norman16v 0 Posted April 11, 2009 Thought I'd finally be able to solve my idling and stalling problems by fitting a brand new ISV, and for 30 miles last night it seemed like it was sorted but this morning it's business as usual. By that I mean sometimes not idling and cutting out if I don't apply the throttle, and sometimes having the throttle blipping between 1000 and 1100. Should I allow more time for the ECU to adjust to the new ISV or assume that the problem lies elsewhere? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 11, 2009 1.8 16V I assume? vacuum leaks are a favourite at idle as the manifold vacuum is at it's highest, you need to check there's no leaks in the various vacuum pipes (the rubber connectors), and the rubber connecting section of the intake system from airbox to throttle body can split and cause varying idle problems as the splits open and close as the engine moves and vibrates, some carb celaner or WD 40 spray around the area should affect the revs as it gets sucked in to any leak. Also, make sure your throttle cable is nice and smooth and the throttle idle circuit switch is being pressed as the throttle shuts at idle. If it does click shut, then check it is actually making a circuit (it's at the front/underside of the throttle body with 2 pin connector) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
norman16v 0 Posted April 13, 2009 Couldn't see any obvious splits there but I'll try the wd40 trick to see what happens. I've got a video of the throttle blipping problem I sometimes get as opposed to the stalling, if that helps narrow it down at all: http://rapidshare.com/files/220766125/MOV00123.MP4.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
norman16v 0 Posted April 14, 2009 WD40 thing didn't show up any results. Found this on the forum search: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/vwt ... ning3.html and looked at all the connectors as suggested but all are perfect and not at all corroded. Idle switch is clicking fine, haven't got a multimeter handy to check if its getting power though. Mechanic is also stumped and was certain a new ISV would have solved the problem. Is it possible that either the ECU needs more time to adjust to the new ISV (had 40 miles so far, first 30 miles it was perfect...) or that the 3rd party ISV I bought is a load of s**t despite being brand new? Really am getting sick of this car now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites