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9A Blue plug. What for?

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Got my new engine in last weekend after 9 weeks off the road (9A from a KR), and the weekend just gone I managed to get it started. :D

 

But the only way I could get it to start was to unplug the blue lead shown in the photo… What is it, and why would unplugging it allow it to start?

 

I think with it in there the engine is flooding, as when checking the petrol spray pattern I had injector 4 out, and the car started, whereas previous to this it was having none of it. Put the injector back, and the car wouldn’t fire. Unplug the blue lead and it starts. Plug the blue lead in when running and it stalls…

 

Also, in the second pic (I think it’s the warm up regulator) there’s a metal vacuum opening there, which is sucking in air. Should this be connected to anything? At present there is a slight vacuum leak coming from it… AFAIK nothing has ever been connected to it, but I take it there shouldn’t be air entering the system there. Why is the hole there?

 

Lastly, for some reason the ISV isn’t buzzing. When the old engine came out it was fine, but now there’s nothing. What should be the voltage going to it, or over the pins. Currently there is virtually no voltage across the pins, though when the ignition is turned on it flicks up to 0.3v then back down to 0.08v (same as putting one end of the meter on me and the other on the car!)

 

 

Car, despite the things above, is running really nicely. But I’d rather have all the leads in there attached to something and everything working as it should be!!

 

 

Cheers all,

 

Ant.

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I assume you are running K-jetronic incjection from the kr.

 

I had this problem on my mk1 gti, I never got to the bottom of it, but I jus left the cold start injector unplugged.

 

IIRC the injector should only run for a few seconds whilst cranking, it is used to increase the fuel mixture for cold starts. Does you car have a thermotime switch? If so I would check it is working correctly.

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Sounds like the 5th injector is stuck open then maybe or some electrical issue if it stalls immediatly...

 

The 5th is controlled by the ECU on the 9a, not via thermotime like the KR

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Sounds like the 5th injector is stuck open then maybe or some electrical issue if it stalls immediatly...

 

The 5th is controlled by the ECU on the 9a, not via thermotime like the KR

 

Could be the injector stuck open, good point.

 

In the photo, there is a warm up regulator, which is not fitted to the Ke-Motronic equipped 9a. I think this is a 9a engine running kr spec injection etc.

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warm up regulator should have a small 's' shaped hose connecting it to the vacuum system (idle valve pipework etc.)

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the blue plug is the fith injector for cold starts, the vacuum from the warm up regulator goes to your isv,

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warm up regulator should have a small 's' shaped hose connecting it to the vacuum system (idle valve pipework etc.)

 

 

I'll look for that... There's certainly an S shaped pipe there, but I'm not sure exactly where it connects to...

 

 

I think this is a 9a engine running kr spec injection etc.

 

Correct.

 

Was a KR, now has a 9a bottom on it, and I'm unsure whether the head is a 9a or KR tbh. Although, the stud for the cam belt tensioner is an M10 bolt, so sounds like KR...

 

 

Anyone have any thoughts on what voltage should be going to the ISV?

 

Cheers.

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Excellent link, thanks.

 

Didn't realise all the senders on the side of the head were the same... I'll test they're all working then tonight...

 

Thanks!

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On this pic I found on the web, what should be connected to the bit I've circled? It's not the S pipe as that connects on the other side of the WUR. On my engine it's currently open to the atmosphere...

 

I found a spare WUR in my shed over the weekend so have swapped it out as the internals of the one on the car were really mucky. The new one is a lot cleaner.

 

Would a non functioning WUR cause overfuelling? Reading up on WUR's it seems if the pressure was too low then it could cause overfuelling...

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this is my Corrado 1.816v (KR) WUR and piping, I think the part you circled is just capped off, sorry, didn't get a clear pic of that, the vac hose should be attached to the side though, nothing to the front.

WURpipe.jpg[/attachment:2bk345rx]

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pm'd ANT, but for the benefit of others:

 

The wiring to the WUR is 13.5V with engine started cold

and 0.024 ohms on the 2K scale on my multimeter across the WUR pins so that's 24 ohms?

 

edit: yep, must be, spec from manual is 20-26 ohms

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Thanks!

 

As mine is only running 1ish V when cold I'll investigate what is going on...

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I'm thinking thermo-timeswitch, on the side of the head.

should supply power to the cold start valve for the following amount of time:

thermotimeswitch-on-time.jpg[/attachment:3ovnxny6]

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