G60 Boost test; does my charger exist?....

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

is this a problem with the nylon vac pipe that runs to the clocks? if so... where is it?! :lol:

 

I realize that the reading Zero just means its reading Standard atmospheric pressure so is there a sensor that will need replacing or just a vacume pipe? if so where should i be looking?

 

all i can find on the Wiki is "1000/ 0 (Atmospheric pressure, charger is bypassed?)"

Help!

Thanks!

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

also, could it be the hall sensor? i noticed that the car sometimes misfires under throttle but only when the engine is HOT :cuckoo:

[Yandards 0]

Hello,

 

Right a few things covered here in a couple of posts.

 

Vacuum reading, the reading on the MFA (clocks) is actually taken using a different hose to the one that feeds the ECU. They are both connected on the throttle body using 3.5mm bore pipeline. The one to the ECU goes across the back of the engine bay and in under the scuttle panel to the ECU, the MFA one heads along a similar route but goes into the drivers side area.

 

As for the hall sender, if its not working the engine wont start.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Hello,

 

Right a few things covered here in a couple of posts.

 

Vacuum reading, the reading on the MFA (clocks) is actually taken using a different hose to the one that feeds the ECU. They are both connected on the throttle body using 3.5mm bore pipeline. The one to the ECU goes across the back of the engine bay and in under the scuttle panel to the ECU, the MFA one heads along a similar route but goes into the drivers side area.

 

As for the hall sender, if its not working the engine wont start.

 

nice one i'll have a look at those tonight.

 

As for the hall sender, i checked the manual and it said to check the hall sender thats why i mentioned it. The "misfires" are a little weird to be fair. Only misfires when HOT and its for extended periods. So theres no combustion for a couple of seconds or sometimes it stops all together as im driving along... but all i need to do is switch of the ignition and she re-starts first time. Could the hall sender be on its last legs maybe? (ive done all the usual ignition checks and replacements by the way, caps, leads, coil etc. etc.)

[Henny 0]

ive done all the usual ignition checks and replacements by the way, caps, leads, coil etc. etc.

ignition switch?

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

ive done all the usual ignition checks and replacements by the way, caps, leads, coil etc. etc.

ignition switch?

 

 

yep. Anyway... the Heat wouldnt affect that would it? Hey... maybe you and me have the same problem!!!! :confused4:

 

:pale:

 

I do hope not, have you had any more progress with your problem?

[Henny 0]

heat implies that the engine has been running for some time and therefore that there's been current running through the ignition switch for some time too... Which is how they break down in the first place as the switch is simply not good enough for the current draw it has through it... ;)

 

May be worth checking for the sake of £20ish though, don't you think?

 

I think I know what my problem was/is with my g60... waiting on another opinion this weekend from a mate who's a mechanic by trade... ;)

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

heat implies that the engine has been running for some time and therefore that there's been current running through the ignition switch for some time too... Which is how they break down in the first place as the switch is simply not good enough for the current draw it has through it... ;)

 

May be worth checking for the sake of £20ish though, don't you think?

 

I think I know what my problem was/is with my g60... waiting on another opinion this weekend from a mate who's a mechanic by trade... ;)

 

i had a multimeter taken over the car and didn't see any problems but as you say, continuous current may effect it some what. Also the resistance through the circuit would increase with engine temp as well.

 

And for 20 notes who cares! :lol:

its not happened for ages though... im more concerned with the MFA reading zero

[Henny 0]

MFA reading is probably either the pipe having come off the back of the clocks (or where it attaches to the throttle body as described above) or the sensor on the back of the clocks has gone faulty, but I've never heard of one of these going wrong...