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swiftkid

Rear bank problems VR6

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I've tried searching to no avail, basically i've just rebuilt my VR6 engine from top to bottom and put it all back together and for some reason the rear bank is not running right. There appears to be a spark, good fuel but i don't actually know how to check if its MAF but even if it was that wouldn't cause cylinders 1, 3 and 5 to not run right. cylinders 2, 4 and 6 are fine. The usual test of removing the ht leads doesn't make much difference to any the 3 cylinders.

 

My dad reckons it could be the tappets that have jacked up and it just needs a good run but seeing as its just used £5 of petrol on tickover for 10 minutes im a little concerned to be driving it. It also stinks of petrol but theres no leakage anywhere.

 

I will be taking it to private land tonight for a run to try it (has no MOT, Tax or insurance so giving it a good motorway blast is a no no). Anyone got any idea's? and i don't have vagcom so i can't try that for now, possibly got someone with some diagnostic thing coming on saturday but if i can id like to get it sorted myself

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Do you have compression on those rear cylinders?

 

Have you got the cam set up right?

 

Have you got correct fuel pressure as lack of it can affect the rear banks due to the long inlet tracks.

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lol, if only toad! but yes they are correct, unless the numbers on the coil do not correspond with the cylinder...

 

will check the compression tomorrow, what do you mean about cam being setup right? if you mean timing then it is definately setup right.

 

not sure how to check correct fuel pressure, might be a problem but it stinks of fuel and it chucks clouds of smoke out the exhaust

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as long as the flats in the rears of the cam line up,ive seen one front bank and rear bank out before and have wierd running problems.....

 

See what the CR says,have you got the injector plugs on right? are they still in the plastic retainer?

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If you have a whole bank out 1/3/5 or 2/ 4 /6 I think it has to be a timing issue. I had my engine rebuilt by a 'specialist' and the result was running very unevenly, he assured me that the timing was spot on but having checked plugs, leads, injectors etc, finally got round to doing a compression check which revealed all three front cylinders were reading 60 psi down at 120. Top off again to find the w++ker had managed to rebuild it with the front cam at least a tooth out :bad-words:

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Also, I know this is unlikely, but... I did timing chains etc on one car and the key on the cam sprocket had actually sheared off at some point, meaning the rear bank were running a tooth out. Luckily enough material was left so that it couldn't rotate completely and just jammed at that position.

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well the cam sprocket i replaced so i know its fine, the timing is 100% right as i have had the cover off and both cams line up as well as the mark at the bottom. Injector plugs are still in plastic retainer so you can't really get them on wrong.

 

I've come to the conclusion its the tappets though so going to try them tomorrow. But its just absolutely drinking fuel (approx £10 in 5-10 miles) and clouds of white smoke out the back.

 

Oh and i had it on the diagnostic today and it showed no errors up so its confusing one!

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did compression check today and got 175 - 185 on all but no. 5 which was 300+. Took the injectors out to test them and cylinder no 5 injector was constantly firing, even with ignition on. So i think its ECU, any knowledgable ones say otherwise before i spend money on an ecu?

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I had this happen on my old raddo when i gave it some and it started to run like a pig! one of the coil drivers in the ECU had jamed! The sticking open injector will also reduce the rail pressure.

 

Not sure on the 300+ on No5 ? :scratch: mabey more running will settle this down?

 

But before you get an ecu swap over an injector to see if its an injector stuck open and not the ECU.

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When we disconnect the power to the injector it doesn't inject so i presume its not stuck open.

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