In the market shortly for a VR- what do I need to know

[wcrado 0]

Having not owned a Corrado for a couple of years now I'm starting to get serious withdrawl symptoms....My mk2 golf keeps me from going mental, (as my daily shitter is an Escort van!) but I really need to get back to Corrado ownership. It's probably the only car in the world, that if one passes the other way on the road, I let out a little squeal of excitement! Anyway.... I previously had two KR valvers, and got to know all about them, through one problem or another, had the use for quite a while of a G60, and got to know a little about those, but I know nothing about VR6's at all. I've really got my heart on a VR, (hopefully a Blackberry one, I love that colour!) and will probably spend enough to get a totally solid example, as I will want to keep it for as long as I can. Obviously the bodywork speaks for itself, as does all the usual checks that apply to any car really, but I'm clueless when it comes to the VR engines.

Can someone give me some pointers on what to check, engine-wise, on a VR. All I really understand is that the chains need to be done on the high-milers, but not much else. I have no problem buying a high miler, as long as the right things have been done at the right time. What else should have been done on a higher mileage car, or any VR for that matter?

 

And whats the difference between OBD1 and 2?

 

Cheers.

[Joe M 0]

dont worry about obd1/obd2, all corrado vr's came with obd1.

Pity your so far away, I just got offered a terrible trade in price on my vr so will be willing to let it go cheap, keep an eye on the classifieds :wink:

[wcrado 0]

OK cool.

 

Glasgow hey.......

 

I will keep an eye. For the right car, it's worth travelling.

[bananawhip 0]

I will keep an eye. For the right car, it's worth travelling.

 

When I lived on the south coast (Weymouth) I bought my VR from a fellow forum member in Newcastle as I knew it was the right car, the 6 hour drive home was just an excuse to have some fun and get to know it a little better.

 

As far as engine stuff goes just make sure the history is bullet proof, most OBD1 lumps have been around for a while now so be sure to go through it with a fine tooth comb.

VR's are notoriously hot running so keeping it cool is a must, check for head gasket's, water pumps, temp switches etc, buying a tidy example with an oil cooler already installed isn't a bad idea, or fit your own if you plan on keeping it a while.

 

Not massively technical but just my 2 pennies :)

[wcrado 0]

Good stuff.

 

Everything helps here!

[Neil VR6 0]

I'd use the search mate :) There are loads of handy things to know about the VR - I'm learning what goes wrong the expensive way at the moment! What's become apparent to me is how quickly things can go wrong and how it's absolutely VITAL that you get someone who knows VRs inside out to look at them as they can diagnose problems and fix them using quality parts.

 

My understanding of what to look for if I was choosing a car all over again:

 

Early distributor engines are tricky to get OE parts for especially on the ignition side. Dizzies are discontinued and OE Beru leads are in short supply. I managed to get new ones but 4 are black and 2 are red!! I probably would have gone for a coilpack car – 20:20 hindsight an’ all that! Many people have told me that VRs are quite consumptive of ignition components.

 

My auxiliary water pump failed the other day – this was not replaced when the head was refreshed by the previous owner. It’s a relatively common thing as the impellor is plastic and disintegrates.

 

As the chap above says – they run hot so make sure the car’s got a good history of oil and coolant flushes. When you test drive, make sure the fans kick in and regulate the temperature properly. 100deg on the water is fine in traffic (the owner’s manual even says so!) but it shouldn’t go any higher.

 

A rattly top end could well be worn tappets so look out for that and head rebuilds are common on high milers. Bottom ends are strong but bores can ovalise as the 2.9s fitted to the ‘Rados have thinner bores than the Golf 2.8s– see note on keeping cooling system in good shape. Symptoms are low compression, oil consumption and fouled plugs (inspection and misfires).

 

Rattly chains means you need chains and guides doing. Whilst you’re there also change the clutch if it’s not new as you’ll save on the labour in the long run.

 

I’ve found my gearbox (130K mile) to be incredibly sweet and light. It doesn’t like to be hurried too much and first and reverse are occasionally sticky but compared to my mates’ 60K mile GTV it’s a revelation.

 

Look out for worn OE clutch salves too although this is not VR specific. OE ones are cast metal and infect the fluid with rust – OE replacement ones are resin and cure the problem.

 

Heater matrices are also a weak point – mine’s on it’s third one! You’ll know when that fails as the car turn into a 140mph-capable steam room. Warnings of failure are often non-existent although coolant in the passenger footwell is a giveaway to imminent failure.

 

My MAF was recently replaced and made a huge difference to idling and driveability, an expensive OE part - £200.

 

Idling can often be a problem on the VRs too – Check for a from-cold 1K RPM fast idle and 600RPM hot idle.

[wcrado 0]

Awesome

 

Cheers!