=2_4_19_241_1406

[Toad 0]

The timing chain kit looks fine.

 

I'd go for the Shricks, people seem to have gotten very good results for them. For what it's worth, the shrick cams have a slightly greater lift, slightly more duration (263 degrees vs 262) and same lobe centres, technically giving about 2 degrees more overlap, but I don't know what the actual ramp rates are on the cams.

[dukest 0]

the schrick cams are the 268 ones and are a fair old whack at $749 with todays exchange rates

 

you're probably better off with the schimmel 263s which are cheaper and perform a bit more evenly over the rev range vs the 268s which are quite "toppy". seems like you may have just missed the Group Buy though :( viewtopic.php?f=25&t=71062&start=225

 

oh, and pm on its way back soon - sorry, have been v busy at work this week..

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

Watch out for USPS,it gets handed over to local delevery services in the UK..and usualy parcel sh*t get hold of them,pay the duty fees uprfont and then charge you for them paying the fees up front!...nice of them. :?

 

But yes all the bits will work well,cant say on lightweight stuff,but id say its a good mod to reduce the valvetrain weight.

[Chris 0]

tom - as soon as the bits arrive ill give you a shout matey, if your free to lend a hand that would be welcomed with cups of the finest tea and biscuits :)

 

 

the schrick cams are the 268 ones and are a fair old whack at $749 with todays exchange rates

 

you're probably better off with the schimmel 263s which are cheaper and perform a bit more evenly over the rev range vs the 268s which are quite "toppy". seems like you may have just missed the Group Buy though :( viewtopic.php?f=25&t=71062&start=225

 

oh, and pm on its way back soon - sorry, have been v busy at work this week..

 

 

lol sorry i meant sp 263s, i always mix them up. i think i shall be getting a set of them then. i did enquire about the group buy a couple of weeks back but they had just got the invoice back and were about to pay....too late unfortunately :( i should have been been more on the ball with my plans

 

got your p/m btw, ill sort out your moo-la at some point today

 

Watch out for USPS,it gets handed over to local delevery services in the UK..and usualy parcel sh*t get hold of them,pay the duty fees uprfont and then charge you for them paying the fees up front!...nice of them. :?

 

But yes all the bits will work well,cant say on lightweight stuff,but id say its a good mod to reduce the valvetrain weight.

 

thats a point, i remember pri*k force charging me £40 for the pleasure of picking up my new snowboard bindings last year, ill have to look into the fees

 

what do you reckon about the arp bolts and which ones to go for? full kit or just head studs and rod bolts. the question should be do i really need the main studs with the turbo in mind?

 

is it recommended that when replacing lifters you replace the valves aswell? i may just sort the guides and seals for the time being then replace the rest in one hit next year

[_leon_ 0]

cant comment on the 268s but the 263s are excellent - improved the drive of my VR considerably. plus will suit you better long term if going turbo.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

I would go for head stud and rod bolts,you could go main,but they are strong as they are and that would have to be some serious power to bust them!

 

263....best for FI imop.