Coolant temp wire

[el_cappytan 0]

I've brought a rado shell recently to start my new 20v project but the engine loom has been kindly cut off and left!

 

The only wire i really need to find in for the coolant temp gauge as i'm running standalone management, could anyone give me any idea of the colour of wire i should be looking for? or if i can just pick up a signal straight from the back of the clocks? In which case which wire it is at that end.

 

Any info would be a major help :D

[smithy21 10]

did you ever get yur problem sorted? im having the same problem, i have no temp display on the clocks and need to find out which wire does what. cheers

[Album56 0]

I also have no temp display & am in the process of faulting it, albeit at quite a slow pace because of lack of time etc.

On my G60 gauge suddenly atarted reading low about 70c even when engine was very hot, & I have done a bit of preliminary testing starting with the black sensor which tests around 150 ohm when hot & appears to be ok, Also looking at the circuit board that the temp/fuel gauge mounts on both gauges have a common +10v supply so if the fuel gauge is ok we must assume that the temp gauge is getting a good 10v supply also. The brown wire at the black sensor plug should test earth into the loom & mine tests about 2ohms to earth which appears to be ok. I tried a spare gauge but that also read low.That only leaves the wire from the gauge to the black sensor which is yellow with a green stripe at the sensor plug end. I have not been able to prove further

yet because it will involve taking the whole binnacle out & getting to the multipin plug at the back. previous to my fault developing the dash had been moved/out for a new heater matrix a couple of months ago but everything was ok after that was done. Also more recently a new Alpine stereo has been fitted by Halfords. I am suspicious that the wire may have been damaged or a connector pulled apart behind the dash. The gauge has stopped reading altogether now I hope to find the fault in the next few weeks & fix it.

I'll try to keep this updated as I go.

Mick

[Album56 0]

Checked out some wiring info found on web. Temp gauge wire is on pin 23 of the multi-pin cluster plug & a yellow/red wire goes to U2/09 on the fuse box/wiring centre which is linked to G2/03 & then yellow/red wire goes to the black sensor so will check fuse box connections. Also there is mention of a relay 43 for low coolant sensor & coolant temp sensor, gauge control. Not even sure if there is a relay 43 in my car? Also I will check the colour of the wire at the black sensor because I thought it was yellow/green but it is very grubby so it could well be yellow/red.

Mick

[owen g60 10]

Mick.

Switch the plugs over on the 2 coolant sensors.

The blue sensor should have the yellow/green wire on it.

 

I suspect they are the wrong way round.

 

With the gauge now not reading I suspect that the blue sensor has failed highlighting this fault.

[Album56 0]

Hi Owen, I hope to get a look at this tomorrow, so will check out what you have highlighted. Thanks for the suggestion

Have you pulled that charger apart yet, I am interested to know what the internals are like because it had done about 130k miles with 68mm pulley without a re-build but apart from the original toothed belt having a few teeth missing appeared to be ok.

Cheers Mick

[Album56 0]

The yellow/green & brown wire is definitely the temp gauge plug its black & the ECU temp sensor plug is blue to match the colours of the sensors themselves.Proved the continuity of the yellow/green wire all the way from the sensor plug to pin 23 of the cluster plug & its fine. Tried a spare complete cluster that I have recently bought on ebay & it was the same

I re-tested the black sensor this morning with a cold engine it was reading 9k ohms so it looks like it might have been the sensor all along!!!!

It was just coincidence that it happened just after the new stereo was fitted, I put 2 & 2 together & made 5 it seems.

New sensor on order

Mick

[owen g60 10]

Mick

 

Glad you solved it.

 

The internals on your old charger were immaculate. Proof that they can be durable. The parts have been put to use now in getting my one back running.

[Album56 0]

Owen glad to hear the charger was good internally, I think leaving the boost return pipework intact but using a check valve in the ISV pipework, means that the oil vapour helps to prolong the life of the charger.

Good news

Edited December 5, 2013 by Album56

[Album56 0]

Black sensor replaced & temp gauge working again. Now I noticed a flat spot when really gunning it in 5th gear this afternoon & have just noticed the fuel pump is making a strange noise like a strangled mouse. Fuel filter has never been replaced so looks like fuel pump & filter need replacing. Going thro a phase of one problem after another at the moment but then the car is 20 years old with 165k miles on the clock & has been extremely reliable in the past.