Stone0311 0 Posted May 23, 2009 Recently finished a 16v conversion into my Mk1 (I know its not a rado, but im desperate) it was running sweet, started straight off the key and idled lovely as it had always done in my rado. Came to replace my fuel lines as one had split, finished that today and started it up............... After 5-10mins of running lovely it just cut out, i went to restart it and it took a while but then started and now idles at around 3K! Every time i start it now its a pig to start and then returns to idle mega high Has anybody any ideas? have to sort this out as i have my MOT on Tues morning Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 24, 2009 what 16v is it kr or the 9a? and which fuel line did you replace? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted May 24, 2009 double check all your vacuum lines.Sounds like one is open to atmosphere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevo-M 0 Posted May 24, 2009 My 9a idles at 2k, i was told it's the idle air control valve that's faulty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 25, 2009 don't know the 9a as well, but on a KR that valve allows air to bypass the throttle body for 5 mins whilst the car warms up before an electrc bitemallic plate shuts the hole, if this is bust then it will idle at about 2k simple way to check is to to take it off and bung it in the freezer for 15mins - you should be able to see through the hole, stick back on the car and start and within five mins the hole should be shut Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 25, 2009 what 16v is it kr or the 9a? and which fuel line did you replace? Its a KR, i replaced both the delivery and return lines My 9a idles at 2k, i was told it's the idle air control valve that's faulty Where is the idle air control valve? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 25, 2009 Right, all vacuum lines and connections replaced - no luck. Tried blocking off the vacuum connection from the inlet manifold (the one that goes to the servo etc) - no luck. Checked gaskets and connections within the inlet manifold assey - no luck any more suggestions? nb also now have a vacuum gauge connected and that shows idle when its at 2.5K? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 25, 2009 Right its the ISV :censored: If anybody has one - let me know :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 25, 2009 auxhillary air valve is between the filter and the TB ISV's can get stuck, try cleaning it with carb cleaner or similar, also make sure the micro switch on the TB is activating the ISV, it should buzz when working Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 25, 2009 ISV cleaned and progress made. It now starts quite happily and idles at 1500 rpm before rising to 2000 rpm after about 10s. If there is still a leak i am quickly running out of places to look :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 25, 2009 there's so many variables in the kr 16v fueling that it's hard to suggest things without being under the bonnet :D you've definitely got extra air getting in somewhere, did you do an idle reset and adjust your idle when you transferred the engine over? beyond the above I'd be making guesses about your control pressure being too low, or you introduced an air pocket which is allowing the air plate to rise more than it should Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 25, 2009 there's so many variables in the kr 16v fueling that it's hard to suggest things without being under the bonnet :D you've definitely got extra air getting in somewhere, did you do an idle reset and adjust your idle when you transferred the engine over? No, as it all came from my rado i transferred it directly - it ran sweet before the move, and for 3 weeks after beyond the above I'd be making guesses about your control pressure being too low, or you introduced an air pocket which is allowing the air plate to rise more than it should Air pocket - could i have done that when replacing the fuel lines? it was fine before they were replaced. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 25, 2009 yeh, maybe worth a try to reset, the procedure is in haynes, you have to disconnect the connector near the coil, black and red ones i think, do a search - as am only just getting back into valvers myself i was interested to know which pipes you'd replaced for that reason, but the flow/ return recircs quickly so doubt would be an issue. you've covered the bases by checking leaks and the connectors are all correct, to diagnose further you need to start checking pressures and individual components... gets pretty involved :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 25, 2009 Going to steal the ISV from my m8s valver tom eve so il see if that makes a difference. Annoyingly took that connector out coz it was damaged :brickwall: cant remember where it went now, made the loom at xmas. There is 2 red/blk to the coil, any ideas where the one with the connector on goes to? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 25, 2009 dunno mate, only got an engine in the garage at the minute :D found Idle Adjustment guide • Run to normal operating temperature (all electrical inc fan off) • Disconnect crankcase breather • Disconnect red/ black wire spade connector at coil • Adjust idle to 1000?50rpm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 27, 2009 Any other suggestions folks? Progress made to-date: Have now tested all of the piping to the ISV and the ISV with no luck. Pretty much run out of places to look for a leak, could this be an engine management issue? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted May 27, 2009 idle air bleed screw on throttle body clean and OK? leaks from gaskets? try spraying carb cleaner or something around all the inlet boots and manifold, are the rubber sections of the inlet split? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 27, 2009 idle air bleed screw on throttle body clean and OK? Thats the one on the side of the throttle body? if so its all clean and seems fine leaks from gaskets? try spraying carb cleaner or something around all the inlet boots and manifold, are the rubber sections of the inlet split? No splits in the inlet section, and no leaks from around the inlet manifold/assey - tb is closed @ idle so would have thought the leak would have to be after the tb or on the ISV inlet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted May 27, 2009 did you have the manifold off with the engine swap? could the gaskets be suspect what about the injector seals are they new? they get very hard with age and once disturbed may leak air Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stone0311 0 Posted May 27, 2009 Have the inlet gaskets arnt that old and were ok when i had it apart, will have to check the injector seals. Can somebody confirm my thoughts here: TB obviously governs the inlet of air into the inlet system Depending on air demand the pressure plate in the metering head regulates the fuel sent to the injectors During warmup/idle the ISV delivers air into the system when tb is closed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted May 27, 2009 ur correct except last bit - on warm up additonal air is allowed via the auxhillary air valve, as previous page, gray thing between filter and TB - TB lets air in via idle screw - the ISV flattens out engine hunting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
