fuel pump prob.

[farrantino 0]

When to adjust the metering head last night and i couldnt see or feel (find) the 3mm allen key head :brickwall: , the reason for adjusting is that theres a fuel smell coming from the exhaust, also its running a little lumpy.

What shall i do ?? :help:

[davidwort 0]

firstly, don't touch the metering head, it's factory calibrated, the differential pressure regulator on the side (controlled by ECU) should control the mixture.

and secondly, use a sensible thread title please.

[farrantino 0]

davidwort

 

firstly, don't touch the metering head, it's factory calibrated, the differential pressure regulator on the side (controlled by ECU) should control the mixture.

and secondly, use a sensible thread title please.

 

Sorry for title :salute: .

 

The previous owner said the garage had played around with the mixture to get the car through an MOT.

[davidwort 0]

 

The previous owner said the garage had played around with the mixture to get the car through an MOT.

 

uh, oh... seems to be a common mistake when people work on 2L 16v cars, my betting is there's another problem that attempting to tweak the metering head was trying to cover up, possibly a dodgy or non VAG lambda or perhaps more seriously a fuel supply problem, maybe a worn/damaged metering head.

It does seem that garages tend to think 'Ah, K-jet - lets adjust the mixture on the metering head', but KE-jet on the 2L shouldn't be messed with like this, unfortunately the lack of fault diagnosis on the KE jet system makes it hard for someone without the full VAG service manuals to diagnose properly.

You really neeed a specialist who can check all the fuel components, pressures etc. but you can do a lot by checking al lof the basics, operation of coil, plugs, leads, distributor, vacuum lines, air intake boots not split etc to save them time.

[farrantino 0]

fuel components

 

My fuel gauge doenst work all the time, and i belive theres an intake pump attached to the sender, could this have something to do with it, if so how do i get inside the tank.

 

ive change plugs, lead, intake pipe, cleaned ISV Metering head,TB, Intake manifold, all vacuum hoses seem ok.

 

It does seem that garages tend to think 'Ah, K-jet - lets adjust the mixture on the metering head',

Funny you said that i asked a garage and they say the may need to adjust it lol :nuts:

 

Also would a leaking exhaust cause this, as the exhaust was fitted before (de-cat full s/s), i got the car and seem very loud.

 

Sorry to go on but im getting bored of this problem :brickwall:

 

Cheers davidwort

[davidwort 0]

car has a lift pump in the tank and a main pump underneath, usually you get a loud noise from your main under car pump if the lift pump fails as it's getting no help :)

can get at lift pump by lifting rear seat and going in through the hatch in the floor, then twist and remove fuel sender/float from top of tank.

 

Even Vince at Stealth hates the 2L 16v system as it's so hard to diagnose, but from previous owners who've had idle and emissions issues it seems that a lambda is the no.1 problem closely followed by metering heads that for one reason or another aren't operating right.

 

I'd imagine much of the testing procedure for plain K-jet is still valid though, so you could do fuel delivery rate tests by pulling the injectors and spraying into bottles, which will allow you to check the spray patterns too.

You need proper K-jet unions to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the system (which aren't cheap) but it may be a good idea to get a garage to check these are within spec, which is slightly different to plain k-jet IIRC.

 

If you can find a friendly 2L 16v owner, then it would be worth swapping over things like water/air temp sensors to rule them out too.

 

Does it run OK at idle with the plugs removed from the metering head? IIRC the ECU will ignore the temp and lambda readings and run on 'average/base' settings with these disconnected (2 or 3 plugs?)

[Jim 2]

The chaps at DG Autotech are pretty handy at diagnosing KR and 9A running problems - they're in Kidderminster. Highly reccommend getting your car there for an hour or two - sure they could diagnose the problem! Given how expensive individual components are, it'd be worth a few hours labour to find out what's wrong before working your way round buying bits :)

 

http://www.dgautotech.co.uk

 

:)

[farrantino 0]

Cheers Guys, will contact them in a hour (lunch break :))

[farrantino 0]

Just got given a few jobs/test to try before i can go any where. The job list consists of:-

 

Reclean ISV, then Spray light oil inside.

Check that all connections are clean and in good health.

Add a second battery earth to inlte manifold.

Check and re-check vacuum pipes.

 

So thats my job for tonight and the weekend :D.

[farrantino 0]

ok, i have done the list above but the problem is still there. but when i spray carb cleaner down the mixture hole (on the metering head), the revs pick upto 950rpm and runs super snooth, then itll go back to lumpy, what and why is the question also how to fix.

 

 

I know i keep asking question and this topic has been covered but mine seem just different from the other topics,

thanks for your time and help :D :notworthy:

 

Thanks

Sean

[farrantino 0]

morning bump.

[davidwort 0]

ok, i have done the list above but the problem is still there. but when i spray carb cleaner down the mixture hole (on the metering head), the revs pick upto 950rpm and runs super snooth, then itll go back to lumpy, what and why is the question also how to fix.

 

 

I know i keep asking question and this topic has been covered but mine seem just different from the other topics,

thanks for your time and help :D :notworthy:

 

Thanks

Sean

 

it shouldn't do that, must be a vacuum leak in the metering head sucking in the carb cleaner, the mixture screw on the 2L should actually have a tamper cap on the top of it and be sealed IIRC.

[farrantino 0]

Thanks davidwort

I have plugged the hole with a biro top and some blue hylomar. the only vac pipe i can see on the metering head/air box is the one for the heat intake pipe.

[farrantino 0]

the MOT tester had to choke that car right down to get it through the emissions, and he didn't reset it properly.. call my garage (VW audi specialist) on 0161 483 3883, tell em nick sent ya, and they'll have it running as sweet as a nut in about an hour.

 

this is assuming you've checked timing, vac lines, temp senders in the head etc...

 

~This is what i was told from the guy i bought the car off. How would you choke them down?

[davidwort 0]

I'd imagine the idle air bleed screw on the side of the throttle body was screwed right in, another indication of air leaks elsewhere.

[farrantino 0]

I'd imagine the idle air bleed screw on the side of the throttle body was screwed right in, another indication of air leaks elsewhere.

 

Sound promising, ok once ive replaced all vacuum hosses, how would i go about setting it back??

 

Thanks again

 

davidwort

[farrantino 0]

I have now fixed my rado lumpy idle problem davidwort, was right a dodgy vacuum hose and an idle reset, well happy now.

Just got to get her ready for the MOT.

 

Brakes

New headlight

Fogs

 

Thanks again for you time and advice :notworthy: