G60 Idle Problem.

[Slimg60 0]

**Firstly, I have searched! Unfortunately their idle problems seem to be permanant but mine is intermittant.**!

 

When I start the car when the engine is cold (first thing in the mornin) it starts and idles fine.

I can drive to work and it will be fine. After leaving the car to cool off for a while (and hour or so) When I start her it really struggles to idle and needs a little bit of throttle to keep running or it will cut out. After 30sec-1min it will clear itself and run fine :scratch:

I can then turn it off and on again and it will run fine. It seems to be temperature related, so have tried swapping the plugs over on the blue/black temp sensors and it was still the same.

I suspect it could be the lambda but this was changed a couple of years ago.

 

Like I have said, I've read similar threads but the idle problem seems constant for them where as mine clears itself.

Please help as having spent the whole weekend cleaning her, I'd actually like to drive it now!!

Cheers

Slim

[Album56 0]

Check your earths are good & clean, especially the one from the bulkhead by the coil to the throttle body & the one from the ECU to the coolant flange stud on the R/H side of the head. I dont think the Lambda affects the idle so you can probably rule that out as long as the idle switch on the throttle body is ok. Intermittent problems like these can be a real bstd to find but it sounds electrical to me. The other thing is the throttle cable, is the idle switch operating when the problem occurs, could be a sticky or over tight cable when hot.

Mick

[Slimg60 0]

Idle switch? Is this on the throttle body near the WOT switch?

[Slimg60 0]

Right, just been out to the carpark for a quick nosey. The earth lead from the throttle body to the bulk head is completely diconnected from the bulkhead, and the earth on the side of the block (as long as it's the one beside the charger oil line) has a rather funky blue fur coat (suppose it must get cold outside all the time!).

 

The throttle cable has a little slack in it, so there is a bit of pedal movement before the cable becomes tight and starts to move.

Thinking I need to re-attatch/clean these earths and see if my problem persists :scratch:

[Supercharged 2]

Mine does this on warmish starts in hot weather...

 

The cause is the version of SNS chip I have dumps a bit too much fuel in on a warm start and floods then engine slightly - after 20-30 seconds in clears itself and the idle stabilises - does yours feel like this?

[Slimg60 0]

Sounds very similar. I have an SNS chip too but have had it fitted for a couple of years and never had this problem.

Does your need a little throttle to keep running? Mine slowly drops the revs until it feels like it's running on spanners and then cuts out.

[Supercharged 2]

Hmmm - no, mine you have to leave strugleing and it just sorts itself out... if you try and drive off it kangaroo's though.

 

You need to check the Blue temp sensor and wiring, thottle switches and making contact, vac leaks, earths, idle screw no coming out etc...

 

Maybe clean the ISV also as this is the component that should keep it running in this situation.

 

Is it deffo running on 4 when this happens?

[Slimg60 0]

I swapped the leads over on the blue/black temp sensor and it still did it.

It sounds like it is still running on all 4 when the revs drop, but just struggling to idle.

If I try to drive it like this there is very little power, and if I try to rev it hard it struggles. I have to press the throttle gently to keep it running until it clears through.

The throttle switches all seem to be making contact, perhaps I'll get some electrolube in there and just make sure everything is clean.

I'll get some carb cleaner and have a go at the ISV.

If not then it'll be an insurance claim and a very nice 24v that for sale :D

[Album56 0]

If I was you I'd try re-attatching that bulkhead to throttlebody earth 1st it is important for the idle switch to see a good earth, might save you a lot of messing about.

Mick

[Slimg60 0]

i'll reattatch the earth and clean the other, however it has been running fine since this morning :scratch:

[Richie_t 0]

Mine has this excat same problem but only does it some days completely random but when it does it it literally only the first 20 second the car is running

 

Another earth to check is the one for the ecu on the lamba plug down on the right had engine mount (left hand when veiwed from the front)

 

The only things i havent changed yet on mine is fuel system, going to service the injectore at some point this month and leave a fuel pressure gauge on the car for a few weeks.

 

Might sound daft but whats u ignition timing set too?

 

Good luck

 

Rich

[Slimg60 0]

Not sure what my ignition timing is set to. It's real pain in the ar$e that it is so intermittant, making trying to find the problem almost impossible :censored:

[Slimg60 0]

Right, For the last couple of days it seems to have been running fine. I decided to clean the ISV with carb cleaner and was surprised at the amount of crud that was flushed out. I also changed the plugs.

Car started fine and I let her idle for a bit, then the problem returned :censored:

Revs slowly dropped, until it was struggling to run. Then it sounded like popping inside the exhaust. I unplugged the blue temp sensor and the revs picked up before slowly dropping off again.

I swapped the blue and black temp plugs over and then noticed that the temp guage wasn't working.

Does all of this point towardsthe blue temp sensor? I think so but the more I think about it the more I talk myself into the fact it is probably something else :shrug:

 

:help: :help: :help: :help: :help:

 

Cheers

[CTWG60 0]

Whenever I've had idle problems it's always been the map hose that runs to the ECU. Few quid from GSF. I've had to replace mine twice in the last 5 years! Make sure it's proper vac hose! Blue temp sensors are cheap too you can test them with an ohm meter aswell.

[Yandards 0]

Whenever I've had idle problems it's always been the map hose that runs to the ECU. Few quid from GSF. I've had to replace mine twice in the last 5 years! Make sure it's proper vac hose! Blue temp sensors are cheap too you can test them with an ohm meter aswell.

 

Or its cheap from VAG too and proper vac hose! :)

 

Blue temp sensors and black temp sensors don't work the same way so its no use swapping the plugs over. Blue temp sensors from non-VAG sources are notorious for being rubbish, I know of one person who went into a well known 3rd party supplier with an ohm meter, it took 5 blue temp sensors to find one in the correct range.

 

My G60 is also suffering a similar problem, fine from a complete cold start but rubbish on a warm restart, no power and struggling revs, I need to dip the clutch, boot it and dump the clutch a few times to sort it. Not invested it yet as my ankle is still pretty fecked from an accident a month ago, that and it keeps raining. It is clearly a warm/hot start issue so I am leaning more towards a BTS as I replaced the vacuum hose 12 months ago and it works fine the rest of the time. Need to get out there with the break out lead and a fluke.

[Slimg60 0]

Fluke, now there's a term I havent heard in a while :wink:

[CTWG60 0]

Whenever I've had idle problems it's always been the map hose that runs to the ECU. Few quid from GSF. I've had to replace mine twice in the last 5 years! Make sure it's proper vac hose! Blue temp sensors are cheap too you can test them with an ohm meter aswell.

 

Or its cheap from VAG too and proper vac hose! :)

 

Blue temp sensors and black temp sensors don't work the same way so its no use swapping the plugs over. Blue temp sensors from non-VAG sources are notorious for being rubbish, I know of one person who went into a well known 3rd party supplier with an ohm meter, it took 5 blue temp sensors to find one in the correct range.

 

My G60 is also suffering a similar problem, fine from a complete cold start but rubbish on a warm restart, no power and struggling revs, I need to dip the clutch, boot it and dump the clutch a few times to sort it. Not invested it yet as my ankle is still pretty fecked from an accident a month ago, that and it keeps raining. It is clearly a warm/hot start issue so I am leaning more towards a BTS as I replaced the vacuum hose 12 months ago and it works fine the rest of the time. Need to get out there with the break out lead and a fluke.

 

TPS gave me the run around with vac hose, so went to gsf. Never bought a BTS from GSF for the above reason!

[Yandards 0]

The TPS run around is more due to the fact they vac hose listing on ETKA is a bit of a pain to read thanks to some revisions to the really early G60s.

 

For the record the vac hose you need from the throttle body to the ECU is part number N 020 290 3 and should be exactly 1000mm in length, the hose will be black with a yellow block stripe on it.

 

The vac hose you need to use that runs from the FPR to the inlet manifold is N 020 353 27 and should be 100mm long.

[CTWG60 0]

Cheers Yan :)

[Supercharged 2]

Gonna say got mine from TPS but had to buy 5 metres as they don't keep 'workshop stock' like the actual dealers...

[Slimg60 0]

Now my idle has gone the other way!

When I got home from work it was idling at about 1400rpm! the engine was very hot (fan had kicked in).

What are the chances of these being related?

[Yandards 0]

Now my idle has gone the other way!

When I got home from work it was idling at about 1400rpm! the engine was very hot (fan had kicked in).

What are the chances of these being related?

 

Far to middling I would say.

 

It would be a reasonable guess to be point the finger at the vac hose to the ECU as the pressure sensor is the primary reference for the fuel map (along with the engine speed sensor (dizzy), its less likely to be the dizzy as the engine speed sensor is required for start up, if it doesn't work then it won't start.

 

The coolant, TB M/S's, CO pot and lambda etc all adjust the fueling based on the primary mao info.

 

You still have a carbon canister fitted? If so the change over valve (the black disc on the o/s/f inner wing above the airbox) could be bust and not changing over - although the vacuum lines for that could also be at fault.