Poll250s VR Turbo

[Kevin Bacon 5]

LOL, that's a litre more than it needs :D

 

I haven't listened to the clip but is it a very loud cams whacking on tappets sound? Did you fit new tappets or put the new cams onto old tappets?

 

Ideally, when priming a VR for start up that's been in bits, you should pull all 6 plugs, disconnect the crank sensor (kills fuel and spark) and then crank it over it for at least 20 seconds. Removing the plugs makes the engine a lot easier to turn, which prevents the starter from flattening the battery. I normally do that on mine with the rocker cover off. You can visibly see the front cam flapping about violently and then once the pressure builds up in the tensioner bolt, it smooths out and both cams are in perfect harmony :D

[poll250 0]

I thought I'd read it was 6.8 litres! oh well I have a small leak from the sump at the moment, so that should loose me a bit of oil :D

 

When you say crank it for 20 seconds, do you mean manually on the crank bolt, or physically turn the key for 20 seconds with the plugs, crank sensor and coilpack unplugged?

 

edit: just re-read your post and get it now! ignore me lol

[ANDREW 30 0]

I would remove the extra oil as it won't do the engine any good with that much extra in there!

[poll250 0]

I would remove the extra oil as it won't do the engine any good with that much extra in there!

 

Will do!

 

Just taken the engine apart, took the tensioner bolt out and then put it back in. Couldn't get the chains top cover off as one of the bolts was about to round off, and it's in a bugger of a position.

 

But cranked it over with the rocker cover off:

 

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This look ok? Chains look tight to me.

[VRTrickster 0]

Just seen this post. The work you've carried out is very good! I'll hopefully be doing the same when I win the lottery, lol.

 

Did you get to the bottom of the noise?

 

Are you fitting any form of air cooler, or leaving it to the meth?

 

Hope alls good?

[poll250 0]

It's been a while since I updated this!

 

Hmm what have I been up to? Well, after sorting the clattering noise out and driving the car a bit I realised two things:

1.The PAS pump didn't seem to be working

2. The engine was leaking oil from a drain plug in the side of the block!

 

Brilliant!

 

After a lot of faffing under the car I swapped PAS pumps over and all was well on that front. The drain plug took a while longer: I tried some chemical metal to fill the hole but that didn't work. Eventually replaced the drain plug and the car has been fluid-tight ever since! :)

 

Next up was the MOT, luckily sailed through just had to bend the passenger wiper blade a touch another year of motoring bliss was secured.

 

Picked up a set of RCs from ebay for a good price as 2 of my wheels were well and truly buckled (one started leaking air after I got new tyres)

 

 

The next couple of weeks were pretty unevenful, I wanted to make sure everything was running ok before putting the charger on. Oil and water temps seemed to be a bit high ( water pretty constantly at 110c and oil about 104-110) but was unsure about whether it was just down the hot hot weather we had for a while. Think I figured out yesterday it was down to a bad earth connection on the main negative lead that goes onto the gbox. Well, since I sorted that out it seems to be indicating a more realistic temp when driving normally.

 

The only things to sort now before I put the charger on are:

 

1. Oil change

2. I've got a clunking coming from I think the drivers side driveshaft. It only happens under power intermittently (if I dip the clutch the clunking stops) If I get under the car I can wiggle the driveshaft left-to-right about 5mm. Would this be inner or outer CV?

3. I think the passengers hub bearing is on the way out (typically I just sold my other set of hubs with new bearings in!)

 

These are all pretty easy to sort, I've just kinda lost enthusiasm. Spending pretty much 6 weeks under my car every day has sucked it out of me, so I've been driving it daily with these problems, bit stupid really as I've spent ££££s on it in the last few months so should really just press on and get it finished.

[G60_edge 0]

(typically I just sold my other set of hubs with new bearings in!)

Yeah, cheers for them!!

 

These are all pretty easy to sort, I've just kinda lost enthusiasm. Spending pretty much 6 weeks under my car every day has sucked it out of me, so I've been driving it daily with these problems, bit stupid really as I've spent ££££s on it in the last few months so should really just press on and get it finished.

Sound familiar, mines back on the road with a few small issues. Just want to drive it now though not spend any more time underneath it.

 

Sounds like your pretty much there though. Chin up. Imagine what it would be like with the charger!!

[poll250 0]

Time for a bit of an update, keep the thread ticking over.

 

This weekend I went about fitting the much talked about Fixed Column mod to my VR, I sourced a Polo column from eBay for £20 and bought the rest new from VW. Big shout to Tekara for sorting me out a late cowling too, maybe the last one available??

 

The Polo column as I received it:

 

Like to see someone try and steal this:

 

Bit of a mid-session action shot.

 

Irwins made light work of the shear bolts:

 

Anyway, all I I think it cost me about £120 to do this, and I have to say it was worth every penny. Steering feedback is so so good. Seems to have quietened down vibrations in the cabin too as an added bonus. Bang for buck this is a great mod, and my column wasn't even THAT bad in the first place.

 

Last night I attacked the doors with these:

 

 

New door pins (mmm orange :gag: )

New window rollers

Daves Door Handle repair kits.

 

The new rollers went on in about 10 seconds flat, and the door handle repair kit was fiddly but not too taxing.

 

Driver side door pin took 30 seconds, whereas the nut on the passenger side just rounded straight off. This was particularly annoying as it was the passenger side that actually needed doing in the first place. I ended up taking an angle grinder to the head of the pin and then using my trusty irwins to get the nut out!

 

Finally at the stage where I'm getting pretty happy with the car overall, but now I'm having dirty thoughts about selling my Rotrex and meth kits, and going down the OBD2 + Turbo route over winter.... Just need to speak to Vince before I make a final decision.

[KADVR6 0]

ANDREW30 on here is looking for a rotrex kit.

[ANDREW 30 0]

Tis true i'm looking!

[poll250 0]

 

Mmmm new Track Rod End and Wheel bearing on the passenger side completes the refurb of every component on the passenger side of the car! Had a good wiggle of the inner track rod but there was no movement at all, which is a relief.

 

Tackling the drivers Wheel bearing and Track rod tomorrow. Hopefully get to the bottom on the 'clunking' I get in 1st and 2nd gear. Fingers crossed it's not the inner track rod on that side.

 

Also, I was having a look through Bentley earlier and noticed this:

 

 

I've never read anything about adjusting the Steering rack for play on here, is it worth doing?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Hi mate

 

Glad you're liking the fixed column, good isn't it? :D

 

Yes I have adjusted the rack as described before and it removes some slackness in the dead ahead. You have to be careful not to over do it though otherwise the steering can lose it's self centering. If you can get the tool VW 524, I'd urge you do so otherwise it's a right ball ache to adjust.

 

Is that rack in the pic a VR6 one? IIRC the big hex nut on the VR rack is just a cover. I'm sure we unscrewed it and tweaked something inside. I'll have a look at my old rack when I get home.

[poll250 0]

I see from the steering thread that you've had a go at adjusting it! I've got a spare rack at home too so will have a go at fiddling with that before I attack the one in the car.

 

In other news:

 

Silver:

 

or Black:

 

I just can't decide! I only did a light layer of matt black so I can get it off pretty easy if I decide I don't like it.

 

N.B Excuse the ride height, had just had the car on stands and hadn't settled.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah I discovered that adjustment has a profound effect on the tightness of the rack!

 

Defo black for me. I'm not a fan of chrome on cars at all :D

[Whitedog 0]

Debadged ftw... :grin:

[Abdul 0]

Black... Looking good mate.

[VRTrickster 0]

Hi mate

 

Glad you're liking the fixed column, good isn't it? :D

 

Yes I have adjusted the rack as described before and it removes some slackness in the dead ahead. You have to be careful not to over do it though otherwise the steering can lose it's self centering. If you can get the tool VW 524, I'd urge you do so otherwise it's a right ball ache to adjust.

 

Is that rack in the pic a VR6 one? IIRC the big hex nut on the VR rack is just a cover. I'm sure we unscrewed it and tweaked something inside. I'll have a look at my old rack when I get home.

 

Did either of you check your spare racks? Im thinking of trying to tighten up the rack this weekend.

[poll250 0]

I did mate yes, looks quite tight with the PAS pipes so I think you need the correct tool from vw; I was quoted £23 for it though so haven't splashed out yet! Kev managed to get one for a fiver somehow! I might try gsf to see if they do it cheaper.

[poll250 0]

Well I'm an idiot.

 

For the last 5 months I've been chasing an annoying knocking noise around my engine bay. The problem was that I could only replicate it while on the move. I've suspected the ARB bolts, Steering rack, Track rods and driveshafts but finally worked it out today!

 

Turns out it was the front engine mount all along!

 

After I'd worked out I could simulate the knock by parking on my parents sloped driveway and rocking back and forth slowly in 1st, it took me about 2 seconds to notice the front engine mount lifting!

 

Turns out I've fitted the Black Forest poly mount incorrectly (to be fair it didn't come with any instructions!)

 

Hopefully find some time (and daylight) in the next couple of days to refit it the correct way round and fingers crossed I'll have a nice knock free car again :)

[StueyB 0]

Well I'm an idiot.

 

For the last 5 months I've been chasing an annoying knocking noise around my engine bay. The problem was that I could only replicate it while on the move. I've suspected the ARB bolts, Steering rack, Track rods and driveshafts but finally worked it out today!

 

Turns out it was the front engine mount all along!

 

After I'd worked out I could simulate the knock by parking on my parents sloped driveway and rocking back and forth slowly in 1st, it took me about 2 seconds to notice the front engine mount lifting!

 

Turns out I've fitted the Black Forest poly mount incorrectly (to be fair it didn't come with any instructions!)

 

Hopefully find some time (and daylight) in the next couple of days to refit it the correct way round and fingers crossed I'll have a nice knock free car again :)

Had no idea Andy you were running the BFI mounts also, our cars really are very similar.

 

Which way round did you have the front one mounted? Should be smaller 'puck' on the bottom, large on top with the various washers in between.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Glad you found the cause knocking mate! As above, is the lower puck in place?

[poll250 0]

Yeah it's been annoying me for so long!

 

Well, I took a look on the BFI website and it actually looks like everything is in the correct way....

 

It's definitely the front mount lifting as I watched the engine move with my own eyes, but I only get 30 mins of daylight to work on it every day. I think I'm going to take the top bolt off and use a couple of washers as it may be the top and bottom bolt are just tightening into each other, making it seem like the top one is tight when it's not.

 

That's my theory anyhoo. Releived to know that it's not driveshaft related though!

[StueyB 0]

Yeah it's been annoying me for so long!

 

Well, I took a look on the BFI website and it actually looks like everything is in the correct way....

 

It's definitely the front mount lifting as I watched the engine move with my own eyes, but I only get 30 mins of daylight to work on it every day. I think I'm going to take the top bolt off and use a couple of washers as it may be the top and bottom bolt are just tightening into each other, making it seem like the top one is tight when it's not.

 

That's my theory anyhoo. Releived to know that it's not driveshaft related though!

Just out of interest did you use the hardware that came with the kit...?

 

I swear from memory I used some and reused some of the old bolts as one or two from the kit weren't correct length based on the new mounts. Which have you used as this might be contributing to the problem...?

 

A friend of mine runs them on his Seat Ibiza and he has moaned about having to re-tighten them. He used all the BFI attachment hardware where as i've used a mix and had no issues in a good 20k+ of driving.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

or the steering rack! Neither are cheap problems!

 

The OE mount works in 2 directions. The big swiss cheesed upper part deals with compressive forces (engine weight and reverse gear movement) and the donut underneath handles the pulling forces (accelerating forwards).

 

It sounds like the bottom bit isn't working as it should or is missing?

 

Vibratechnics deal with both forces in one complete replacement housing.

[poll250 0]

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I used the top and bottom bolt supplied with the mount. I've got the bottom "puck" in place, then a big metal washer, then 16mm bolt. I'm not using the cage thing with the 3 holes that the original mount used as the lower mount is too thin.

 

Stu: Would you mind taking a quick photo of the bottom part of your setup? I should have remembered to ask take a look when you were over the other day!