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gripper924

ABS problem help

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More problems with my '95 2.016V

The ABS light won't go out which is preventing it passing its MOT.

It has been diagnosed (rightly or wrongly) as a problem in the ECU, but the power coming in is fine and the ECU has now been tested and is reported to be fine.

Anyone had a similar problem? The garage are getting a motor electrcian back in to test the whole system as they are stumped.

Could the problem be with the sensors?

Can't I just take out the ABS warning light bulb?

replies, as ever, much appreciated.

thanks.

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When my abs light stayed on it was the sensors best bet is get it hooked up to VAGCOM which should bring up the errors and tell you where the problem lies! And no you cant just take out the bulb MOT man should look for the light coming on and then going off when ignition is turned on hope you solve the problem!!

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Thanks for reply guys.

Just in case, does anyone know where I can obtain wiring diagrams for my car (95M, 2.0 16V).

The garage say they need one to investigate further.

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Some one with a bentley manual maybe able to help you. Sorry i dont have a copy. To be honest the next thing to do is vagcom it. It may save you alot of time and effort trying to fault find.

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Further to my last post, the garage say that VAGCOM was used and it is saying there is a fault with the ECU voltage unit.

When sent away for repair the company says the ECU was perfectly okay.

Very frustrating!

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My ABS light is missing, does anyone know where u can get replacement bulbs? VW say i have to buy the whole light unit for £116!!!? Halfords or maplin don't do them, can't find them on net either!?

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My ABS light is missing, does anyone know where u can get replacement bulbs? VW say i have to buy the whole light unit for £116!!!? Halfords or maplin don't do them, can't find them on net either!?

 

£116 :shock:

 

Is it the little circuit board missing? Could be worth getting a second hand one off someone from here, if anyone is currently breaking a rado. I've got a spare bulb but will require soldering on.

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Further to my last post, the garage say that VAGCOM was used and it is saying there is a fault with the ECU voltage unit.

When sent away for repair the company says the ECU was perfectly okay.

Very frustrating!

 

Hmm, that sounds suspiciously like the engine fault that you get when the battery is disconnected. VAGCOM can be a pain to get working with the Teves ABS system, is it possible they're not actually connecting to it and misdiagnosing an unrelated fault (which isn't actually a fault)? I suspected my ECU was fried at first as I couldn't get any communication but eventually got it going and found the sensors and eventually the pump needed replacing. If you have a laptop I'd get hold of a VAGCOM cable off ebay (they're not expensive) and check it yourself, for peace of mind if nothing else. Search for ABS and latency if you have communication problems.

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Actually I think I'm misremembering (if that's a word). The ABS system does have a voltage fault... I'd still get a hold of a cable though ;).

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Got some spare ABS bulbs off Jon VR6 up there, cheers nice 1. I have a copy of the Bentley Corrado manual in pdf form on my laptop. It says it covers models from '90 to '94 but has loads of wiring diagrams so let me know if u need any and i could possibly e-mail them to you.

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Hiya,

 

My 92 VR6 has just failed it's MOT for a similar issue, although on mine, a previous owner has kindly just ripped the bulb off the PCB on the lamp assembly. Didn't realise the lamp should have been on before engine start and then go out when running when I bought the car. DOH! :cuckoo:

 

Can anyone advise me if a standard panel lamp bulb will at least illuminate so I can see if the system is even live. I knew the ABS wasn't working in all fairness, so need to get to the bottom of what's up.

 

Cheers

 

Tez

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Hiya,

 

My 92 VR6 has just failed it's MOT for a similar issue, although on mine, a previous owner has kindly just ripped the bulb off the PCB on the lamp assembly. Didn't realise the lamp should have been on before engine start and then go out when running when I bought the car. DOH! :cuckoo:

 

Can anyone advise me if a standard panel lamp bulb will at least illuminate so I can see if the system is even live. I knew the ABS wasn't working in all fairness, so need to get to the bottom of what's up.

 

Cheers

 

Tez

 

Not sure, but i have a spare bulb if you are able to solder it back on?

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That's very kind Mr Mass, many thanks! :salute:

 

I've put a voltmeter across the pins of the plug and have 14V on ignition live and engine running, which would suggest the fault circuit is live and showing a problem. Next stage is to work out what and where.

 

If I wanted to find a kind soul with vagcom in Shropshire can anyone suggest a good place to start - other than a local VW dealer = disinterested and £££££

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My local garage has managed to get their diagnostics to 'talk' (I think) to my ABS ECU. Fault codes are:

 

06532 - Supply voltage B +

00285 - ABS wheel sensor front right G45

 

The wheel speed sensor would make sense and be an easy one to change. Anyone comes across the 06532 one before. I'm hoping it's the missing fault light assembly, which was off the car when they did the test.

 

Cheers

Tez

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I had the voltage error code on mine. It's not a fault with the ABS ECU but with the ABS pump.

 

The pump is supplied with 12V directly from the ignition switch, which then goes through the solenoids in the ABS pump, and is "sunk" to ground by the ABS ECU when it wants to open/close the solenoids to operate the ABS. The 12V feeds and the solenoid-ECU connections are in the multi-pin plug on the front of the ABS pump, mounted to the bulkhead on the passenger side of a RHD car. Inside the cover of the ABS pump there's a ribbon cable which, due to its constant heat cycling, eventually fractures.

 

The error code you're seeing the ABS ECU telling you that it can't see the 12V coming from the ABS pump, due to either:-

1) a fault in the wiring between the ECU and ABS pump - dead easy, just ring out the pins of the ABS pump to the ECU with a multimeter. Or

2) there's a fault with the cable inside the ABS pump. - has been sorted by people on here before by baring the pins and replacing the ribbon cable with normal copper core wires. Very fiddly, as I understand it. There's bound to be someone on here breaking a late 16V with the Teves 04 system.

 

If it does turn out to be the ABS pump, they're dead easy to change.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Gareth

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Thanks for the detailed reply Gareth, most useful.

 

Happily, I now have my MOT! Having reinstated the fault bulb on the PCB and got it lit, my local garage replaced the wheel speed sensor today and the fault light now clears when the engine is run.

 

However, having read your explanation on what the B+ voltage code means, I suspect that the ABS modulator may still be dead. I haven't had chance to throw the anchors in properly yet and see if she still locks up, so we'll see.

 

I suspect this as the little PCB that sits in the fault light pack was f*cked. The moron who'd whipped the bulb off had twisted the terminals together and blown one of the tracks and both the resistors on it. I ended up soldering the bulb directly across two of the connector pins where I could find a supply voltage to get it lit, so my local garage could see if replacing the sensor would clear the lamp. Having had a look at the wee circuit diagram that's on the back of the fault lamp pack, I think one pair of pins takes a signal from the wheel speed circuit and the other two pairs from the modulator and pump. Whilst not deliberate :nono:, I suspect I may have just soldered my bulb across the wheel speed sensor fault circuit. We'll see.....

 

Cheers

 

Tez

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so did you get it fixed gripper924 or are you still having problems ??

 

 

Thanks to all for the replies, and apologies for the delay in my reply.

My Corrie was off road for a month, the ABS system checked out by a motor electrician and the ECU sent away twice and returned as working both times. A voltage problem was reported by the electrician.

In the end a got a mechanic to use a bit of creative wiring (from the battery or oil bulb?) to solve the problem.

Ironically the ABS has always worked perfectly, the problem is only the bulb.

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Glad you finally got yours sorted with the oil pressure frig. My hunch was proved wrong - I have fully functional ABS when I tested it on Friday. As long as it stays working I'm leaving it all well alone now

 

I got the voltage fault code as well - see above postings and the responses on what they mean, but clearly the unit is still receiving a supply seeing as it works!

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