joinerboy 0 Posted August 3, 2009 i need help! i spent hours today bleeding my stupid brakes. no matter how many times i do it theres still air in there. i have new calipers all round with new copper pipes so i have to bleed the whole system.as far as i can tell the new lines are all tight. i cant see any leakage anywhere. is there a special way to bleed the entire system on a vr6? or should i just keep on pumping endless amounts of fluid through the system? help pls :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
casual 0 Posted August 3, 2009 mine took ages to be fair. kept having to bleed the master cylinder on the 2 screws. as a rule of thumb always start the corner furthest away from the master cylinder. e.g. OSR then NSR, OSF,NSF if all else fails mayb pressure bleed it. but i dont know as to any special way with corrados, hopefully someone else can help you on that one. oh and open up the bias valve on the rear axle, think you have to let it hang.....someone correct if wrong. i left the connections loose until fluid dripped from them to avoid an air lock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 3, 2009 You are pressure bleeding right??? If not you need to be as it's an ABS car... I use about 20PSI to get good flow and the order is (on a UK RHD car with ABS) Rear right, Left, front right, front left then MC and don't forget the clutch too! If you have got air into the ABS system or still having major probs then I'd just take it to VW. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted August 3, 2009 My tip is to get it most of the way there and then get it professionally pressure bled, save yourself the time and hassle plus the waste of brake fluid doing it on the drive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted August 3, 2009 bleeding the master brake cylinder helped mine a great deal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timbo 0 Posted August 4, 2009 Don't forget to bleed the ABS pump after doing the calipers but before the master cylinder. It can also help to activate the ABS pump (by braking really hard) and bleeding again. A pressure bleeder is a must though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joinerboy 0 Posted August 4, 2009 thanks for replies guys. so the conventional method(releasing nipple,pressing brake peddle) doesnt work? i never thought of bleeding from the master cylinder. i will try that as far as the abs pump goes i havent a clue. where is it located and how do u bleed it :lol: im going to check my manual now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 4, 2009 Go and buy an Eezibleed kit from Halfords mate - you will damage the master cyl doing it manually and they are £250 to replace! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
casual 0 Posted August 4, 2009 crack off the pipes that go into the abs unit 1 at a time. 2 pipes go into it, and 4 come out and go to the calipers. bleeding the brakes manually shouldnt damage the MC, could potentially turn the seals but very unlikely. i dont like using pressure bleeds personally as your forcing air into the fluid. but some of the cars iv worked on in the past have needed you to use these. so swings n round abouts i guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timbo 0 Posted August 4, 2009 What :cuckoo:? Just use the two bleed valves on the top of the ABS pump, which is located under and to the left of the coolant expansion tank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nathan.g4 0 Posted August 4, 2009 yeah i will second an eazybleed cost me 8 pounds did whole lot in hour really good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
poll250 0 Posted February 1, 2010 Nothing like a bit of thread resurrection for a Monday afternoon. I'm gonna fit my Brembos tomorrow, and was just thinking about the easiest way to bleed them. If I ensure that the fluid level is kept topped up in the resevoir, and because I'm only doing the fronts: am I correct in thinking I can just disconnect the brake line from the hard line, connect the new one attached the calliper and then release the bleed nipple on top of it. There shouldn't be any air in the system apart from in the new parts right? so in theory I could actually attach the hoses to the hardline with the calliper bleed nipple already open, and this would force the air out, so when fluid starts coming out they're done! Sounds easy right! Let me know if there are any holes in my plan! ( I do have an eazibleed should I need, but just thought this sounded like a pretty straightforward plan) Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted February 3, 2010 Nothing like a bit of thread resurrection for a Monday afternoon. I'm gonna fit my Brembos tomorrow, and was just thinking about the easiest way to bleed them. If I ensure that the fluid level is kept topped up in the resevoir, and because I'm only doing the fronts: am I correct in thinking I can just disconnect the brake line from the hard line, connect the new one attached the calliper and then release the bleed nipple on top of it. There shouldn't be any air in the system apart from in the new parts right? so in theory I could actually attach the hoses to the hardline with the calliper bleed nipple already open, and this would force the air out, so when fluid starts coming out they're done! Sounds easy right! Let me know if there are any holes in my plan! ( I do have an eazibleed should I need, but just thought this sounded like a pretty straightforward plan) Andy in theory that works, but tbh, you'll probably find that you need to do the rears as well - air has a nasty habit of finding it's way in when you've got the system open... try by all means obviously - if it was me though i wouldn't waste the time and i'd just bleed the lot from the off. at least you know your fluid is totally 100% then too. if you have any eezibleed kit then you're laughing anyway! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
culshaw 1 Posted February 4, 2010 i did mine and my clutch a couple of weeks back and checked the other day and the clutch is on the floor (the car hasn't been started), now when i press the clutch i can feel resistance, does turning the engine prime the clutch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted February 7, 2010 i did mine and my clutch a couple of weeks back and checked the other day and the clutch is on the floor (the car hasn't been started), now when i press the clutch i can feel resistance, does turning the engine prime the clutch? no, turning the engine over doesn't affect the clutch. sounds like the master has had it... which did you replace - guessing it was the slave?... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
culshaw 1 Posted February 7, 2010 i replaced the brake reservoir to master cylinder pipe was all fine before that... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete_griff 0 Posted February 10, 2010 do you just mean the bit of rubber flexi covered in blue fabric that runs from the reservoir to the master? that shouldn't make any difference at all! your problem has come from bleeding the system by the sounds of it... first try and re-bleed the system. however from what you've said, i sunds like something has failed somewhere, or possibly you haen't tightened something back up 100%. try a re-bleed and get back to us... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
