Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
G-Lader

Psi

Recommended Posts

How does psi relate to bhp..............if your putting out 10psi on a 68mm pulley which gives approx. 175-180 bhp then what would you expect to see bhp wise with a 65mm pulley?

 

 

 

Also does anyone have any idea of rough figures for a standard cam'd 220bhp G60......0-60's,50-70's, 1/4 miles etc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How are you getting 220BHP? That takes more than just a chip, pulley and cam... :?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Henny - they are two diff. questions

 

ive been told with my standard cam,heavy porting,65mm pulley, red-tops,3.5fpr and custom map in conjunction with my exhaust/filter and de-cat I should see in the region of 220bhp.....trying to gauge the sort of performance that may be expected.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ive been told with my standard cam,heavy porting,65mm pulley, red-tops,3.5fpr and custom map in conjunction with my exhaust/filter and de-cat I should see in the region of 220bhp.....trying to gauge the sort of performance that may be expected.

 

Here's something I don't get......all those things are just bolt on and allegdley enable the 1800 to generate 220bhp, right? So how come my friend Mark Harries's old Stealth built MK2 2.0 G60 (Stage4, cammed, pulley'd, chargecooled, chipped etc) 'only' developed 238bhp?

 

It seems for a grand you can get 220 out of a 1.8, or spend several grand and get 238?

 

Therefore I can only come to the conclusion that a lot of power claims from the 1800 are complete BS......

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kev, The big difference is the torque through the rev range... A chipped, pulleyed, cam'd 1.8 will have a very short band where the torque is huge, giving the big BHP figure, whereas a 2.0 will have a huge torque figure across the whole rev range making it much faster in the real world, but only giving a few extra horses on a meter... :?

 

I've said it before, and I'll probably say it again, but BHP is irrelevent, it's the amount of torque and the shape of the torque curve that define how good a car engine is and how fast the car it's in can be made to be... 8)

 

See HERE for details of BHP and why it's meaningless...

 

I'd agree that there are a lot of people who do talk utter rubbish about their BHP figures though...including some tuning places!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kev, understand what you mean, I spent £800 plus at Jabba when I first got the car thinking it would produce 190bhp (chip,68mm,Stg 4 with my exhaust/filter/de-cat)....had it rolling roaded and it produced 175bhp.........been down to see G-Werks since then and they seem to know what they are talking about - car ran loads better just after a set-up........

 

They basically said there is a big variation in bhp figures of G60's because a lot of these engines are well down on compression to start with 100k plus miles, so the modifying does not work miracles etc etc

They tested the compression on my engine and its excellent which is why they felt the bhp should end up near the 220bhp......bearing in mind the psi is peaking at 10 to produce 175-180 then 17psi may well have some big effects if the fueling is set up to match? Thats what Im hoping anyway!

 

Looking at spending the same money again with G-werks but getting it done properly this time.........

 

 

 

Reason I talk about bhp is that I have been out in a G60 which was rolling roaded at just over 220bhp and torque of over 200...............very quick, unless youre driving in the wet !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kev, The big difference is the torque through the rev range... A chipped, pulleyed, cam'd 1.8 will have a very short band where the torque is huge, giving the big BHP figure, whereas a 2.0 will have a huge torque figure across the whole rev range making it much faster in the real world, but only giving a few extra horses on a meter... :?

 

I've said it before, and I'll probably say it again, but BHP is irrelevent, it's the amount of torque and the shape of the torque curve that define how good a car engine is and how fast the car it's in can be made to be... 8)

 

See HERE for details of BHP and why it's meaningless...

 

I'd agree that there are a lot of people who do talk utter rubbish about their BHP figures though...including some tuning places!

 

OK cool.....was just curious as to why you get a seeminlgy smaller return for your outlay with a bigger block. I'd prefer the 2.0 with a bigger torque spread then! I must admit, Stealth's 2.0 G60 did drive exceptionally well, but their 1800 16V Turbo could keep up quite easily....until the G60 got into 5th!

 

All fun and games in the engine tuning world, eh?

 

K

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am running the below mods on my g60 at the moment and make :

 

217 BHP din power

164 BHP power @ wheels

torque 197 IBS/ft

 

 

AMD CHIP & PULLEY (70mm) PLUS STAGE 4 CONVERSION ON THE SUPERCHARGER

K&N PANEL FILTER

SUPER SPRINT CAT BYPASS PIPE

SCORPION STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST

BIG VALVE HEAD

SUPER SPRINT MANIFOLD 4 TO 1

SCHRICK CAM

ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

 

With ah better intercooler and maybe just maybe 68mm pulley I would hopefully make 225+

 

Sandy G60

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sandy, thanks for replying, what sort of psi is the charger running with the 70mm pulley?

 

Ive been told the head and cam although they will help they are not the best money spent on the G60?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You ppl need to look more into the cooling of the air ie intercoolers. IC is a soft spot on g60 so dosent make any sense to spend 2k on a 2l conversion when you can spend 300 pounds or so in a better intercooler. My g60 dosent have a cam but im still making peak hp at 5800 rpm and peak touque at 4000rpm, is so much fun. It dosent heatsink at all, plus easy mods like rsr outlet help airflow and stop any possible air leaks. G60 is a very fun engine indeed :-P .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sandy, thanks for replying, what sort of psi is the charger running with the 70mm pulley?

 

Ive been told the head and cam although they will help they are not the best money spent on the G60?

 

Dunno who told you that... :? Every tuning company I've spoken to agrees that porting and flowing the head on a G60 is VERY benificial... That's why so many people are going for 16V, 20V or cross flow heads. The standard G60 head is very restrictive and so it's pretty easy to get good gains out of porting/flowing the head... The cam I don't know much about... I've heard that they don't do a lot as you can't go too mad with a cam on a G60 else you start blowing your pressure straight out of the exhaust valves rather than pressurising the cylinder like you want to 'cos of the durations on 'em...

 

Get a good head porting on your G60 and THEN stick a different pulley on it... In the brief time my car had it's new head on before the crank bolt sheared off, the car was transformed into a totally different beast with just the standard pulley... 8)

 

And as LowG says, a decent intercooler is a must too! 8)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

but i think im correct in thinking that a 16v head flows 30% better standard than a 8v. so whats the point in porting valving a G60 head when for only a fraction more you can fit a 16v one. ok it needs pistons but the eventual power would probly need um anyway.

 

thats y i havent ported my head. 16vt seems a better if slightly more costly option

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16vt seems a better if slightly more costly option

 

Slightly more costly?!? :shock:

 

My head gasket went, so while the head was off anyway I had new guides and seals put in it and had it flowed and polished... Total cost (inc. new VAG gasket set) just over £500.... * Cost for 16V conversion? Several Thousand pounds... :? Quite a few G60s are getting ready for head rebuilds, so why not get it flowed and ported while you're doing the maintenance? :? *(no labour costs included in either!)

 

I agree that a 16V (or 20V or crossflow) conversion is WAY better than the standard head will ever be, but it's also a MAJOR modification with lots of costs (including the extra insurance!) and non-standard parts... It's like comparing a charger rebuild with changing the engine for a 1.8T... Both get around the charger needing a rebuild, but it's the equivalent to using a nuclear warhead to kill a wasp when a rolled newspaper would kill it just as dead! :roll: :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no sure wit ma boost is the now will check. Will post ma print oot fae the RR day at star p when ah get home

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A set of pistons is around 500 and a 16v full engine around the 200-250 mark.

 

puitting the pistons in the G60 block is what i was thinking with a 16v head on there.

 

you maybe talking doulbe the initial cost but you can recoup from selling the charger etc. i can get a TD04 od a scoobie no probs just the manifold thats a problem.

 

could even just doulble gasket a 16v engine and run low boost n still make better more tractable power than the G60.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
A set of pistons is around 500 and a 16v full engine around the 200-250 mark.

 

puitting the pistons in the G60 block is what i was thinking with a 16v head on there.

 

you maybe talking doulbe the initial cost but you can recoup from selling the charger etc. i can get a TD04 od a scoobie no probs just the manifold thats a problem.

 

could even just doulble gasket a 16v engine and run low boost n still make better more tractable power than the G60.

 

Iiiieeee.... talk about bodge jobs... :roll:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

your right there are right ways and wrong ways. the later being not the right way. just examples of whats been done before and proven to work bodge or no badge theres cars that you class as bodge that have a proven record and make better power than any PG G60.

 

a full 20v setup can be had for under 1500. fitting it may be time consuming but its gonna work.

 

a few quid more but the potential for good usable power.

 

i have no idea what power im putting out but its getting on the verge of not usable in the parts that matter.

 

depends what you want out of the motor but i bet in the end you spend more than you expect for not much gain over a chipped and pulleyed car

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...