STORM 2 0 Posted June 7, 2009 So is this the inner CV gaiter? I can't see any sign of any grease so does that mean the joint will be damaged? Is the metal ring a gasket or a circlip for the boot? :mad2: the test station dude was more worried about the flexibility of my wiper blades than real problems is it a DIY job or will it need a car lift and camber/castor re-aligning? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiller1 0 Posted June 7, 2009 Hi, your mot man should have told you, but he cant fail it. He should have given you an advise slip. He can only fail the outer c.v boot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PROVR6 0 Posted June 7, 2009 MIne, missed the ABS light being permanently on, as did the garage who I asked to repair it :cuckoo: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted June 7, 2009 DIY job the inners as easy to do. You will need the correct spline drive tool, a jack some axles stands and off you go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 7, 2009 Hi, your mot man should have told you, but he cant fail it. He should have given you an advise slip. He can only fail the outer c.v boot. Are you sure that's right!?! I would have thought any split boot would be a failure... something that needs attention anyway! I think there should also be a plastic shield to protect it that also looks like it's missing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 7, 2009 Is there a kit for the inners ? I take it loss of grease and ingress of dirt is not as catastrophic as with the outers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted June 7, 2009 The inners don't rotate through the vertical plane like the outers do - think about the wheels steering and outer CV following suit, so they tend to last longer :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 7, 2009 They aren't an MOT item as they can't get grease on the brakes., or cause a safety issue... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 8, 2009 They aren't an MOT item as they can't get grease on the brakes., or cause a safety issue... Interesting, because I thought once the grease was gone, ingress of dirt could cause premature wear and possible seizing of the driveshaft. For general info, VAG want £25 for a 'boot kit' and GSF want £11 - so the VAG rubber must be a specially good quality rubber compared to the GSF one :wink: MORE importantly, is replacing the boot (rather than the whole joint) easier ? I presume once Ive taken the spline bolts off, the driveshaft should disconnence and the boot slide easily onto it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 8, 2009 They aren't an MOT item as they can't get grease on the brakes., or cause a safety issue... Interesting, because I thought once the grease was gone, ingress of dirt could cause premature wear and possible seizing of the driveshaft. No, but a tester can fail a car on anything if they consider it to be dangerous, with a totally destroyed boot I'd think it would be fair to say the joint could be close to failure and potentially dangerous. For general info, VAG want £25 for a 'boot kit' and GSF want £11 - so the VAG rubber must be a specially good quality rubber compared to the GSF one :wink: The VAG ones are plastic, not rubber, and not prone to perishing and more resitant to sharp stones etc... they could well pay for themselves and save you money too in the long run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 8, 2009 Yep, deffo get a VAG one, will last another 10 years.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 8, 2009 Er how to stop the wheels from turning when your trying to get the spline bolts off? Apart from getting someone to sit in a car on axle stands with their foot on the brake? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 8, 2009 Er how to stop the wheels from turning when your trying to get the spline bolts off? Apart from getting someone to sit in a car on axle stands with their foot on the brake? I've done it on my own by simply holding the wheel whilst turning the ratchet at the same time, you get plenty of leverage just holding the tyre with one hand. Or a broom handle through the wheel? Could always crack them off with the wheels on the ground, the bolts aren't torqued up mega tight. Just make sure you clean out the splines thoroughly to prevent the bit slipping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 8, 2009 Yep, got em off but I cant seem to get the half-axle down to slide the (tripod joint) and boot off. I pushed it out (toward the off-end of the axle) but it still wont slip down, getting caught on the gearbox bit of the CV joint. Do I have to remove the whole half-axle.....taking it off at the hub as well? Just for the boot? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 8, 2009 a while since I had the engine and box out on mine but I'm sure you can lift the axle up away from the gbox flange, might have to turn the roadwheels a bit. worst comes to the worst, undo the balljoint/hub pinch bolt to swing the hub/leg away from the wishbone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 12, 2009 Can someone offer a word of explanation here? Refitted the inner CV joint - tightened up the six spline bolts etc. 1. With car in 1st gear, wheels rotate contralaterally - ie one goes clockwise the other anti-clockwise 2. with car out of gear there is no lock - ie wheels do not move together at all - you can rotate one and the other does nothing Does this mean the CV joint within the casing has come loose? cheers PS I haven't decided to start her up and see what kind of drive, if any, Ive got :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 12, 2009 thanks for that Toad. Out of interest what has happened in terms of the gearbox and diff? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 12, 2009 When the engine is off and the gearbox is in gear and you spin one wheel the outer ring of the diff is held in place, so the only thing that can happen is that the opposite wheel will turn in the opposite direction. if that wheel was held stationary then the engine would be turned over. With it out of gear, part of the gearbox can rotate, so it does, rather than the opposite wheel doing so. It's basically about what friction is easier to overcome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STORM 2 0 Posted June 12, 2009 Thankyou for explaining that :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted June 18, 2009 not trying to hijac the thred or anything here (don't want to be cheeky) - but if it's any use to you i have a set of refurbished driveshafts for sale (basically de-rusted and resprayed - see my r32 build thread) with all four brand new genuine oem cv joints - i'm after £200 collected - bargain when you thing one new cv joint on it's own is circa £150 iirc. i do have the receipt for the cv joints somewhere - just need to dig it out when i get home. the driveshafts have done approx 500 miles since i re-did them and fitted them to my car... whatever happens - hope you get it all sorted :) (oh and next time you're round at the garage, i would mention that to the MOT man - how on earth did he miss that?!??? - to$$er!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
