fla 9 Posted July 25, 2010 Just installed the powerchip which has made a nice improvement in throttle response especailly lower down. The only problem is the idle is hunting, not really steady at all. And when you dip the clutch it almost cuts out. I have recently adjusted the dashpot (plus cleaned the ISV and throttle body, with the old ecu), and the throttle angle in VAGCOM is 12.7 degrees, i believe it shouldnt really go above 14 degrees? Any other suggestions to sort this out? I did a basic ecu reset (000 in basic settings, press go, press end. all after oil was at about 70C), but i might do that again tomorrow. Welcome any input. Thanks. Another point, where is oil temp in VAGCOM, i can only see coolant temp? EDIT- its a Powerchip, for reference, there is a thread on it here somewhere. I've editted the title accordingly, to avoid any confusion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abdul 0 Posted July 25, 2010 Just installed the superchip which has made a nice improvement in throttle response especailly lower down. The only problem is the idle is hunting, not really steady at all. And when you dip the clutch it almost cuts out. I have recently adjusted the dashpot (plus cleaned the ISV and throttle body, with the old ecu), and the throttle angle in VAGCOM is 12.7 degrees, i believe it shouldnt really go above 14 degrees? Any other suggestions to sort this out? I did a basic ecu reset (000 in basic settings, press go, press end. all after oil was at about 70C), but i might do that again tomorrow. Welcome any input. Thanks. Another point, where is oil temp in VAGCOM, i can only see coolant temp? I dont know the answer to any of your questions but seriously im coming to you to sort my slightly erratic idle lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted July 25, 2010 Have you tried physically unhooking the battery to reset it? Coolant temp is under measuring block in vagcom if i remember rightly. You have to do a scan first though.. i think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 25, 2010 you're more than welcome Abdul, not promising i can sort it out though, i dont really know too much, its more a question of tinkering with it... Gaz, i just opened the huge main connector, the one that unscrews, removed the old ecu and installed the new one with the chip in it. reconected the ecu and then re-closed the main connector, so perhaps undoing the battery wasnt necessary. Might be wrong though, its worth a try. Any other ideas anyone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 26, 2010 ok, no luck as such with the ecu, perhaps need more driving and then an ecu reset. Having said that, it never actaully cut out, although revs dropped right down on a few occasions. Very nippy now, a great improvement on before, just a little difficult to drive with the revs jumping around at low speeds. Apart from that, what else can be done through VAGCOM? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aki 0 Posted July 26, 2010 hi mine did that too when i put a chip in it! took a couple of days for the ecu to relearn the idle settings drove great but the idle was allover the place i put it down to disconnecting the battery and ecu andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 27, 2010 hi mine did that too when i put a chip in it! took a couple of days for the ecu to relearn the idle settings drove great but the idle was allover the place i put it down to disconnecting the battery and ecu andy Andy? Is it worth bumping up the dashpot screw to keep the throttle body open a little more to (hopefully) prevent it cutting out or will that put the ecu adaptation totally out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aki 0 Posted July 27, 2010 hi i didnt adjust anything at all as i figured the ecu is designed to adapt to keep a constant idle speed and its usually thidle control valve that causes the idle issues when its clogged up etc rather than the ecu and as id disconnected the ecu i knew it was going to have to learn everything again dont know why you would need to manually adjust the idle speed as the ecu will automatically do it for you (im assuming its a vr6?) just leave the electronics alone and they should sort themselves out as long as they are all working as they should hope this helps andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 28, 2010 thanks for that. Just took it for a drive yesterday, a mix of redline and town driving. It was cutting out pretty much at every junction at the beginning, but after the motorway run looks like its settled down. I did an ecu reset after the drive (fans came on just the once), and idle seemed a lot more stable. VAGCOM was showing it as 680rpm, throttle angle 13.3 degrees. I'll see how it goes today, should be better. Max oil temp was 100C even after some serious redlining, water was steady at 90C, although VAGCOM showed 99.6C, then again it was only about 19C in the evening. The chip has definitely changed the lower end characteristics of the engine, really nice and less sluggish, but i've got some cams to go in so i might just use them and get a remap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 28, 2010 The chip has bascially piled in a load more ignition advance as it's really low as standard! That will certainly make it feel more lively. I would run a log and record the knock measuring blocks though....ahhh...saying that, you're OBD1? I can't remember if OBD1 can record the knock blocks or not, don't think it can :? It was just to ensure the chip writer hadn't bundled in TOO MUCH advance under load, which can cause a lot of knock. Did you hear / notice any pinking on your redline runs? VAG-COM does not monitor oil temp mate. That's a sensor on the oil filter housing the ECU cannot see. Basically, anything the ECU has control over can be monitored, but with OBD1, that's a limited selection. For example you can't monitor Air Mass or knock activity. Vince will know the full itenary of what it can show you. OBD2 is what you want mate, MUCH better. I saw a kit for sale on here somewhere. The idle woes will almost certainly be down to something in the chip. Altered Idle valve PWM numbers, more advance in the idle cells, more fuel in the idle cells etc etc. It will take the ECU a while to adapt, so try and resist resetting it for a while :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites