Neil VR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 I think something fairly major has gone wrong in the engine... I was on the motorway cruising at at about 80-90 and all temps were normal - water temp slap bang in the middle and oil at about 106-108. Then the water temp rose to the level it usually only goes to in heavy traffic - the notch above the mid line and the oil rose to 110-112. I'm confident that the oil temp rise was as a result of the water temp rise (factory oil cooler/warmer) So I slowed down to 60-70mph upon which time the oil usually comes down pretty quickly by around 4 degrees. This didn't happen abnd the water remained suspiciously high too. My VR is usually very predictable with its temps as I always keep and eye on them knowing the VR runs hot and is susceptible to temperature-related maladies. I reached me destination about 20 miles later and there was water leaking out out somewhere on the left side of the engine, my BMC air filter was a bit wet and the alternator was very wet indeed. It was also making a gut-wrenchingly expensive sounding rattle on tickover and whilst driving. The engine still seemed to rev and pull cleanly though. Now knowing much about the VR, I was guessing at water pump but I don't know where this is located. Also, I checked coolant level in the header tank and the coolant looked fine and hadn't gone down too much, oil levels were fine and there was no emulsion on the underside of the filler cap. I'm going to get it trailered to JMR with any luck on Monday but does anyone have any ideas as to what's wrong with it? Should I prepare myself for a large bill? :brickwall: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted March 1, 2009 Could quite possibly be water pump. There is an upper and lower one so could be either! Not expensive job, but one pump (cant remember which) is a bit tricky to get to. I wouldnt have thought trailering would be necessary as long as you check coolant levels and dont run it too hot should be more than fine. Matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 But you should hear the noise! I just don't want hot spots to build up in the engine as a result of insufficient water flow - the HG was only done 28K ago! I've found a few things using google which sugests it is the water pump given the leaks' location: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1154344 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PROVR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 The water leak & noise aside, I don't think those oil temps are anything to worry about. Mine will often get to that, I think it says in the owners manual that 140 is when you should worry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 Personally if my oil temp got to 140 I'd turn the engine off immediately but I take your point, the temps weren't high per se but they were indicative of a problem. I hope it is the water pump as that sounds like a pretty quick fix Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted March 1, 2009 Personally if my oil temp got to 140 I'd turn the engine off immediately but I take your point, the temps weren't high per se but they were indicative of a problem. I hope it is the water pump as that sounds like a pretty quick fix Sounds like you are doing right thing, you can never be to careful especially as you have only just had your head done. I often see oil temps as high as 125, but then again I should probably slow down LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 LOL - different engines behave differently too - Corrado's especially typically seem to be a real mish-mash with no 2 the same. Have you thought about an oil cooler? They're not big bucks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted March 1, 2009 LOL - different engines behave differently too - Corrado's especially typically seem to be a real mish-mash with no 2 the same. Have you thought about an oil cooler? They're not big bucks. LOL Yeah I have thought about it. But engine seems in pretty fine condition (touch wood). When I eventually need some head work I will probably have one fitted then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted March 1, 2009 sounds to me like it could be the water pump (right area for the leak etc) and it would explain the noise. some water pumps have plastic impellors which can let go with age... also, you had a leak - any cooling system with a leak will run hotter as it doesn't have the necessary seal to keep the pressure in as it builds up with the heat. (water has a higher boiling point when it is under pressure - less pressure, lower boiling point) hope you get it sorted with the minimum of fuss and cost! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 1, 2009 Just replaced my water pump yesterday, first it started as a worn bearing squeal that disappeared after 2-3 mins of driving. A week later it became a very high pitched squeal alongside a loud rattle. Once I get a few bolts from vag to put stuff back together I'm assuming it will be gone. Did you have any running issues? And if you're fine with basic mechanics, the pump is easy change, can walk you through if you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 1, 2009 sounds to me like it could be the water pump (right area for the leak etc) and it would explain the noise. some water pumps have plastic impellors which can let go with age... also, you had a leak - any cooling system with a leak will run hotter as it doesn't have the necessary seal to keep the pressure in as it builds up with the heat. (water has a higher boiling point when it is under pressure - less pressure, lower boiling point) hope you get it sorted with the minimum of fuss and cost! :) It must have lost pressure as there wasn't much of a fizz when I opened the header to check the coolant level. What I don't want are bit of plastic impellor circulatin around the narrow galleys and creating hot spots. Just replaced my water pump yesterday, first it started as a worn bearing squeal that disappeared after 2-3 mins of driving. A week later it became a very high pitched squeal alongside a loud rattle. Once I get a few bolts from vag to put stuff back together I'm assuming it will be gone. Did you have any running issues? And if you're fine with basic mechanics, the pump is easy change, can walk you through if you need. It 'runs' fine apart from the terrible noise which the bearing (I presume) is making. The exhaust 'tone' is normal, no misfires etc. I reckon I could do it but I just don't have the time these days :( Thanks for offer of a walk thro' though - I understand you have to undo the engine mount and cant it up slightly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WigsVR6 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Hi Neil this sounds like the waterpump to me. I had the same noise coming from my vr too and thought it was something more serious. Although the noise wasnt always there it was intermettent and had me thinking of the timing chain ect. However the waterpump finally gave up so i nursed the C to a local garage and had them fix it for me. When I went back to pick the car up the garage showed me the old pump and all but 2 of the impellors had sheared off :shock: I never thought the noise and pump were connected until after the repair now the engine sounds great with no rattles what so ever :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 3, 2009 how loud was the noise? a rattle too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 4, 2009 The noice was pretty loud and sounded very scary All sorted now thanks to JMR taking the car in with no notice and work extra hours to get it fixed :notworthy: :salute: The impellor didn't have a single intact blade and the plastic disc part of the impellor was also sheard. He had to pick it all out of the engine! One of the 'best' he's seen apparently! A new recrod in pump degradation. He also replaced the tensioner which was rattly and horrible and put on a new belt as the old one was cracked and hard. Temperatures now at a rock steady 90 degrees with fresh load of G12+ :clap: He also sorted my occassional erratic idle as I had a split in the inlet trunking as the MAF sensor was confusing the ECU Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WigsVR6 0 Posted March 4, 2009 Great news glad its been sorted out for you :D :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted March 4, 2009 Love it when a plan comes together! Hope mine is as good when I pick it up from the garage in 15 mins.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 4, 2009 :lol: Love it I took a couple of pics of the old one on my phone. How about this for destruction :shock: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted March 5, 2009 nice! glad it all worked out for you - nice and cheap for a change :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SamG40 0 Posted March 5, 2009 Thats it, I'm definetely replacing mine when I change the radiator! I'm changing the pulley tensioner and belt on that side anyway. At least it didnt cause you some serious grief! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted March 5, 2009 A wise precautionary measure. Why the previous owner didn't do it when he had the chains and clutch done along with a top end re-build I'll never know (and put the noisy worn followers back in :cuckoo: ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites